DID THE SEARCH!! did not find nothing close help with TII overheating
10-04-05, 08:54 PM
#1
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DID THE SEARCH!! did not find nothing close help with TII overheating
Hey Guys
It's me again, I found the problem with the low power and slow revving in my rebuilt 13 B of my TII, I drove the car from work, now has almost 300 miles since rebuilt it, so driving back home from work the little hose under the intake manifold decided to fail and leaked almost all the coolant therefore the car almost got overheat it. I changed the hose next morning and I was happy to find that my major problem with the under power in my rebuilt engine was an unpluged primary injector and fix that. So I changed the hose and put everything back together and the car drove just like a champ but then the temperature started raising, then came back home and cooled the car down, then tried again to get back to work but then got really hot and when I stopped, coolant was coming out of the front coolant reservoir like crazy, this never happened before. Then I let the car to cool down for hours, came back, filled it up followng the FSM process and came home the temp gauge half way. I was trying all night but the car gets hot. I took the thermostat of the car, and the car doesn't have the white smoke coming out, it is a new rebuilt. Please guys help me, any ideas. BTW, I did set the heater but no hot air comes out of the vents, no leaks at all and have no idea what else can cause this problem.
Thanks in advance for your help
Carl
It's me again, I found the problem with the low power and slow revving in my rebuilt 13 B of my TII, I drove the car from work, now has almost 300 miles since rebuilt it, so driving back home from work the little hose under the intake manifold decided to fail and leaked almost all the coolant therefore the car almost got overheat it. I changed the hose next morning and I was happy to find that my major problem with the under power in my rebuilt engine was an unpluged primary injector and fix that. So I changed the hose and put everything back together and the car drove just like a champ but then the temperature started raising, then came back home and cooled the car down, then tried again to get back to work but then got really hot and when I stopped, coolant was coming out of the front coolant reservoir like crazy, this never happened before. Then I let the car to cool down for hours, came back, filled it up followng the FSM process and came home the temp gauge half way. I was trying all night but the car gets hot. I took the thermostat of the car, and the car doesn't have the white smoke coming out, it is a new rebuilt. Please guys help me, any ideas. BTW, I did set the heater but no hot air comes out of the vents, no leaks at all and have no idea what else can cause this problem.
Thanks in advance for your help
Carl
Last edited by carlrx788; 10-04-05 at 08:57 PM.
10-04-05, 09:16 PM
#4
it could be the water pump.....pull it off? if it doenst look to coroded( like fins rusted off or somthing) , and doenst leak, and it spins freely with little play, its ok id say.
do you have the cooling fan and fan shroud attached?? that will make it over heat in trafic and stuff....
how hot did u over heat it? like peg the gauge hot???
you could have blown a coolent seal,even if its a new rebuild they can still blow if overheated hard enough,
generally the white smoke would only be on start up but not allways, and/or it will over pressureize the coolent system with exhaust gases,( makeing coolent bubble out the over flow and car overheat!!)
do you have the cooling fan and fan shroud attached?? that will make it over heat in trafic and stuff....
how hot did u over heat it? like peg the gauge hot???
you could have blown a coolent seal,even if its a new rebuild they can still blow if overheated hard enough,
generally the white smoke would only be on start up but not allways, and/or it will over pressureize the coolent system with exhaust gases,( makeing coolent bubble out the over flow and car overheat!!)
10-04-05, 09:42 PM
#5
i just fixed my problem today with the bubbles and the water coming out of the overflow. what i did was just change the thermostat, change the bleeder scwew which was leaking a little fluid, flushed, and the car runs great. i let the car idle for 30 mins periodically checking and it stayed cool. i the proceeded to take the car for a hard drive and never got it over the normal. oh and by the way, if you can't wait for the mazda bleeder screw and need to get the car going go to pull a part and get the drain screw off of i guess about a 90-93 nissan maxima and it will work perfectly!
10-04-05, 09:45 PM
#6
and just because say your car is overheating don't always listen to the dreaded you need to rebuild your motor. if you start the cheap way and change the little things first at least it'll be new when you do rebuild.
10-04-05, 10:29 PM
#7
I live in an igloo
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Look at the whole cooling system and eliminate the things that can go bad one by one by checking them out physically.
1)Shroud is in place?
2)Clutch fan is not slipping?
3)Thermostat is not stuck?
4)Water pump is not corroded?
5)Water pump belts are to manufacturer's tightness?
6)Water jackets+radiator are not corroded with rust/lime on inside or any other type of insulation?
7)Radiator fins are mostly straight and not clogged with mud/bugs?
8)The cooling system is water tight? There are no internal or external leaks resulting in lost pressure?
9)Hoses are not kinked?
Honestly if you check all of the above, the only way you could be overheating is if you have your car parked in the sahara in nuetral reving the engine to 8k and just sitting there.
If any of the above is compromised, you'll get overheating. Pressure testing, flushing the system with CLR, and physically observing the components is the only way your going to find the problem. We can't help you unless the car is in front of us and we're willing to do the work.
