In dire need of help!....
10-01-05, 01:51 AM
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In dire need of help!....
i will try to make this short, but i doubt it will be.... here goes....
i put my car on the dyno a few dayz ago because it was running like **** and i wanted it to be fixed, well.... my baseline run was terrible.... scattered everywhere and wouldnt revv past 6000rpm, it would bob there for a few secs then SLOWLY climb again....
after 6-7runs and tuning my FCON with the GCC and my Greddy profecB specII i got it to pull smothly and have a nice curve....
well.... i was driving around and the pre-dyno symptoms were still there, hesitate when i get on the gas, sputter a bit and all, but it DIDNT on the dyno, ( mustang dyno by the way )....
so i drive around for a few nights and my car is still, pretty bad.... so i get it into the shop today and what the guy says is that he took my car out for a spin and it was pinging ( PINGING!, MY HEART NEARLY STOPPED!... ) when he boosted in 3rd and 4th, i nearly died....
well on the dyno i tuned for 11.5:1 AF accross the board at 9.56psi ( ok ok, 10psi ).... i was wondering, i was checking my PEAK log and it read 12.5psi as the last boost recorded, and he said it was pinging at 6000rpm, could there be any relation to the hesitation at first and now this sudden pinging?, are my AF ratio's too low?...
i have some idea's what could be wrong, after hours of thinking, i doubt i'm right....
i heard the ignition coils are sensitive and should ALWAYS be virtical, mine are horizontal, the shop put them that way after installing the intercooler....
mabe i need to re-wire my fuel pump for 12volts?...
i cant remember what else, it's 1am, basically this is an intermitent thing, will be off and on, off and on.... sometimes if i revv in neutral it wont go past 4500rpm and feels like a redline, then black smoke comes out the exhaust....
sorry this wasnt short, tried to give any/all details i could remember, i'll post more as i remember them....
HELP!...
oh yeah, one more thing, at 6000rpm on my dyno chart the AF bounces too 12:1 then goes back to normal....
i put my car on the dyno a few dayz ago because it was running like **** and i wanted it to be fixed, well.... my baseline run was terrible.... scattered everywhere and wouldnt revv past 6000rpm, it would bob there for a few secs then SLOWLY climb again....
after 6-7runs and tuning my FCON with the GCC and my Greddy profecB specII i got it to pull smothly and have a nice curve....
well.... i was driving around and the pre-dyno symptoms were still there, hesitate when i get on the gas, sputter a bit and all, but it DIDNT on the dyno, ( mustang dyno by the way )....
so i drive around for a few nights and my car is still, pretty bad.... so i get it into the shop today and what the guy says is that he took my car out for a spin and it was pinging ( PINGING!, MY HEART NEARLY STOPPED!... ) when he boosted in 3rd and 4th, i nearly died....
well on the dyno i tuned for 11.5:1 AF accross the board at 9.56psi ( ok ok, 10psi ).... i was wondering, i was checking my PEAK log and it read 12.5psi as the last boost recorded, and he said it was pinging at 6000rpm, could there be any relation to the hesitation at first and now this sudden pinging?, are my AF ratio's too low?...
i have some idea's what could be wrong, after hours of thinking, i doubt i'm right....
i heard the ignition coils are sensitive and should ALWAYS be virtical, mine are horizontal, the shop put them that way after installing the intercooler....
mabe i need to re-wire my fuel pump for 12volts?...
i cant remember what else, it's 1am, basically this is an intermitent thing, will be off and on, off and on.... sometimes if i revv in neutral it wont go past 4500rpm and feels like a redline, then black smoke comes out the exhaust....
sorry this wasnt short, tried to give any/all details i could remember, i'll post more as i remember them....
HELP!...
oh yeah, one more thing, at 6000rpm on my dyno chart the AF bounces too 12:1 then goes back to normal....
Last edited by Archangels; 10-01-05 at 02:04 AM.
10-01-05, 02:00 AM
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Ignition breakup, too much timing, or a bad fuel delivery... I'd wager one of those! I'm sure you checked all your sensors/etc to make sure they're working properly?
