kudu

I'm in the middle of swapping out my stock 6-port NA motor for a full bridge Tii 4 port that is carbed, and I knew I was going to go with DLIDFIS since I'm able to use to FC ignition coils that are already on the car. While clearancing my seals and thinking about the setup I had the realization that I'm not sure how to go about doing DLIDFIS on an FC since there's always done on a first gen using the first gen harness. My questions are A. how do a go about this lol. Like do I need to somehow use a PCM from a first gen to make this work which I have a harness and PCM from an '85 GSL I have laying around. Or do I using just normal ignition coils from a first gen and wire those up in a way that is utilized? I'm open to anything just a little stumped on how to go about this.

Did a little more research and asking around and found it may be easiest for my to run a late 12a or GSLSE distributor that have the electronic pickups in it and run two coils off of that. I'm still open to suggestions if anyone has any other ideas though.

Also with getting the tach to work. I know that tack signal is ran off of the trailing coil to the yellow wire with the blue stripe. Would it work if I ran a wire off of the trailing coil from a setup like the first gen and just pin the wire into the connector at that yellow with a blue stripe wire or is there another way to do it?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i might be wrong, but what i think you'll have to do is wire up the distributor. you can get some giuidance from RAD Potential with that:


after wiring it up, then you'll probably just follow the instructions for the 2Gxxxx (i don't remember the initials, but the Gen 2 version of DLIDFIS). there should be a writeup somewhere in the Gen 1 forum since it uses the Gen 2 coils.

Kellis

iTrader: (4)

I had a 1st gen style DLIDFIS setup on my carbed FC for a little bit. It was pretty easy to wire up from scratch. I used a GSLSE dizzy with the pickups wired directly to the inputs for a set of HEI ignitors, wired to MSD blaster coils. The yellow tach wire was directly connected to the negative terminal of the trailing coil and worked fine.

However, if your engine harness is intact I'd recommend buying a standalone ECU for use in ignition only mode. The only sensors you need for that are the CAS and a vacuum signal, the rest aren't important for the timing maps. A Megasquirt 2 or Microsquirt can run your stock coils in this configuration, and provides more flexibility down the road. By the time you buy the parts for the dizzy swap you might be at 50% of the cost of a standalone, with more reliable, accurate, and customizable timing control. That's the road I ended up taking after having a few ignitors go bad due to insufficient heat sinking (they get hot).