1)Shroud is in place?
2)Clutch fan is not slipping?
3)Thermostat is not stuck?
4)Water pump is not corroded?
5)Water pump belts are to manufacturer's tightness?
6)Water jackets+radiator are not corroded with rust/lime on inside or any other type of insulation?
7)Radiator fins are mostly straight and not clogged with mud/bugs?
8)The cooling system is water tight? There are no internal or external leaks resulting in lost pressure?
9)Hoses are not kinked?
Honestly if you check all of the above, the only way you could be overheating is if you have your car parked in the sahara in nuetral reving the engine to 8k and just sitting there.
If any of the above is compromised, you'll get overheating. Pressure testing, flushing the system with CLR, and physically observing the components is the only way your going to find the problem. We can't help you unless the car is in front of us and we're willing to do the work.
Trending Topics
10-05-05, 01:58 AM
#8
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, lets see:
1 Shroud is in place
2 cluthc fan is working
3 no thermostat
4 WP not corroded
5 as far as I know WP and belts are to tight correctly
6 will check
7 radiator is in good conditon
8 no external leaks
9 will check but almost sure no kinked hoses.
Tomorrow will try all over again
Thanks guys
Carl
1 Shroud is in place
2 cluthc fan is working
3 no thermostat
4 WP not corroded
5 as far as I know WP and belts are to tight correctly
6 will check
7 radiator is in good conditon
8 no external leaks
9 will check but almost sure no kinked hoses.
Tomorrow will try all over again
Thanks guys
Carl
10-05-05, 10:19 AM
#9
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took the chance and after bleeding the cooling system again I test dorve the car before taking to work (50 miles around trip). The car got a little above half and there was no coolant overflowing at the reservoir, nor white smoke at the start up, I did noticed that the faster I was going the temp raised just a hair up. The heater stil does not work and when I set the temp in the logicon to red, the air coming from the vent is still cold, not even warm. But one thing, the car drives awesome, I hope I can fix this issue to enjoy it more.
Thanks for your help to all and if you have any other ideas, please let me know, I am going to replace the t-stat and the WP.
Thanks for your help to all and if you have any other ideas, please let me know, I am going to replace the t-stat and the WP.
10-05-05, 10:27 AM
#11
I live in an igloo
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If the heater core is not working, and the air is cold and the engine hot, that totally confirms #6 as a culprit. Flush that system with CLR man, seriously.
10-05-05, 11:09 AM
#12
MAVREN RENEGADE
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just to throw this out there, check the plastic piece that your radiator cap screws onto. sorry, i dont know what the proper name for that piece is. i once had a overheating problem that was fixed by replacing that because those things will crack over long periods of time under heat and what not. on mine, the crack was so small that no coolant would escape but air bubbles were still managing to get in. hope this helps!
10-05-05, 11:33 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: ILLINOIS
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To interject on the no heat in the car problem, check you under dash heater control. when you switch the logicon, do the doors move to open the hot air door? this motor is attatched under the driver side dash on the center console rather high in the dash. mine was not working so i got a new one and it works great now. otherwise it might also be a logicon problem, just a thought if it is not related to the over heating thing.
10-05-05, 11:43 AM
#14
I live in an igloo
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: calgary alberta
Posts: 2,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by duffles
To interject on the no heat in the car problem, check you under dash heater control. when you switch the logicon, do the doors move to open the hot air door? this motor is attatched under the driver side dash on the center console rather high in the dash. mine was not working so i got a new one and it works great now. otherwise it might also be a logicon problem, just a thought if it is not related to the over heating thing.
If the door is blocked, and the heater core is hot, then theres still one of the things on the list that is wrong.
10-05-05, 11:45 AM
#15
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Duffles,
Thanks for your advice , and yes, there is something wrong with my heater system and I'm planing to work o in this week end, and I'm not sure it could be related with the engine temperature problem
Thanks for your advice , and yes, there is something wrong with my heater system and I'm planing to work o in this week end, and I'm not sure it could be related with the engine temperature problem
10-05-05, 12:32 PM
#17
is The Whoopieschnootz
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Asheville NC
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think your problem is thermostat related. The reason aftermarket thermos don't work right in a 7 is that there is a bypass hole, that the OEM Mazda thermostats cover up. Without the proper thermostat, or without one at all, this bypass hole is open, and a fair bit of your coolant is just being fed back into the system. I've heard this problem plenty, and usually a new t-stat from Mazda (and noone else) fixes it. This may not be the case for you as you overheated your engine, but it doesn't sound to me like you did anything too bad to it... how hot did it get?
10-05-05, 01:45 PM
#18
Carter 2.0
"I" think the problem is you water pump not circulating the coolant. I would be replacing the water pump on a newly rebuilt motor...........ask me how I know........