10-01-05, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Ignition breakup, too much timing, or a bad fuel delivery... I'd wager one of those! I'm sure you checked all your sensors/etc to make sure they're working properly?
i was leaning towards ignition break up and/or fuel delivery....
i talked to a few people tonight and those were the most common idea's....
for some reason i'm leaning towards my fuel pump not having the right voltage....
10-01-05, 02:10 AM
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i added this just after you guys posted aswell....
"oh yeah, one more thing, at 6000rpm on my dyno chart the AF bounces too 12:1 then goes back to normal...."
the guy at the shop was saying that it was odd to only see my AF guage in the stoich, but on the dyno it was pulling mid 11's....
with exception to the 12 dip....
"oh yeah, one more thing, at 6000rpm on my dyno chart the AF bounces too 12:1 then goes back to normal...."
the guy at the shop was saying that it was odd to only see my AF guage in the stoich, but on the dyno it was pulling mid 11's....
with exception to the 12 dip....
10-01-05, 02:19 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Sure the wideband was working properly?
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10-01-05, 03:28 AM
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if that helps at all to distinguish a problem....
you can see at approx. 6000rpm it gets wonky.... any idea how i could cure that?...
i was thinking of lowering the gain for my boost controller to get a little bit smoother line, and possibly the boost percentage, there's no change from 40% and 45%.... mabe the excess strain trying to spool that turbo faster is whats causing the peaks...?
10-03-05, 01:08 AM
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one more thing, in my 3rd gear pulls it was boosting 9.5psi, now on the streets it hits 12psi sometimes, could my car being tuned the way it is, and the extra 2'ish PSI make my car ping at 6000rpm when the AF is 12:1?...
another thing, is it ok if my primary coils are horizontal?...
i was told they shoul ALWAYS be vertical, is this true...?
another thing, is it ok if my primary coils are horizontal?...
i was told they shoul ALWAYS be vertical, is this true...?
Last edited by Archangels; 10-03-05 at 01:19 AM.
10-03-05, 08:17 AM
#11
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Why are you adjusting the fuel on the street?
Try adding more fuel at your problem RPM ranges...
Does it get worse?
Then start to lean it out...
If the problem starts to clear up, you were running too much fuel.
I doubt it's a fuel delivery problem, cause the AFR would've been all over the place.
-Ted
Try adding more fuel at your problem RPM ranges...
Does it get worse?
Then start to lean it out...
If the problem starts to clear up, you were running too much fuel.
I doubt it's a fuel delivery problem, cause the AFR would've been all over the place.
-Ted
10-03-05, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Why are you adjusting the fuel on the street?
Try adding more fuel at your problem RPM ranges...
Does it get worse?
Then start to lean it out...
If the problem starts to clear up, you were running too much fuel.
I doubt it's a fuel delivery problem, cause the AFR would've been all over the place.
-Ted
Try adding more fuel at your problem RPM ranges...
Does it get worse?
Then start to lean it out...
If the problem starts to clear up, you were running too much fuel.
I doubt it's a fuel delivery problem, cause the AFR would've been all over the place.
-Ted
i tuned it on a mustang dyno which suposedly puts load on the car, so i thought everything was alright....
the GCC for the FCON has 6knobs at 1500rpm incriments....
500-2000-3500-5000-6500-8000
10-03-05, 06:32 PM
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According to the date on your dynograph, You tuned it back in July .. average temps were around 23 degrees C
It is now October.. average temps have been aprox 10 degrees during the day and close to freezeing in the evening.....
This WILL effect your tune
#2 .. Personally my feeling is that your dynoplot is not accurate.. the hp and torque plots do not look consistant to what I would expect from a rotary .. what happened at 6000rpm that caused your torque and hp to rise at the same time with the same rise and curve? yet, the af doesn't show any change at this point... I'd be hard pressed to put all my faith that the tune is accurate
#2
It is now October.. average temps have been aprox 10 degrees during the day and close to freezeing in the evening.....
