or know of someone that can. See picture in next post>

Thanks

 

I know all the arguments on what is the best design, but I need one that is designed grab air from above the lid surface. The well where a NACA type would sink into is filled with my SakeBomb headlight housing.

 

Having been "grabbed" from above, where is the air to go?

 

I know, I know. Work with me here.

This is the FEED design for an FD. I'd be interested in getting one with broken tabs as well to use as parts to fab one up.

 

That style is called a "clam shell" vent. You can buy them from marine suppliers.

However, the underside ducting of the clam shell is going to be just about the same thing as a NACA style duct, so if a NACA will not fit your application then the clam shell will most likely not fit either. I think this is why clokker was asking where the air goes. If you have an obstruction then you may want a wider and flatter duct, or just move the duct to a different location.

 

http://www.rhdjapan.com/attain-aero-...fc3s-13b-20005

I've only seen these types. Not as large as the FD one you posted up.

 

Aviator credits me with more detailed knowledge of duct design than warranted, my interest is more prosaic.

What are you feeding (with a presumably properly aerodynamic scoop) that can afford to lose it's air source when the lights are in use?

 

There we go. That's what I'm looking for.

 

I have a fiberglass one I pulled off a car. You can pm me if you want pics so you can see the style hes talking about. (i dont use it... i think its silly)

 

Ok, lets try this one.

During the day ambient air is the hottest, any source of additional cooling air is an improvement no matter how small. At night ambient air is cooler, so source of cooling air isn't needed as much. Since overall air forced into the engine bay at night is cool, what cooling air lost when the headlight is up is offset.

 

none of my marine catalogs have those in fiberglass, but you can make one really easy cutting a piece of PVC pipe, and fiberglass bonds great to PVC

 

So, the answer we're looking for here is "nothing in particular".

 

The thermodynamics part is correct, but cooling the engine bay will have about as much effect on performance as cooling the spare tire. There are some exceptions to this, such as when wires are melting or paint is peeling, but otherwise there isn't much point. If the engine, turbo, or EMS components are overheating, then there are other ways to deal with it more effectively. If you just want a scoop because you like the looks, then I see nothing wrong with that. Just be advised that the ricer aftermarket vendors make a big deal out of "underhood temps" in order to sell you their overpriced merchandise.

 

Not underhood temps in general I'm looking to deal with. Income air temp to my Mariah cold air box is the issue. A very small area blocked off from the rest of the engine bay.

Clearly a little scoop on a headlight cover isn't going to make much difference to overall engine bay temps. Come on now.

 

Dont know if that shape flows with a fc

 

You are looking for a vent, not a scoop. Increasing air pressure under the hood, will decrease engine cooling by making the radiator less effective. Radiators needs pressure differential to work. That little scoop won't be a big deal, but still, in theory it has negative effect. A vent would be more effective removing engine bay heat and decreasing pressure behind the radiator, making it more effective.

Riz.

 

I repeat:

Not underhood temps in general I'm looking to deal with. Income air temp to my Mariah cold air box is the issue. A very small area blocked off from the rest of the engine bay.

 

Sorry, missed that part. :-p Wondering how you would like to duct it. You can get ambient air from anywhere in the front, why go for a hard to duct area that looses fuction when you switch your headlights on?

Riz.

 

the intake for my 3 rotor was right there by the right headlight, and with the moulding removed and the headlights on, the intake air temp does drop a little (2-3 degrees C)

since the headlight lid has so much stuff under it, maybe its just easier to bend the back down? just make the gap between the headlight lid and the hood bigger?

 

you have to cut the backside of the housing, and also the hood seal, the hood seal actually keeps any air from getting through even if you do have a scoop.

 

Backside is already cut, hood seal has was removed a long time ago.

However, the FTP's are still the originals. nudge nudge