diff mount broke agian
I would say don't weld it if you car is a daily driver, will cause you more pain than progress.....first before you think you mount is broken get under the car and look at it pry it with a crow bar. The reason is the same thing happened to me after I bought my mazda comp diff mount, and I check it out and the mount was fine....but the flange on the subframe that bolts up to the differntial was busted, I had to drop the entire subframe and have that piece welded back on...just a though..check it out before you spend more money@@@!!!!
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally Posted by igottafc
one other thing, does putting in a PS eliminate the need for a front diff mount
NO.
The PS is there to take the load off of the diff mount when you hit the gas.
It's there to *help* the diff mount, not replace it.
i am having the same problem. a constant bump in the back when i accelerate. i know i need to change the diff mount, but where i am in trinidad, parts are hard to come by.
anyone know where i may be able to get a diff mount?
anyone know where i may be able to get a diff mount?
Well, figured I'd bring this thread back from the dead to ask a simple question: Is anyone making solid welded front differential mounts now that Scalliwag isn't in business any more? I need one badly, and I'd just as soon weld it myself, but I just don't have time with work. Please help!
the mounts for ~$100 aren't poly, they're hard rubber. I haven't seen any poly yet. I'm looking for solid, though, as I'm running solid mounts for the engine, trans, rear subframe, and rear diff mounts, so the only thing left is the front diff mount, which isn't doing it any good.
How will a solid welded mount differ from one that isn't? Harsher ride? Are there any qualities to it besides being cheaper that would attract someone to doing it that way?
A little more drivetrane noise, not really anything harsher though. If anything else, it's actually smoother because there is then no compliance in the drivetrane to allow slop, so no rough low speed driving, better control of wheel hop on a hard launch, etc.
no, they actually last longer, as there is NO deflection in the driveshaft between the trans and diff, so there is no need for the U-joints to change angle from static, as there isn't any play. The only time you run into problems with the driveshaft is when you break it with a dog engagement trans.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
I welded mine myself, using a stick welder. I'd think you could walk into any place that does welding, like a muffler shop, and for $20 or whatever somebody will do it. The thing is, you need to rip out the rubber piece in the middle and replace it with steel. I just used what was at hand; big, fat nuts and bolts (it's not like anyone would ever see it.)
There's not much to it, except making sure that the 'new' welded mount is as close as possible in shape to the original.
There's not much to it, except making sure that the 'new' welded mount is as close as possible in shape to the original.
Well, figured I'd bring this thread back from the dead to ask a simple question: Is anyone making solid welded front differential mounts now that Scalliwag isn't in business any more? I need one badly, and I'd just as soon weld it myself, but I just don't have time with work. Please help!
I have it in my 400RWHP TII and I have not broken a diff mount since.
His name is JR his number is 772-343-0510 tell him Jim told you about the diff brace he makes and he can explain it to you and give you a price.
My car was the test mule for it since I was breaking Mazdaspeed Braces on it.
^I'm trying to picture it, but it looks like a pinion snubber?
I too have installed a large pinion snubber and preloaded in my car. I have no had any problems since, even with hard and ridiculously bad launches.
I like the idea of distributing the forces instead of just isolating it on a 20 year old subframe.
I too have installed a large pinion snubber and preloaded in my car. I have no had any problems since, even with hard and ridiculously bad launches.
I like the idea of distributing the forces instead of just isolating it on a 20 year old subframe.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
whizzybang
Naturally Aspirated Performance Forum
21
Feb 10, 2017 12:08 PM



