Did I blow my motor???
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Did I blow my motor???
Ok, Im gonna make it plain and simple. Today I started up my car and when I rev'd it a little I heard a poof and my engine stared sputtering and shaking. My exhaust became twice as loud and when I started driving, it felt like it only had 70 hp. Also it doesn't keep idle so I have to gas it near 1,500 rpm.
Blown rotor, seals??? Clogged feul injectors??
Im in dire need of help for she is my daily driver...
Part 2 of my question:
If it's a blown rotor, should I rebuild and port or swap to a T2 motor? Which is cheaper?
any suggestions will be appreciated...thanks guys
Blown rotor, seals??? Clogged feul injectors??
Im in dire need of help for she is my daily driver...
Part 2 of my question:
If it's a blown rotor, should I rebuild and port or swap to a T2 motor? Which is cheaper?
any suggestions will be appreciated...thanks guys
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Pretty much sounds like it's dead. Compression check will be your only way of knowing for sure, but i'd bet on it. Rebuild would probably be cheaper ($800+), where-as a tII swap would cost: motor + ecu + fuel pump + wiring harness + pressure sensor + afm
#3
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Ok, Im gonna make it plain and simple. Today I started up my car and when I rev'd it a little I heard a poof and my engine stared sputtering and shaking. My exhaust became twice as loud and when I started driving, it felt like it only had 70 hp. Also it doesn't keep idle so I have to gas it near 1,500 rpm.
Almost sounds like a vacuum leak, could go deeper though.
Part 2 of my question:
If it's a blown rotor, should I rebuild and port or swap to a T2 motor? Which is cheaper?
Doing a swap would mean you have to change trans/rear end and engine, so rebuild/port is cheaper.
Almost sounds like a vacuum leak, could go deeper though.
Part 2 of my question:
If it's a blown rotor, should I rebuild and port or swap to a T2 motor? Which is cheaper?
Doing a swap would mean you have to change trans/rear end and engine, so rebuild/port is cheaper.
#7
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hey bro i had the same prob with my car i was driving *(cruizing then all of a sudden a loud back fire and then my exhaust was popin and would not stop*(felt like drivin a car with blown head no power at all!)* would not idle either , but i drove it home wich was about 4 miles , turns out i broke one of the apex seals and since i drove it broken i messed up my housings and had to get new motor
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#8
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Originally Posted by GTUsRX-7
Not if he has a GTUs like his name says.
A GTUs would still require a tranny & rear-end & driveshaft & halfshaft (not to mention starter) change, just like any other N/A.
Other than that, I can't understand what you mean.
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Most definatly not. The GTUs has an N/a tranny (with a different 5th gear) and a N/a rear diff (with a 4.3 ring & pinion set, with a viscous limited slip).
#14
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Thanks for the feedback guys, but Im just gonna take it to a local (rotary) shop and have them check it out. I'm in no mood to work on my car in this cold weather. Dont have the luxury of a garage. =(
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Don't need it. Just pull the plugs out and have someone crank it and listen. If I can tear my car apart and part it out in -30 to -40F, you surely can do that!
More formal instructions:
Remove both leading plugs (bottom plug on each rotor)
Pull EGI fuse
have someone crank
listen for each rotor to make a 'chug' or 'whoosh' sound, it should go back and forth, you should hear it go back evenly, if only one seems to be making the noise and the other only does it once for every three of the other rotors, or not at all, well then you've figured it out.
More formal instructions:
Remove both leading plugs (bottom plug on each rotor)
Pull EGI fuse
have someone crank
listen for each rotor to make a 'chug' or 'whoosh' sound, it should go back and forth, you should hear it go back evenly, if only one seems to be making the noise and the other only does it once for every three of the other rotors, or not at all, well then you've figured it out.
Last edited by SonicRaT; 01-26-05 at 11:46 PM.
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Im talking about Rp-Performance in Manassas. I just called them and they quoted me $3,200 for a factory replacement engine (12,000 mile warranty) and installation. And when I asked about rebuilding my own engine, they said it would cost more for parts and stuff. (I have a blown rotor). Jesus, might as well look for a new car or somthing. Anyone living near or around northern Virginia willing to trade? I'll pay the difference, whatever we can work out. Im not in any mood to search around for used motors, or to say the least, pay that much for a replacement engine.
I have a black 1989 GTU-S
102,000 Miles on original motor
Current mods:
Racing Beat Cat-back
Apex'i Intake
FD alternator
Brand new clutch and lines, alt belt, tires have about 7~8 mm tread all around...
What you guys think? Or can someone with the know-hows and connections help me out? Im still fairly new to this whole rotary scene. Thanks...
I have a black 1989 GTU-S
102,000 Miles on original motor
Current mods:
Racing Beat Cat-back
Apex'i Intake
FD alternator
Brand new clutch and lines, alt belt, tires have about 7~8 mm tread all around...
What you guys think? Or can someone with the know-hows and connections help me out? Im still fairly new to this whole rotary scene. Thanks...
#20
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Pull the engine . . and check the housings, re-built engines are worth it, why not swap in a TII setup? you have a GTUs its a little less common than GTU,GXL (mine) or SE whatever and how come i've only seen Black GTUs cars, there one on sale here in az for $4500 with bad motor? WTF?
#22
Carter 2.0
Try to rebuild it. What have you got to loose at this point??? For less than $1000 you would have a nice car, considering all the Mods already on it.
I bought my Vert in October. It had a weak motor. With the help of the people on this board I have the motor ready to crack open. Last step will happen today. All the internals will be inspected and the replacement parts will be ordered.
I never saw a rotory engine B4. I've built Chevys and VWs before, but like I said I never even saw a Rotory b4 this project started. So far It has been really fun tackling each step. The Rexs have some pretty strangely located items as well as some proprietary items that will confuse you at first but search this board and you find a picture and explanation of almost everything in your motor.
10 years ago this would not be possible. The information found on this board is like having a factory tech hanging around in your garage.
Rebuild the motor, you'll 'feel' so much better.
I bought my Vert in October. It had a weak motor. With the help of the people on this board I have the motor ready to crack open. Last step will happen today. All the internals will be inspected and the replacement parts will be ordered.
I never saw a rotory engine B4. I've built Chevys and VWs before, but like I said I never even saw a Rotory b4 this project started. So far It has been really fun tackling each step. The Rexs have some pretty strangely located items as well as some proprietary items that will confuse you at first but search this board and you find a picture and explanation of almost everything in your motor.
10 years ago this would not be possible. The information found on this board is like having a factory tech hanging around in your garage.
Rebuild the motor, you'll 'feel' so much better.
#23
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id say buy the atkins rebuild video, buy a atkins rebuild kit, or another one of your choice and rebuild it, also it wouldnt hurt to buy the porting templates from racing beat. just find something to drive for a month or so.
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