Did I get screwed? Thermostat Question *pics*
Am I the only one that things you guys are over thinking a thermostat???
What is the point of thermostat? To restrict water flow and allow your car to reach it's prime operating temperature and keep it there correct? Does it have any other purpose? Do you really think a rotary engine needs any help reaching it's prime operating temp? I would like to see some temperature measurements with and with out under the same exact conditions (ambient temperatures, coolant to water ratio, ect...) And see what the difference is. Because I am a firm believer and removing the stupid thing. And I have never had a car give me problems after the fact....
What is the point of thermostat? To restrict water flow and allow your car to reach it's prime operating temperature and keep it there correct? Does it have any other purpose? Do you really think a rotary engine needs any help reaching it's prime operating temp? I would like to see some temperature measurements with and with out under the same exact conditions (ambient temperatures, coolant to water ratio, ect...) And see what the difference is. Because I am a firm believer and removing the stupid thing. And I have never had a car give me problems after the fact....
But see, a poor quality thermostat won't open up fully, or fast enough, when the water temperature is high. Therefore, not enough will reach the radiator and the engine will likely overheat/begin overheating.
If you remove it... then won't it take longer for the engine to warm up to operating temp?
If you remove it... then won't it take longer for the engine to warm up to operating temp?
But see, a poor quality thermostat won't open up fully, or fast enough, when the water temperature is high. Therefore, not enough will reach the radiator and the engine will likely overheat/begin overheating.
If you remove it... then won't it take longer for the engine to warm up to operating temp?
If you remove it... then won't it take longer for the engine to warm up to operating temp?
Yes, but what a few seconds or a minute? And I would think rotaries even less so. Some cars the heater won't work with the stat removed, but I live in FL so I could care less. I am just wondering if there are any real adverse affects. Or Specific affects with a rotary powered car?
The motorad thermostat will work fine for now (so would a Stant). Your temperature might be a little higher, but that's about it. Later on, things won't be so good. It'll either run much hotter or get totally stuck and make the engine overheat.
So, order the OEM thermostat and don't worry about the Motorad for now. When your OEM thermostat arrives, swap it in. But there's no hurry. In the unlikely event that you do run into problems, remove the thermostat and drive without one until you can put in a new one. The Haynes manual warns against running w/o a thermostat b/c it'll make the ECU go into open loop, which hurts fuel economy and emissions (a little). Besides that your cooling system won't distribute coolant as well w/o a t-stat, which will make you run a little hotter. So don't worry.
The jiggle pin on the OEM thermostat should be on top for it to work best, btw.
So, order the OEM thermostat and don't worry about the Motorad for now. When your OEM thermostat arrives, swap it in. But there's no hurry. In the unlikely event that you do run into problems, remove the thermostat and drive without one until you can put in a new one. The Haynes manual warns against running w/o a thermostat b/c it'll make the ECU go into open loop, which hurts fuel economy and emissions (a little). Besides that your cooling system won't distribute coolant as well w/o a t-stat, which will make you run a little hotter. So don't worry.
The jiggle pin on the OEM thermostat should be on top for it to work best, btw.
Last edited by ericgrau; Aug 13, 2007 at 02:25 AM.
I just replaced mine in early July, from the dealer, looked just like yours (although it didn't occur to me to check for the maker's name) and it's been fine.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about it.
Mazdatrix sells Stant's for S5's now
For their hydraulics, they sell Tokico cylinders for clutch master, slave and brake master. Apparently, Tokico makes OEM cylinders for Mazda.
For their hydraulics, they sell Tokico cylinders for clutch master, slave and brake master. Apparently, Tokico makes OEM cylinders for Mazda.

Here's some pics of mine:
http://picasaweb.google.com/micaheli/Stat
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Anyone who owned a Fordzda in the 93-98 era-626, MX-6 or Probe would be happy to blame Ford for everything wrong with Mazda parts procurement.
$1200 alternators and $300 spark plug wires, $250 Auto-warping brake rotors and $300 shocks my ***...And no after-market during the first couple of years of production.
When I sold my 93 626 ES with 78,000 miles in 1994, it needed over $2000 of parts (not labor) that were unavailable anywhere but the Dealer. I had already spent thousands on repair parts. Throw in the preloaded high-toe rear suspension that scrubbed off tread like a belt sander ala the Acura NSX (3 sets of replacement tires after the oems in 78,000 mi). I lost my ***
trading the car because the entire world was aware of the situation.
Built Ford tough...
$1200 alternators and $300 spark plug wires, $250 Auto-warping brake rotors and $300 shocks my ***...And no after-market during the first couple of years of production.
When I sold my 93 626 ES with 78,000 miles in 1994, it needed over $2000 of parts (not labor) that were unavailable anywhere but the Dealer. I had already spent thousands on repair parts. Throw in the preloaded high-toe rear suspension that scrubbed off tread like a belt sander ala the Acura NSX (3 sets of replacement tires after the oems in 78,000 mi). I lost my ***
trading the car because the entire world was aware of the situation.Built Ford tough...
You might look for parts from Taiwan but I was looking for a Mazda part from a reputable parts company. Smart ***.
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