This WILL effect your tune
#2 .. Personally my feeling is that your dynoplot is not accurate.. the hp and torque plots do not look consistant to what I would expect from a rotary .. what happened at 6000rpm that caused your torque and hp to rise at the same time with the same rise and curve? yet, the af doesn't show any change at this point... I'd be hard pressed to put all my faith that the tune is accurate
#2
10-04-05, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Ng
According to the date on your dynograph, You tuned it back in July .. average temps were around 23 degrees C
It is now October.. average temps have been aprox 10 degrees during the day and close to freezeing in the evening.....
This WILL effect your tune
#2 .. Personally my feeling is that your dynoplot is not accurate.. the hp and torque plots do not look consistant to what I would expect from a rotary .. what happened at 6000rpm that caused your torque and hp to rise at the same time with the same rise and curve? yet, the af doesn't show any change at this point... I'd be hard pressed to put all my faith that the tune is accurate
#2
It is now October.. average temps have been aprox 10 degrees during the day and close to freezeing in the evening.....
This WILL effect your tune
#2 .. Personally my feeling is that your dynoplot is not accurate.. the hp and torque plots do not look consistant to what I would expect from a rotary .. what happened at 6000rpm that caused your torque and hp to rise at the same time with the same rise and curve? yet, the af doesn't show any change at this point... I'd be hard pressed to put all my faith that the tune is accurate
#2
i have absolutely no idea why the power and torque are the way they are at 6000rpm, i'm suposedly pinging at that RPM aswell....
i am shot for idea's dude....
10-04-05, 06:15 AM
#15
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Originally Posted by Archangels
i thought that aswell....
i tuned it on a mustang dyno which suposedly puts load on the car, so i thought everything was alright....
the GCC for the FCON has 6knobs at 1500rpm incriments....
500-2000-3500-5000-6500-8000
i tuned it on a mustang dyno which suposedly puts load on the car, so i thought everything was alright....
the GCC for the FCON has 6knobs at 1500rpm incriments....
500-2000-3500-5000-6500-8000
It should read: "Why AREN'T you..."
I just love it when all these MD supporters claim their dyno can simulate driving on the street.
Your experience shows otherwise.
This is why I always final tune on the street.
You cannot absolutely mimic the loads the car and engine sees with actual driving.
I'd suggest tuning it on the street.
I think you're running too rich, and the "pinging" is due to too much fuel on the top end.
-Ted
10-04-05, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Oops, I had a typo...
It should read: "Why AREN'T you..."
I just love it when all these MD supporters claim their dyno can simulate driving on the street.
Your experience shows otherwise.
This is why I always final tune on the street.
You cannot absolutely mimic the loads the car and engine sees with actual driving.
I'd suggest tuning it on the street.
I think you're running too rich, and the "pinging" is due to too much fuel on the top end.
-Ted
It should read: "Why AREN'T you..."
I just love it when all these MD supporters claim their dyno can simulate driving on the street.
Your experience shows otherwise.
This is why I always final tune on the street.
You cannot absolutely mimic the loads the car and engine sees with actual driving.
I'd suggest tuning it on the street.
I think you're running too rich, and the "pinging" is due to too much fuel on the top end.
-Ted
i tuned for 11.5:1, i thought that wasnt too too rich, didnt wana risk my motor....
10-05-05, 06:37 AM
#17
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Ignore the wide-band...
Seriously.
Shooting for a target AFR number can get you into trouble.
If your wide-band has a slightly floating ground, the readings will be off.
Nothing beats seat-of-the-pants feel.
Always tune initially rich - when the car hesitates, you know you got too much fuel.
Now start backing it off...back just enough to get rid of the hesitations.
-Ted
Seriously.
Shooting for a target AFR number can get you into trouble.
If your wide-band has a slightly floating ground, the readings will be off.
Nothing beats seat-of-the-pants feel.
Always tune initially rich - when the car hesitates, you know you got too much fuel.
Now start backing it off...back just enough to get rid of the hesitations.
-Ted
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