Devdude

I did a search on the site to find a way to get the codes from the ECU because I got a check engine light. My search pointed me to the procedure at this site:

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ER...KI/kerror.html

According to this procedure I need to count the flashes of the check engine light. Only problem is I dont get any flashes. When I turn the ignition on I get the initial engine light, it then goes out like the procedure states. But when it comes back on it stays on steady instead of blinking the codes.

Does anyone have any idea why this might happen? I had just returned from a long drive where the car performed beautifully. As I came into my driveway the check engine light came on and I could smell the exhaust go real rich. Now the car cannot accelerate up even the smallest of hills and I am still smelling a rich exhaust.

Any ideas or help that you can provide are appreciated. I am starting to reach the end of my patience with the engine problems on this vehicle, not to mention my budget.

Thanks,

Devdude

Icemark

year??? Model???

SureShot

Your profile says 91 Vert. Is that correct?
You say the light comes back on steady? Ingition on & engine not running?

Devdude

Sorry, yes it's a 91 Vert. I connect the green connector with the single wire to the negative terminal on the battery. Turn the key to ignition without starting the engine. The engine light comes on for about 1 second and then goes out. When it comes back on it stays steady instead of blinking the codes. If it matters all of the other warning lights stay on too (i.e. Seatbelt, etc...)

RETed

It means the ECU is no good.

Try this anyways...
Disconnect the battery (negative terminal) for about 5 minutes.
Reconnect.
Try the error code scan again - does it still do the same thing?


-Ted

Devdude

I disconnected the battery and the check engine light stayed off (code clered I assume). So I let the car idle for about 15 minutes still no light. I take it out for a spin and the light comes on at the first hill I come too. The car didn't accelerate as well as it usually does but it did accelerate up the hill. Before it wouldn't accelerate at all. So I drive around some more hitting the hills as much as I can. Again, not as good as it has been but still have some acceleration.

Tried to check the code again after the drive and have the same issue. I just got the car from the mechanic about 2 weeks ago where he supposedly changed the ECU out with another used ECU. I am starting to think I got ripped off ... again. Getting real tired of trying to find a rotary mechanic that can be trusted. Is the ECU something that can be changed out easily? Or does it require some special equipment to get things running smooth again?

RETed

It's not that hard to access.

1) Remove passerger side kickpanel - this require pulling 3(?) plastic push pins that hold it in place.

2) At the same time, I like to pull the plastic door sill protector that runs from the front of the door to the back - this requires removing the 4 or 5 screws that hold it in place.

3) From the passenger side footwell, pull the carpet back from the firewall.

4) Under the carpet, you'll see a metal panel that's angled - you need to remove two 10mm bolts on the bottom and two 10mm nuts at the top.

5) The metal panel can now be removed, and you should see the ECU underneath.

6) The ECU is normally secured by four 10mm nuts - two at the top and two at the bottom.

7) Once the harness plugs are removed, the ECU should be loose.


-Ted

Devdude

Thanks Ted. I notices ECU's going for around $50 on eBay. Any reason to stay away from them, and if so where is the best place to get another one. I assume new would be pretty pricey.

Before I do this though i want to check my temp sensor. I had to do the block weld fix for my coolant seals not too long ago and I am wondering if the temp sensor got messed up. I beleive this would cause an extremely rich fuel mixture which would fit the symptoms I am seeing. Am I wrong in this assessment?