Do you perform your own rebuild???
07-30-01, 12:44 AM
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Do you perform your own rebuild???
Any of you guys done your rebuild??..How hard is it to rebuild a 13B with a help of a Overhaul video and a shop manual????
07-30-01, 08:18 PM
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Overhauling a Rex
The main thing that is done when overhauling a rotary engine is a detailed cleaning and inspection of the parts. It is not difficult, but I would say it is time consuming, tedious and cannot be shortcut. There is very little, if any, machine work needed.
At a minimum, you will need a decent assortment of metric hand tools. Of primary importance among these are measuring tools. A good quality feeler gauge which is cheap enough, plus a dial caliper and the proper micrometers are essential. You will also need a torque wrench.
I highly recommend the overhaul video produced by Bruce Turrentine. It is an invaluable aid to an experienced mechanic, and indespensable to a novice. I would not even consider tearing into a rotary for the first time without it. It is @29.95 and is available at a web site called Real World Solutions. Try www.rotaryaviation.com The aftermarket shop manuals are nowhere as good as the factory manual available from a Mazda dealer or Mazdatrix.
I would recommend you purchase the video and view it BEFORE you tear down your engine. There are some things you need to do while tearing down the engine in order to make the overhaul more efficient and cost effective.
Other than that, the best piece of advice I can gice is to take your time, and enjoy the experience.
At a minimum, you will need a decent assortment of metric hand tools. Of primary importance among these are measuring tools. A good quality feeler gauge which is cheap enough, plus a dial caliper and the proper micrometers are essential. You will also need a torque wrench.
I highly recommend the overhaul video produced by Bruce Turrentine. It is an invaluable aid to an experienced mechanic, and indespensable to a novice. I would not even consider tearing into a rotary for the first time without it. It is @29.95 and is available at a web site called Real World Solutions. Try www.rotaryaviation.com The aftermarket shop manuals are nowhere as good as the factory manual available from a Mazda dealer or Mazdatrix.
I would recommend you purchase the video and view it BEFORE you tear down your engine. There are some things you need to do while tearing down the engine in order to make the overhaul more efficient and cost effective.
Other than that, the best piece of advice I can gice is to take your time, and enjoy the experience.
07-30-01, 09:40 PM
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Re: Overhauling a Rex
Originally posted by copandengr
The main thing that is done when overhauling a rotary engine is a detailed cleaning and inspection of the parts. It is not difficult, but I would say it is time consuming, tedious and cannot be shortcut. There is very little, if any, machine work needed.
At a minimum, you will need a decent assortment of metric hand tools. Of primary importance among these are measuring tools. A good quality feeler gauge which is cheap enough, plus a dial caliper and the proper micrometers are essential. You will also need a torque wrench.
I highly recommend the overhaul video produced by Bruce Turrentine. It is an invaluable aid to an experienced mechanic, and indespensable to a novice. I would not even consider tearing into a rotary for the first time without it. It is @29.95 and is available at a web site called Real World Solutions. Try www.rotaryaviation.com The aftermarket shop manuals are nowhere as good as the factory manual available from a Mazda dealer or Mazdatrix.
I would recommend you purchase the video and view it BEFORE you tear down your engine. There are some things you need to do while tearing down the engine in order to make the overhaul more efficient and cost effective.
Other than that, the best piece of advice I can gice is to take your time, and enjoy the experience.
The main thing that is done when overhauling a rotary engine is a detailed cleaning and inspection of the parts. It is not difficult, but I would say it is time consuming, tedious and cannot be shortcut. There is very little, if any, machine work needed.
At a minimum, you will need a decent assortment of metric hand tools. Of primary importance among these are measuring tools. A good quality feeler gauge which is cheap enough, plus a dial caliper and the proper micrometers are essential. You will also need a torque wrench.
I highly recommend the overhaul video produced by Bruce Turrentine. It is an invaluable aid to an experienced mechanic, and indespensable to a novice. I would not even consider tearing into a rotary for the first time without it. It is @29.95 and is available at a web site called Real World Solutions. Try www.rotaryaviation.com The aftermarket shop manuals are nowhere as good as the factory manual available from a Mazda dealer or Mazdatrix.
