Well, I just ordered the full DIY Wideband o2 sensor from Techedge-
Anyone had any experience building one yet?
I've never done a PCB before....
Hey- They also now have Prebuilt units!!! They are still MUCH cheaper than any other ones on the market.
I think 90 bucks US for the computer, and 75 US for the Display- 150 for a Honda 02 sensor.
The DIY kit is only about 30 US plus 150 for the 02 sensor.

Anyone used one on an N/A? What's the best ratio for power people have found?

I'll let everyone know how it goes.- But I am going to the Dominican for a week first!

 

I'm pretty sure you need a proper wide-band oxy sensor, OEM ones won't work

 

some honda o2 sensors are 5v 5 wire wideband type sensors, however.......

its not the sensor which is the key, its the electronics that are converting the O2 sensor's voltage to the A/F Ratio.

wideband systems are like EFi systems, YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET

 

I've looked at the schematics- and hey, do a search on this sensor- the circuitry is VERY accurate, especially at stoich and above- right where it shoud be.
You pay for what you get, well, ya, I totally believe that (almost to a fault) ,especially auto parts- (ever buy an exhaust for an rx7?) BUT-you have to watch out for "specialty" items..... What may be "specialty" to the wrenching industry may be run of the mill to the electronics industry. It's the guy that have the companies that link it together that make a killing!!!! This happens in EVERY field!!! (sports, hobby, anything!)
Even seen a rotary shop charge 700 bucks for 3mm seals?!?! I have- It's definately out there. You go to a machine shop, where they do that stuff a hunded times a day, and they will charge you max about 100 bucks. Same concept. (trust me- I've been there)
BTW the sensor the electronics are desgined for are the 95 "lean burn" calif spec cars.
It's cheap because, um, you put it together yourself!
Cool.
Dan.

 

mate mate mate

lets go thru a few basics. its not the sensor its the electronics.

i dont BUY an exhuast for an RX7, i go to a mechanic i trust who is handy with a welder and has 3inch piping and manderal bends and get him to fabricate an exhuast up for my rx7. and it cost a grand total of $160US

3mm seals are only needed if the rotors are too worn to get the right clearances for 2mm seals, 3 mm seals will still crack with detonation like 2mm seals do, there is just a tad more 'safety' in it.

3mm seals in a n/a - thats defeating the purpose, 2mm seals can handle higher RPM than 3mm seals, so its like taking a step backwards

When tuning a rotary, anything leaner than stoich on a piston engine are next to useless, you need values between 10.5:1 and 13.5:1

are you tuning for emissions or for peak power/engine life? they are two very different things.......

 

does Techedge have a website?

 

Man, keep us posted on your findings! I am in the same boat I suppose. I know how to work with small electronic stuff. But no PCB expereince.

James

 

http://ntserver.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/

That's the website.


HWO.. I beleive we have a miscommunication here....

1- I agree with you that it's the software in the PIC chip that is crucial. Never said I didn't- but stock o2 sensors are useless because their output changes so much with heat differences.

2-I was using the exhuast and 3mm grooving as EXAMPLES of product cossover/specialization.
I made my own exhaust too, I would never buy one, but havn't you noticed that the cheaper exhausts like pacesetter will burn out quickly, whereas a stainless system at over double the price will last much longer.
This isn't an argument over the use of 3mm seals. The only reason I have them is because my engine carbon locked, and deformed the seal seat to the point where it was useless to hold a 2mm seal. I am also going turbo. But again, I was just using it as an example. I could have used anything- How bout a replacement leather boot from MOMO at 75 bucks? Go to a leather shop and they'll make you one for 20.

3-Of course values below stoich are usless. That's what I said- The circuitry of this PCB biases accuarcy from stoich and richer as opposed to below.

And the tuning I'm doing is for power- at the limit before detonation. Leaning it out primarilly. This will yeild lower emmisions as well (HC anyways, NOX may be a little higher due to higher combustion temps)
The dyno will tell.

 

you do realise that stoich on a rotary is around 12.7:1, which rich not lean.

 

So, to dig this up from the dead. Bambam, did you ever get it working?

James

 

Yeah,
Did you Bambam?
Charles

 

Youre a bit confused. In ANY gas engine, stoich is 14.7. Stoich is NOT where an engine makes the most power. Stoich is simply the point where there is exactly enough fuel for the amount of air in the chamber.

But dont get me wrong, I know where rotaries like their mixture. About 11.5-12.5 is generally accepted for maximum hp with maximum reliability on a turbo rotary.

 

The link changed. Find it now at:

http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/default.htm