Do I really need my oil cooler today??
11-10-07, 11:45 AM
#27
Wait, what? You're actually gonna drive the thing? The oil cooler handles almost all your rotor and rotor bearing cooling. The coolant cools the housing, not the rotor. Don't drive for more than a couple minutes without an oil cooler. You might as well ask, "Hey, I still have the oil cooler, can I drive without a radiator"? You're asking for instant disaster. And I don't think the oil pressure gauge will be much of a help for detecting overheated oil. If you've driven already I'd change your oil, on the chance that it got too hot. That could make the oil break down and destroy your rotor bearing, etc.
I dunno, but this sounds like it will be "new motor time", after not too long. Does your mechanic understand the differences between a piston and rotary engine? Oil coolers aren't essential to piston engines.
I dunno, but this sounds like it will be "new motor time", after not too long. Does your mechanic understand the differences between a piston and rotary engine? Oil coolers aren't essential to piston engines.
Last edited by ericgrau; 11-10-07 at 11:52 AM.
11-10-07, 11:59 AM
#28
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Dude seriously...as rotaryres said...when your oil cooler or lines go, you have (I think less thatn) 30 secs and your motor is GONE. Watching oil pressure is not a cure. By the time you notice your oil pressure drop, your motor will be bye bye. Seriously.
And as a second thought...although I dont have a high post count, I've been a member for several years and it never amazes me the way members step up to help. Offers of oil coolers and lines shipped for cheap. Man I love this place
And as a second thought...although I dont have a high post count, I've been a member for several years and it never amazes me the way members step up to help. Offers of oil coolers and lines shipped for cheap. Man I love this place
11-10-07, 07:11 PM
#29
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Yeah, I really appreciate this forum, it has truly been essential for my rotary learnnin'! i haven't bought anything from the forum yet, but I have found parts quicker and cheaper offered than any parts store...
i learned a great deal on the Wankel at school and in the shop, but never owned one, it really is an intimate relationship between car and owner, much more than any 4 banger! I might as well be driving a rolls...but try to get your insurance payments under $50 a month LOL.
BTW ericgrau I AM running my oil cooler, I just have a splice in the line from the metal fittings, the splice is made of high pressure oil line and is double clamped down and glued to boot, and it is in such a position that it is 'wedged' between the two fittings so it really can't go anywhere, and I am not watching just the pressure I am watching my coolant temp as well, which I know isn't the OIL temp, but if the motor was overheating I should know, NEVER THE LESS....
I AM NOT DRIVING IT- MUCH...sorry, can't lie, but it HAS had about 45 minutes of motor time on this hose and has held fine, but like I said
I AM TRYING NOT TO DRIVE IT, I am off work tomorrow so that's good, and I have at least two days off next week, and I am in the process of getting new lines and arranging the tools for the job.
now, my next question is do I have to pull the motor off the mounts to get this new line on? that was the problem before, it was leaking at the coupling on the front cover after the install and they couldn't get the old line off intact and hence we have the splice, and he said that replacing the line meant AT MINIMUM taking the power steering and fan and shroud and engine bracket off and may require jacking up the motor? is there a good reference on how to do this job? Thanks!
i learned a great deal on the Wankel at school and in the shop, but never owned one, it really is an intimate relationship between car and owner, much more than any 4 banger! I might as well be driving a rolls...but try to get your insurance payments under $50 a month LOL.
BTW ericgrau I AM running my oil cooler, I just have a splice in the line from the metal fittings, the splice is made of high pressure oil line and is double clamped down and glued to boot, and it is in such a position that it is 'wedged' between the two fittings so it really can't go anywhere, and I am not watching just the pressure I am watching my coolant temp as well, which I know isn't the OIL temp, but if the motor was overheating I should know, NEVER THE LESS....
I AM NOT DRIVING IT- MUCH...sorry, can't lie, but it HAS had about 45 minutes of motor time on this hose and has held fine, but like I said
I AM TRYING NOT TO DRIVE IT, I am off work tomorrow so that's good, and I have at least two days off next week, and I am in the process of getting new lines and arranging the tools for the job.
now, my next question is do I have to pull the motor off the mounts to get this new line on? that was the problem before, it was leaking at the coupling on the front cover after the install and they couldn't get the old line off intact and hence we have the splice, and he said that replacing the line meant AT MINIMUM taking the power steering and fan and shroud and engine bracket off and may require jacking up the motor? is there a good reference on how to do this job? Thanks!
11-10-07, 08:48 PM
#30
You dont have to remove anything but the under belly tray and fan/shroud to change the cooler lines. Go ahead and buy yourself a cheap walmart adjustable wrench, about a 6"-8" version, you will need this to grind thinner and make fit the compression fitting on the front cover. I have one that I use for this purpose alone. Youll also need another, beefier 10-12" one for the same fitting. Also have 2 3' breaker bars that will fit over your 2 wrenches, then the compression fitting comes right apart if you have the wrenches adjusted tight enough.
If it absolutely won't come apart, then cut the line right behind the compression fitting and unscrew both parts, and just get another fitting that goes on the front cover and use it.
The other 3 connections are simple banjo bolts, though they are usually extremely tight and require a breaker bar/impact/12" ratchet and a swift kick from a size 13 boot.
I have a used set of oil cooler lines I will sell you for 20 shipped if you need. I could come up with the front cover fitting as well, if it comes to that for you.
If it absolutely won't come apart, then cut the line right behind the compression fitting and unscrew both parts, and just get another fitting that goes on the front cover and use it.
The other 3 connections are simple banjo bolts, though they are usually extremely tight and require a breaker bar/impact/12" ratchet and a swift kick from a size 13 boot.
I have a used set of oil cooler lines I will sell you for 20 shipped if you need. I could come up with the front cover fitting as well, if it comes to that for you.
11-10-07, 08:54 PM
#31
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Thanks for the advice! Any torque specs I could get from you? Also, when you say grind it, would I grind the solid piece or the slider? I can probably remove this without the need for the ground down wrench, will I need it for reinstall too? thanks!
