Do open 6th ports cause starting problems?
Do open 6th ports cause starting problems?
I'm in the process of working out some electric 6th port magic (based on the RotaryResurrection electric 6th port page), and was considering tying the starter signal into the actuator so the ports are actuated during starting in an RX-8 style "Keep 'em freed up" procedure.
Will this cause any starting problems? They would snap open during cranking, and closed upon release of the starter. I don't *think* it would cause issues, but I thought I'd check.
-=Russ=-
Will this cause any starting problems? They would snap open during cranking, and closed upon release of the starter. I don't *think* it would cause issues, but I thought I'd check.
-=Russ=-
there might be a decrease in air velocity with them open which could I guess in theory make it a little harder to start as well as the longer duration bleeding off a pressure for the combustion proccess. but don't know how much of a differenc that could make
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That's kind of what I was looking for. Thanks! I've played with opening mine manually during idle, and it doesn't seem to affect anything (RPM surges for a second or so, then settles back in), so I didn't think it would affect starting, but it's good to hear that people have no problems with it.
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
Originally Posted by H4Inf
^ Indeed. First and second gear ratio's altered to counter that heh... Previous owner did it. Point is though it still starts fine 

Originally Posted by Kenteth
Are yourunning a modified 1st gen or 2nd gen tranny?

Would it not have to be a 2nd gen to match the engine?
Cheers and sorry for hijacking the thread a bit, but you do have your answer
1st gen and 2nd gen n/a 5spds are about the same. I'm finding it hard to believe anyone would bother changing the gear ratios. Unless they are miata gears, I think somoene would pay out the *** for custom gears... Not to mention it takes more than standard tools to swap the gears out, which means unless he owns his own shop, he wouldn't have done it. And if he did have his own shop, he surely wouldn't have just wired the things open, he would have properly fixed them. :/
The ratios have been changed, Below 3000rpm it is pretty shocking, but once your past there, BAM your at the redline in no time.
The valves for 5th and 6th have been removed, and where the actuators are meant to be, it's all welded up..
Nice job eh.. Added bonus, they welded the UIM to LIM.
Dont believe me ? :P
The valves for 5th and 6th have been removed, and where the actuators are meant to be, it's all welded up..
Nice job eh.. Added bonus, they welded the UIM to LIM.Dont believe me ? :P
Originally Posted by H4Inf
The ratios have been changed, Below 3000rpm it is pretty shocking, but once your past there, BAM your at the redline in no time.
The valves for 5th and 6th have been removed, and where the actuators are meant to be, it's all welded up..
Nice job eh.. Added bonus, they welded the UIM to LIM.
Dont believe me ? :P
The valves for 5th and 6th have been removed, and where the actuators are meant to be, it's all welded up..
Nice job eh.. Added bonus, they welded the UIM to LIM.Dont believe me ? :P
Originally Posted by Syonyk
Um... there are easier ways to fix a vacuum leak... Though I guess their method is pretty much forever. Who *really* needs to separate the UIM & LIM anyway?
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
PS. What is that plate bolted onto the LIM (lower left corner of the pic above) ?
Cheers
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