silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Made an attempt to remove e- bolt from pulley. Whole assembly rotates as I try to remove the 19mm bolt. Am told to lay breaker bar on drivers side subframe. I'm abit sceptical and don't have air gun. Anybody have any success stories on removal of what Mazda shouldn't have put their to begin with? Also, does clutch pedal have to be floored during procedure?

Rpeck

I have removed it with the engine out of the car ... its one tight **** ... It was harder to get off on my engine than the flywheel bolt. Its only torqed at around 90 Lbs. but it has facory blue loctite all over it. You might try heat if its not to dangerous .. to weaken the loctite.

not sure about the clutch thing I did it during a rebuild.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanx anyway I may put a torch to the matter! Anybody else?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

yes clutch has to be held open.

scathcart

Remove the eshaft bolt by laying a breaker bar onto the frame and then pulling the EGI fuse, then bumping the ignition slightly.
It'll work even better with two spark plugs out.
Sean

copandengr

The reason behind holding the clutch pedal down is to help prevent the thrust bearings from moving out of place. The idea is with the clutch pedal down the eccentric shaft will be forced all the way forward, thereby "pinching" the thrust bearings to hold them in place.

This is only needed if you are removing the hub. If all you intend to do is remove the bolt to replace the bypass valve the bearings will not move out of place provided you do NOT turn the engine over, move the e-shaft pulley hub out, or hammer on the front area of the engine. The factory manual provides a measurement from the gasket surface of the e-shaft hub to the front of the e-shaft itself. If this measurement is greater than the amount specified the thrust bearings have slipped out of place. The only way to correct this problem is to remove the front engine cover and reposition the bearings.

Mazdatrix has a short article along with pics of the thrust bearings moving out of place and then being ruined when the bolt is tightened. Look on their web site FAQ section.

Henrik

It sounds like the motor is still in the car, so drive it down to your local gas station with a shop and pay the guy a few bucks to break it loose with an impact gun - trust me it'll be money well spent. Just tighten it back up with hand tools, drive home and remove with hand tools.

I wedged the clutch down while removing the bolt just to be safe. Dropping the spacer is only possible if you move the hub which you don't need to for the mod.

Henrik
87TII

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys I will do just as Henrik has suggested. God knows how much favors my mechanic owes me. So, with a 19mm air inpact gun I will get him to loosen It than take my FC home with me to do the swap. Will I expect oil to spurt out of the bolt when It comes loose? I figure I could go home to change my oil while not worrying about saturating my newly conditioned engine bay!

HAILERS

Have him hand wrench snug the bolt before you drive the car home. You don't want it loose as in hand loose.