DIY: FC S4 RX7 aftermarket alarm PnP harness
#1
DIY: FC S4 RX7 aftermarket alarm PnP harness
Hello RX7Club. I wanted to share some information I put together earlier this year to help S4 owners create a PnP aftermarket alarm/keyless solution for the FC. This solution allows you to install a system that is modular just like the factory unit, and is 100% PnP (with the exception of the antenna for the wireless keyfob of course); this even includes integration of the factory security light, which I think is a nice touch. The goal is factory integration as much as possible. This is why, for example, I opt to use relays to drive factory horns instead of the stupid aftermarket sirens.
Why are you doing this? You're teaching thieves how to disable our alarms and steal our cars!
These cars are over 30 years old, and it's no secret that the factory alarm was relatively easy to access if you knew where to look. Alarms keep honest people honest. If a thief really wants to steal your car, they're going to do it regardless of if you have an alarm or not. I wanted to add keyless entry, and since the factory already provisioned for an alarm, I wanted to integrate and take advantage of that. I'm tired of seeing cars getting hacked up by people who have very little electrical competence; there is no need to cut into the factory harness, period.
Below you will find a diagram detailing the factory alarm pinout, for both the vehicle harness side as well as the factory module side. The diagram is color coded to match the vehicle wiring, as well as "standard" alarm colors based on the DEI color standard. Some vehicle wire colors may be different if you have a convertible; go by the pinout and reference the FSM is you have question or concern.
Where is the factory alarm/provision?
Under the glovebox/behind the passenger knee panel. The OEM brain will be bolted to this panel, if your car is equipped. If not, you will see a 17 pin female connector clipped to the HVAC box. This harness points upwards, towards the glovebox, which makes it difficult to access by those looking to unplug the alarm without removal of the glovebox.
How do I add keyless entry?
You only need to add one door lock actuator, in the driver's side door, if you have a model with a "follow me" lock system; this system would lock/unlock the passenger door when the driver's door was physically locked/unlocked. If you do not have a follow me system, then simply add an additional actuator in the passenger door, which can be driven in parallel with the driver's actuator. It should be noted that wiring needs to be run into the driver's door to make this connection.
The actuator(s) will be driven by a relay module (451M in this case); the DEI brand makes this very easy as the 451M has a control harness that plugs into the brain. If you are not using a DEI brand product, the diagram still makes it very clear what needs to be done.
*Note, you can get a "passenger" door lock actuator from a RHD car, which will bolt right in to your LHD driver's door if you are going for that ultimate factory look and feel. I used the proper mating connector to make this PnP in the door, adding another junction inside the cabin (for serviceability if the door needs to be removed), and another junction at the alarm brain. This kind of attention to detail truly is OEM inspired!
What parts do I need?
- TE 172773 (14-20awg female pin)
- TE 172500 (17 pin plug housing)
- 1N400x diodes for diode isolating hatch/hood pins into a single trigger input
- SuperBrightLEDs part # 74-AHP to replace the incandescent bulb for the factory security light
- relay(s)
- Optional 451M relay module and door lock actuators, if desired
Where do I cram all this stuff? Especially the relays?
I sacrificed the OEM brain housing to mount my aftermarket brain in the exactly same way. If you remove the speaker pod there is also a screw boss that can be used to secure your relays.
I have attached a clip of how good the security light looks when flashing with the LED.
Please read all notes on the diagram carefully to understand what/why is being done.
When finished, this install will be 100% invisible, reversible, and you'll feel good you didn't hack up your FC with a butchered alarm install .
Why are you doing this? You're teaching thieves how to disable our alarms and steal our cars!
These cars are over 30 years old, and it's no secret that the factory alarm was relatively easy to access if you knew where to look. Alarms keep honest people honest. If a thief really wants to steal your car, they're going to do it regardless of if you have an alarm or not. I wanted to add keyless entry, and since the factory already provisioned for an alarm, I wanted to integrate and take advantage of that. I'm tired of seeing cars getting hacked up by people who have very little electrical competence; there is no need to cut into the factory harness, period.
Below you will find a diagram detailing the factory alarm pinout, for both the vehicle harness side as well as the factory module side. The diagram is color coded to match the vehicle wiring, as well as "standard" alarm colors based on the DEI color standard. Some vehicle wire colors may be different if you have a convertible; go by the pinout and reference the FSM is you have question or concern.
Where is the factory alarm/provision?
Under the glovebox/behind the passenger knee panel. The OEM brain will be bolted to this panel, if your car is equipped. If not, you will see a 17 pin female connector clipped to the HVAC box. This harness points upwards, towards the glovebox, which makes it difficult to access by those looking to unplug the alarm without removal of the glovebox.
How do I add keyless entry?
You only need to add one door lock actuator, in the driver's side door, if you have a model with a "follow me" lock system; this system would lock/unlock the passenger door when the driver's door was physically locked/unlocked. If you do not have a follow me system, then simply add an additional actuator in the passenger door, which can be driven in parallel with the driver's actuator. It should be noted that wiring needs to be run into the driver's door to make this connection.
The actuator(s) will be driven by a relay module (451M in this case); the DEI brand makes this very easy as the 451M has a control harness that plugs into the brain. If you are not using a DEI brand product, the diagram still makes it very clear what needs to be done.
*Note, you can get a "passenger" door lock actuator from a RHD car, which will bolt right in to your LHD driver's door if you are going for that ultimate factory look and feel. I used the proper mating connector to make this PnP in the door, adding another junction inside the cabin (for serviceability if the door needs to be removed), and another junction at the alarm brain. This kind of attention to detail truly is OEM inspired!
What parts do I need?
- TE 172773 (14-20awg female pin)
- TE 172500 (17 pin plug housing)
- 1N400x diodes for diode isolating hatch/hood pins into a single trigger input
- SuperBrightLEDs part # 74-AHP to replace the incandescent bulb for the factory security light
- relay(s)
- Optional 451M relay module and door lock actuators, if desired
Where do I cram all this stuff? Especially the relays?
I sacrificed the OEM brain housing to mount my aftermarket brain in the exactly same way. If you remove the speaker pod there is also a screw boss that can be used to secure your relays.
I have attached a clip of how good the security light looks when flashing with the LED.
Please read all notes on the diagram carefully to understand what/why is being done.
When finished, this install will be 100% invisible, reversible, and you'll feel good you didn't hack up your FC with a butchered alarm install .
Last edited by DC5Daniel; 05-27-20 at 12:23 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by DC5Daniel:
savanna.seven (05-27-20),
themerchant (10-15-23)
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