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Did oil change now reading low oil pressure readings [i searched]

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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Did oil change now reading low oil pressure readings [i searched]

before i did my oil change my car oil levels were readings between 30 and 60. now its under 10 psi at idle and only reaching about 20-25. i used 5w-30 oil. could this be my problem?
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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I've switched between 5w-30 and 20w-50 without seeing any change in oil pressure.
I think something else might be going on.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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From: wilmot,oh
make sure you didnt disturb connection on sender taking filter off.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Took this from the Shell site:
Why is my oil pressure lower now than with my old oil?

This could simply be due to using a different viscosity grade. However, this should not cause you to worry. Assuming the oil pressure gauge remains accurate, it is measuring pressure in the oil gallery after the positive displacement oil pump. This pump moves a constant volume of oil at any given engine speed. Assuming that there is no major leakage from, for example, a badly worn main bearing or even oil pump, any variation in pressure is the result of a change in the resistance to the flow of oil meaning that it is easier for the oil to flow to where it is needed and not an indication of lack of oil.

In contrast, high oil pressure can indicate either excessive oil thickening resulting in difficulty in pumping the oil to the bearings, or blockages of the oil ways eg from deposits formed by breakdown of poor quality oils. This can result in oil starvation and early engine failure.

That 5-30 is pretty light oil for this time of year. I have seen a rise in the pressure when going to a heavier weight oil. Even when pouring the oil, one can see a vast difference between the 5-30 and a 20-50 oil. In our Acura TL I use a 5-20, but in the TII I use 15-40, a lot different when pouring into the engine. Oil is cheap, get some heavier oil and give it a try.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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From: new york
thanks guys im prolly gonna try a thicker oil. and going to double check all connections. update took the car for a spin

reading 15 at idle idle is 1k

reading 55 at 3/4 throttle

any comments welcomed
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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From: Montgomery Alabama
Originally Posted by Turbonut
Took this from the Shell site:
Why is my oil pressure lower now than with my old oil?

This could simply be due to using a different viscosity grade. However, this should not cause you to worry. Assuming the oil pressure gauge remains accurate, it is measuring pressure in the oil gallery after the positive displacement oil pump. This pump moves a constant volume of oil at any given engine speed. Assuming that there is no major leakage from, for example, a badly worn main bearing or even oil pump, any variation in pressure is the result of a change in the resistance to the flow of oil meaning that it is easier for the oil to flow to where it is needed and not an indication of lack of oil.

In contrast, high oil pressure can indicate either excessive oil thickening resulting in difficulty in pumping the oil to the bearings, or blockages of the oil ways eg from deposits formed by breakdown of poor quality oils. This can result in oil starvation and early engine failure.

That 5-30 is pretty light oil for this time of year. I have seen a rise in the pressure when going to a heavier weight oil. Even when pouring the oil, one can see a vast difference between the 5-30 and a 20-50 oil. In our Acura TL I use a 5-20, but in the TII I use 15-40, a lot different when pouring into the engine. Oil is cheap, get some heavier oil and give it a try.

On water cooled engines there is no "Oil for this time of year". Water cooled engines operate at the same temperature year around. The only difference ambient temp makes is start up thickness.

And that paragraph from shell about "The oil can now flow easier" is true, but its also a crock of ****. A engine requires X flow at Y pressure. By reducing oil pressure yeah..more oil is moving...but its doubtful its as effective at moving its way through bearings and separating moving parts, its just gushing around with not enough pressure to adequately separate moving parts (Which is what lubrication is).

Yes your oil is too "light". But it has nothing to do with the time of year it is.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Photonic
Yes your oil is too "light". But it has nothing to do with the time of year it is.
I disagree. Although the coolant temp may be 195 for example, the oil temp can vary on a 50 degree day cruising down the highway, compared to a 100 degree day with the A/C running in heavy traffic.
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Originally Posted by Photonic
On water cooled engines there is no "Oil for this time of year". The only difference ambient temp makes is start up thickness.
I am SO GLAD that all of the major auto and engine manufacturers have now been called out for this conspiracy regarding seasonal recommendations for oil. Those bastards have been getting away with this for nearly 80 years.
Originally Posted by Photonic
And that paragraph from shell about "The oil can now flow easier" is true, but its also a crock of ****.
Flawless logic...
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Old Aug 23, 2009 | 03:55 PM
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From: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Originally Posted by fearjigs
before i did my oil change my car oil levels were readings between 30 and 60. now its under 10 psi at idle and only reaching about 20-25. i used 5w-30 oil. could this be my problem?
Most likely:
- Small leak that you missed. (Leak at oil filter? Maybe the oil drain plug? Did you use a new drain plug gasket as per the FSM?)
- Oil too "light"
- Didn't put in enough oil. It usually takes about 5.5qts, depending on how well you drained the system. (Check dipstick as per FSM).
- Didn't wait long enough to read pressure (operation of the eccentric shaft bypass valve lowers the oil pressure when the engine is cold).

There are many other more serious reasons why your oil pressure is low, but try the above first. I also recommend switching to 10w30, 10w40, or 20w50, depending on the temperature in your region. You shouldn't use a 5w multi-grade unless you are using a very good Group IV or V synthetic oil, or if you drive in a really cold climate.

* If you think that it is stupid to replace the oil drain plug gasket as per the FSM, I recommend the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve (F-106 Regular Valve), which is one of my favorite cheapie mods.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

Originally Posted by Photonic
On water cooled engines there is no "Oil for this time of year". Water cooled engines operate at the same temperature year around. The only difference ambient temp makes is start up thickness.

And that paragraph from shell about "The oil can now flow easier" is true, but its also a crock of ****. A engine requires X flow at Y pressure. By reducing oil pressure yeah..more oil is moving...but its doubtful its as effective at moving its way through bearings and separating moving parts, its just gushing around with not enough pressure to adequately separate moving parts (Which is what lubrication is).

Yes your oil is too "light". But it has nothing to do with the time of year it is.
Actually, the ambient temperature does affect the recommended oil grade. If you look in the FSM, you will see that 5w30 is only recommended for extremely low temperatures, while 10w30 is good for much higher temperatures. Were cold starting the only issue, both 5w30 and 10w30 would both go up to about 90degF on the chart, but as you see, that is not the case. Although the engine is water-cooled and thermostat-controlled, the oil cooler does not work as well in hot weather since it is a simple heat exchanger which relies on ambient air for cooling. Besides high ambient temperature, a high engine load (racing, hill climbing, towing, etc.) will also put a strain on the oil.
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