I would recommend you purchase the video and view it BEFORE you tear down your engine. There are some things you need to do while tearing down the engine in order to make the overhaul more efficient and cost effective.
Other than that, the best piece of advice I can gice is to take your time, and enjoy the experience.
The video on the other hand is what's giving me the push to do the rebuild myself. After watching the video, i was like "hey!..i think i can do the rebuild myself!"..Ive also torn apart two of my old motors for self knowledge!
The engine parts im going to be using are brand new!!!..brand new ROTOR HOUSINGS, SIDE HOUSINGS, GASKETS, & APEX SEALS.
Some new performance parts will also be installed along the way such as flywheel and clutch. I CANT WAIT!!!...
The only thing i need to measure and clean now is the rotors and E-shaft.
What do you guys think of that ESHAFT mod?..when BRUCE did something with the OIL JET?!?!..
07-30-01, 10:29 PM
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there are many people who have rebuilt a rotary without the video go for it! you should get new rotor housings apex and side seals, and then inspect the rest. most side housings are good.
have fun
mike
have fun
mike
07-31-01, 12:16 PM
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Oil Jet Mod
Do not do the modification for the eccentric shaft oil jets UNLESS you are building an engine that will spend very little, if any time at idle. You will end up with 10 to 15 lbs. oil pressure at idle like I did.
This mod is designed to increase the flow of oil through the rotors for cooling purposes. Removing the spring and check ball will cause the oil pressure to hover at arould 10 to 15 lbs, when the engine is hot because the oil pump does not have the volume to overcome the increased flow that is the result of the mod. The spring and check ball serve to stop the flow of oil through the rotors at idle because it is not needed then.
I did it and I wish I had not.
This mod is designed to increase the flow of oil through the rotors for cooling purposes. Removing the spring and check ball will cause the oil pressure to hover at arould 10 to 15 lbs, when the engine is hot because the oil pump does not have the volume to overcome the increased flow that is the result of the mod. The spring and check ball serve to stop the flow of oil through the rotors at idle because it is not needed then.
I did it and I wish I had not.
07-31-01, 09:44 PM
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Re: Oil Jet Mod
Originally posted by copandengr
Do not do the modification for the eccentric shaft oil jets UNLESS you are building an engine that will spend very little, if any time at idle. You will end up with 10 to 15 lbs. oil pressure at idle like I did.
This mod is designed to increase the flow of oil through the rotors for cooling purposes. Removing the spring and check ball will cause the oil pressure to hover at arould 10 to 15 lbs, when the engine is hot because the oil pump does not have the volume to overcome the increased flow that is the result of the mod. The spring and check ball serve to stop the flow of oil through the rotors at idle because it is not needed then.
I did it and I wish I had not.
Do not do the modification for the eccentric shaft oil jets UNLESS you are building an engine that will spend very little, if any time at idle. You will end up with 10 to 15 lbs. oil pressure at idle like I did.
This mod is designed to increase the flow of oil through the rotors for cooling purposes. Removing the spring and check ball will cause the oil pressure to hover at arould 10 to 15 lbs, when the engine is hot because the oil pump does not have the volume to overcome the increased flow that is the result of the mod. The spring and check ball serve to stop the flow of oil through the rotors at idle because it is not needed then.
I did it and I wish I had not.
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07-31-01, 09:47 PM
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
there are many people who have rebuilt a rotary without the video go for it! you should get new rotor housings apex and side seals, and then inspect the rest. most side housings are good.
have fun
mike
there are many people who have rebuilt a rotary without the video go for it! you should get new rotor housings apex and side seals, and then inspect the rest. most side housings are good.
have fun
mike
As far as parts. I will use the same old rotors from the previous motor, NEW side housings, rotor housings, gaskets, & apex seals. The rest will be measured and thoroughly cleaned.
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