speedholes

I posted in another thread yesterday because I thought I had the same problem as the guy who started the thread. My car had stalled out on the way home from work, then refused to accelerate but was willing to putter around (and around and around) a gas station. It was also not consistently putting out the proper 13.8V. The overwhelming response to this problem was "blown apex seal, sucker." (Between the tears, I was already dreaming about crazy engine swaps...)

I went to the car today to do a compression check, but I decided to start it up and give it a chance before ripping the plugs out. It drove perfectly all night (except for the clutch release bearing which is now making a bit of noise -- it's always something) and everything on the dash looked normal.

So obviously my apex seals are fine (right?), but I'd like to be sure this doesn't happen again. Has this ever happened to anyone? What do you guys think I should check?

slpin

iTrader: (9)

check plug wires?

speedholes

I'm planning on replacing the plugs and wires this weekend. They're not that old, though.

I was thinking there might be a loose connection to the alternator. A friend of mine thinks it might be the fuel pump. Any other ideas or things to check?

RETed

I don't suppose you have a relocated battery?

Loose or corroded battery terminals will do that to you.


-Ted

JoshRX7

iTrader: (5)

Definitely sounds electrical... maybe you were in limp mode around the gas station... I can't wait to get that Haltech E8 and the new harness to boot.

SureShot

You need to pull the check codes to see if anything is lurking.

speedholes

It's not throwing any check codes.

However... I'm dumb. Dumb as hell. Half an hour into my commute to work, I felt it starting to act up again. It definitely felt like it wasn't burning all the fuel, and the exhaust was popping pretty loudly. I managed to cruise a few more blocks going about 40, had to slow down for a car, and stalled. I hit my flashers, limped another block, saw an auto parts store, pulled into it (had to start it up three times to get it into a parking space) and found out the damn place doesn't open for another three weeks.

Before walking the rest of the way to work, I popped the hood and saw an unusual amount of yellow crap around the positive battery terminal.

What do I need to replace? The battery? Or just that one terminal? (And do you think this assmastery might have also fouled my spark plugs?)

slpin

iTrader: (9)

take it out
use (baking soda, right???) and clean the crap out of it and put it on?

speedholes

Y'know, I guess I should scrub the terminals with a wire brush and baking soda before I go replacing ****...

speedholes

lol, you beat me

ch0g0nda

Wire cloth or emery (sp) cloth on the terminals should clear that up; I had the same problem after my car sat at the tranny shop for a month ^_~

speedholes

Okay, I got the terminals and connectors all sparkling clean, and the problem is still there. (Sorry about the delay, btw.)

Let me restate the problem, as I've become more familiar with it over the weekend. The car idles and runs fine for 2-10 minutes after I start it up, and then the power drops. Specifically, it almost refuses to accelerate until ~3200 rpm (NOT ~3800 rpm as I first thought), and above that the power is almost as it should be but still feels just a bit laggy. The car also wants to stall at stoplights.

I don't think it could be a clogged primary injector, because then I wouldn't get the few minutes of normal driving. For the same reason, I don't think it's the apex seals, etc.

What the hell is going on? Anyone else ever experience loss of power until 3200 rpm?

cloudlight69

i dont know if this will apply to FC's, but on my tricked out sundance i had the exact same problem. she would start up fine and rip around like she was fine, for about 30 minutes, until she would start to sputter and eventually die. the amount of time i could drive got shorter and shorter and the days went on, until i could only keep the car running for about 5 minutes before she would cut out. i thought it might have been all that was metnioned above, until my father stepped in to tell me it was in fact my fuel pump. as it turns out, he was right. 60 bux later and a weekend in my garage and she was all better. i hope this helps you.

speedholes

I have a feeling it's running rich because of the way the exhaust sounds, but it could be running lean too. Don't really know.

Could it be a problem with the ECU?

speedholes

The engine gets fuel just fine for a while before it starts f*cking up, so I don't think the test described in the FSM (jumping the check connector, etc.) would be any use. Besides, I don't have a fuel pressure gauge (are they cheap?). Is there another way to find out the condition of the fuel pump?

Or do you think it could just be a clogged filter?

socalrotor

iTrader: (1)

My car did the same exact thing.........till I pluged in the AFM connector all the way. Look at the air flow meter and make sure the connecter is tight and the flap is easy to move. Unless you got a S5, then I have no idea!

speedholes

Oh, I've been waiting for somebody to say the words "same exact thing."

It is an S4 ('87 NA). I'll go look at the AFM and post results.

speedholes

Damn. I forgot the AFM is buried under the air filter instead of sitting next to it. I checked the connector and it's seated just fine, but that's all I'm going to do for tonight -- it's pretty dark and cold as hell outside.

So here's my list of things to check tomorrow:
- AFM flap and connector pins
- compression (poor man's test)
- spark plugs (I don't have the right sockets)
- ignition coils (if I can)

What else should I check? And how can I rule out the fuel pump for sure?

speedholes

I had planned to bring it to a friend's garage last night... but now it won't start. And there's a brand-new knocking-type noise under the hood when the engine tries to turn over.

Except for making it run in the winter, I've treated this engine like gold. Redline at least 2-3 times per tank, 20W50 in summer, 10W30 in winter, no injector cleaner or other additives. The only maintenance I haven't been good about is washing the damn car. There's no way this rebuild (from Atkins) should die with less than 40k.

Pending a compression check, I may be parting this thing out soon. I'll let you guys know.

SureShot

You said it's not throwing any codes, but it can store codes without turning on the CEL.
The only way to tell is to plug in a test light.
Two that can give your symptoms are the intake air temp sensor in the AFM and the water thermo sensor under the thermostat.

speedholes

They didn't make them with check-engine lights until '89. I'm using the test light. Both lights turn on and then stay off. Thanks, though.

coletrain

once you throw the key off the codes are gone untell it happens again, i think. Also, when it first starts to die, try turning the key off and on while you are still limping along. If it immedialy runs fine, it is most likly the oil mettering pump (OMP) sending a message to the ECU - I'm going through this right now.

speedholes

Okay, I know it's been a while, but the weather's been shitty and I've been lazy.

I replaced the battery terminals, made sure the battery was okay, and did a compression check which also turned out fine. The car still won't start. It feels like it's getting good spark, though. I thought it might be flooded, but I did the unflooding procedure (removing the EGI fuse, etc.) a few times and there was no change.

What should I try next?

speedholes

I meant the clamps on the battery cables, not the terminals themselves, obviously.