Dimantling advice.
03-08-11, 12:11 AM
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Dimantling advice.
So I'm gonna be takng my engine apart soon. I was wondering what advice you all can give me when taking all the components off the block to put then on a new one. I'm s5 t2. Also. What's the best way to clean everything and get rid of carbon build up in the turbo manifold if any?
03-08-11, 08:57 AM
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buy a few boxes of ziploc bags (the ones you can write on) and a sharpie. dont forget to also label wires if you plan on re-using the factory harness.
03-08-11, 09:10 AM
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+2 On the labeling of nuts and bolts. I used liberal amounts of Brakleen to clean the outside of the engine. I'm sure you can use other kinds of degreasers, but the Brakleen blasts everything off, and dries very quick. It can get expensive at $4 a bottle though.
03-08-11, 01:59 PM
#7
+1 on all that advice....
If you are looking to get carbon off of the turbo itself, get some simple green and a wire brush. If you are going to be removing the manifold to clean it, get a bucket, some water, some ZAP, and some thick *** rubber gloves and go to town.
Dont dunk the turbo is what I'm trying to say; that would be a bad idea. Dunking the manifold itself though wouldnt hurt it.
If you are looking to get carbon off of the turbo itself, get some simple green and a wire brush. If you are going to be removing the manifold to clean it, get a bucket, some water, some ZAP, and some thick *** rubber gloves and go to town.
Dont dunk the turbo is what I'm trying to say; that would be a bad idea. Dunking the manifold itself though wouldnt hurt it.
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03-08-11, 07:09 PM
#9
halfway down the page, flywheel stopper. add a big breaker bar and if possible an engine stand. don't dump it on its side, you'll hate yourself.
I think the flywheel nut is a 54mm socket, or 2-1/8", a search should confirm this.
http://mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
I think the flywheel nut is a 54mm socket, or 2-1/8", a search should confirm this.
http://mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
03-08-11, 07:33 PM
#10
Dremel is VERY handy for cleaning small parts. Especially side seals that are typically reused. I found the "fuzzy" sponge like paint stripping bits are really really good at getting rid of carbon. The wear quick though, so buy a bunch. I also used it to clean the side of the housings where the coolant seals mate against. Cleaned them to nearly a polished finish.
03-08-11, 08:15 PM
#12
Im taking my S5 NA apart too.
I did't label most of the exterior bolts/nuts tho, cuz most of them have rust and Im going to buy all brand new ones (I know its going to cost a LOT)
the more "interior" ones like the ones around the engine, I will label them.
As for how to remove carbon, you need to "wash/clean" it off then just use air to dry them(air compressor), its not hard, but takes a lot of time.
I did't label most of the exterior bolts/nuts tho, cuz most of them have rust and Im going to buy all brand new ones (I know its going to cost a LOT)
the more "interior" ones like the ones around the engine, I will label them.
As for how to remove carbon, you need to "wash/clean" it off then just use air to dry them(air compressor), its not hard, but takes a lot of time.
03-08-11, 08:34 PM
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Sweet! His sounds like it's going to be lots of fun. I'm only transfering comPonents though. Maybe I'll take he old block apart for fun and see what went wrong. Maybe I'll rebuild it to have a back up or something. Although I don't really have a lot of space to keep it.
03-08-11, 08:56 PM
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halfway down the page, flywheel stopper. add a big breaker bar and if possible an engine stand. don't dump it on its side, you'll hate yourself.
I think the flywheel nut is a 54mm socket, or 2-1/8", a search should confirm this.
http://mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
I think the flywheel nut is a 54mm socket, or 2-1/8", a search should confirm this.
http://mazdatrix.com/ftools.htm
03-08-11, 09:00 PM
#15
First! before anything else. put a 19mm and long 1/2inch breaker bar on the front pulley nut.
Turn the engine over by hand until the bar contacts the frame at the battery. wrap it with a towel or use a peice of wood to make sure it doesnt dent or scratch your frame, or come off.
"Bump" the starter gently to break loose the front nut, now you won't have to deal with that later.
You may want to remove the egi fuses if you think you might over do the" bump".
Bump=turn the key for a split second to make the engine move 1/2 a rotation.
Turn the engine over by hand until the bar contacts the frame at the battery. wrap it with a towel or use a peice of wood to make sure it doesnt dent or scratch your frame, or come off.
"Bump" the starter gently to break loose the front nut, now you won't have to deal with that later.
You may want to remove the egi fuses if you think you might over do the" bump".
Bump=turn the key for a split second to make the engine move 1/2 a rotation.
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