My water pump seemed fine before I put it back on the rebuild and after i took it off, I never tried to find out just what exactly wears out on them but once I replaced it My cooling problems were solved. AND to boot, ever wonder why an engine with only 89k had bad coolant seals to begin with??? After rebuilding the whole motor and then within the first 100-200 miles, and the actual first load on the cooling system, the water pump failed completly and hoses blew just like yours. Let's see the, coolant seals were blown......maybe because the water pump had been bad for a while allowing it to heat up prior to me buying it??? Maybe??? You think??? surely somebody wouldn't wouldn't dump a car off to a dealer after they overheated it...........nobody would that....
Anyway, I think you water pump is not circulating the coolant
My water pump seemed fine before I put it back on the rebuild and after i took it off, I never tried to find out just what exactly wears out on them but once I replaced it My cooling problems were solved. AND to boot, ever wonder why an engine with only 89k had bad coolant seals to begin with??? After rebuilding the whole motor and then within the first 100-200 miles, and the actual first load on the cooling system, the water pump failed completly and hoses blew just like yours. Let's see the, coolant seals were blown......maybe because the water pump had been bad for a while allowing it to heat up prior to me buying it??? Maybe??? You think??? surely somebody wouldn't wouldn't dump a car off to a dealer after they overheated it...........nobody would that....
Anyway, I think you water pump is not circulating the coolant
10-05-05, 02:37 PM
#20
Here is some counter info to the "It's not a rebuilt situation"
My 88 GTU had 100k on the motor.
The car would run and cool perfectly fine. I drove this thing daily 60+ miles to work.
The car one day started to purge coolant out overflow bottle.
I freaked out like normal because I think it's coolant seal.
I do all the tests and stuff listed above.
I replace the radiator cap and the purging went away.
I thought I was all set.
Skip ahead 2-3 months. I'm driving home and the cars fine. I get off the highway and all of a sudden the idle get's lumpy..... I then proceed to drive and I look behind me to see a huge coolant puddle. The car took about 10 seconds to over heat after that.
BTW my car until that night NEVER blew smoke or showed bubbles in the coolant.
I'm betting if you had a coolant line failure and you overheated one or two times then you've toasted a housing or if your lucky just the seals.
My 88 GTU had 100k on the motor.
The car would run and cool perfectly fine. I drove this thing daily 60+ miles to work.
The car one day started to purge coolant out overflow bottle.
I freaked out like normal because I think it's coolant seal.
I do all the tests and stuff listed above.
I replace the radiator cap and the purging went away.
I thought I was all set.
Skip ahead 2-3 months. I'm driving home and the cars fine. I get off the highway and all of a sudden the idle get's lumpy..... I then proceed to drive and I look behind me to see a huge coolant puddle. The car took about 10 seconds to over heat after that.
BTW my car until that night NEVER blew smoke or showed bubbles in the coolant.
I'm betting if you had a coolant line failure and you overheated one or two times then you've toasted a housing or if your lucky just the seals.
10-06-05, 09:13 AM
#21
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, here we go again,
Yesterday I came home form work, let the car cool down and got ready to work in it. I wanted to put the T-stat back in it and tight the WP belt, but then one of the bolts of the t-stat hosing broke so half is in the WP hosing, so I will work in the car this weekend AGAIN!!!! I need words of support guys, this is getting kind of *&%*&^&$^&%$E&^%.
and I wanted to kill the car but I like it to much to do so. This is my 8th R's and my first TII. I even got a GTUs once. I sold my Miata M edition for this TII and after lots of $$ and time the thing still needs work, so I need a really good excuse to keep the car. Sorry for the winning but I got it on June and is October so I am getting little upset,
Thanks guys
Carl
Yesterday I came home form work, let the car cool down and got ready to work in it. I wanted to put the T-stat back in it and tight the WP belt, but then one of the bolts of the t-stat hosing broke so half is in the WP hosing, so I will work in the car this weekend AGAIN!!!! I need words of support guys, this is getting kind of *&%*&^&$^&%$E&^%.
and I wanted to kill the car but I like it to much to do so. This is my 8th R's and my first TII. I even got a GTUs once. I sold my Miata M edition for this TII and after lots of $$ and time the thing still needs work, so I need a really good excuse to keep the car. Sorry for the winning but I got it on June and is October so I am getting little upset,
Thanks guys
Carl
10-10-05, 12:51 PM
#22
Turbo fever
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok Guys,
I spent soemt time of this weekend working in the car "again" and test drove, I got the T-stat back in and fixed the broken bolt of the WP housing and tight the belts before I get a new WP. The car drives better and cooler, the temp gauge goes a under half of the gauge and I thik it is normal. I think I will replace the WP in the near future just to be safe, other wise the car drives very normal.
Thanks to all for your big help
Carl
I spent soemt time of this weekend working in the car "again" and test drove, I got the T-stat back in and fixed the broken bolt of the WP housing and tight the belts before I get a new WP. The car drives better and cooler, the temp gauge goes a under half of the gauge and I thik it is normal. I think I will replace the WP in the near future just to be safe, other wise the car drives very normal.
Thanks to all for your big help
Carl
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post