RboYi

I'm getting really fustrated with this car. It's left me stranded at home soo many times. Anyways a long story short, i dont want to fix my injectors because i dont think its worth my time or money. i'm getting a swap within a month i hope.

so what i was told to do was to depressurize the fuel system by removing the fuel pump relay. I did this for about half a week and it worked flawlessly. then this morning somehow it FLOODED again, i pulled the fuel pump relay to turn off the car.

what is going on now?

Icemark

probably low compression

or starting proceedure (you do know you are not supposed to touch the accell pedal when starting???)

RboYi

yea i don't touch the accel pedal when i start, i try to even avoid the "ignition" part so the fuel pump doesnt turn on. i have an engine compression tester but it didnt seem to mate in with 4 different types of fittings. how much is a rotary compression tester?

Icemark

Fuel pump won't turn on until you start cranking anyway, so that wouldn't matter.

Any normal compression checker should go right in, but a true Rotary tester would be as much as the car is worth.

HAILERS

If you make a SEARCH and write in the words COMPRESSION TESTER and put it in the 3rd Gen section, you'll get several hits and if you search those threads you'll find several DIY Compression Testers. I don't mean a mechanical one.

See this thread and the use of a DATQ 148U (cost pennies) for compression testing the MODERN way. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...1&page=1&pp=15

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=compression

http://www.dataq.com/products/startkit/di148.htm

And, as is commonly known, there is another way to avoid flooding, at least on a S4. You need to disable the pre-programmed fuel delivery at START only. HOW? you say??????? Easy. The ECU knows when you start by a 12dc signal from the Start circuit. Sooooooo, disable that signal. Then the ECU does NOT know your starting the engine. It now uses the afm for fuel delivery instead of the preset Start Map in the ECU. It's pin 3B, a black/blue wire on the small ECU plug. Bottom row, far right.

You can depin the wires in a plug using a small jewelers common screwdriver or a toothpick size decice (but stiffer).

Get the engine hot. Pull the wire. Go drive the car and turn it off and restart the engine. Do that a number of times. You should be a happier person.

Syonyk

HAILERS: How would that affect cold starting, and specifically "really really cold" starting (below freezing)?

-=Russ=-

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

never heard of that one

HAILERS

Introduce a relay that uses the water temperature switch on the bottom of the radiator as a ground for the new relay.

The water temp switch *makes* at around 65 degrees. When the relay *makes*, it will puill in the new relay and interrupt the signal to the ECU on pin 3B.

If you use the power from pin 3B for the power for the relay then the relay will only be pulled in when the key is to put to Start (and the water temp is over 65).

It'd be be better to have another source of switching other than the water temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. One that pulls the relay in at a temperature higher than 65 degrees. I'm working on that aspect. S5 don't have a water temperature switch on the bottom of the radiator, so I've no cheap/quick answer for a S5 car.

JCAR makes some kits, one of which might work for this new relay. It's in the mail. By the way, they sell a Freq converter switch kit that you can tie to your tach signal and set to turn relays/stuff on/off. I just made one of those kits. Just need to find a reason to use it. Cart before the horse thing.

HAILERS

That last post was wordy. The new relay means that water temps below 65 the ECU uses the normal method of starting the engine. Once above 65 the relay bypasses the Start Fuel Map in the ECU and the mixture is leaner. Just what your looking for in a car that floods when hot. Cars that flood when cold........need not apply.

I'll post a real simple diagram tomorrow or late tonight. Trust me, if I made it, it's simple.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Umm what? You need clean injectors no matter what. Just about all my flooding problems went away when I got mine clean, provided that I have fresh plugs in there.

You say you're going to get a swap of some sort soon. Either you clean your stock injectors or if you're doing a T2 swap, you clean those 550 injectors. If your compression is checking out fine then don't bitch about flooding if you're unwilling to get your injectors cleaned.

AlexG13B

iTrader: (7)

I'm interested in this. My s4 tii always floods when its the engine is hot.

HAILERS

And go to the RX-8 forum sometime and read the ENDLESS list of FLOODING problems on the RX-8. How long has that car been in service? Not long.

Just FYI if there is something not being understood about the starting procedure and the ECU: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...hmentid=150447

TII-aholic

hailers i just did the pin removal thing and my car now starts perfect EVERYTIME!!! im very happy now....your the man!

HAILERS

Something like this:

RETed

Why aren't you guys installing fuel pump cut-out switches???


-Ted

HAILERS

Just watch out for cold weather. When the temps get below 60 it gets a touch harder to start, but will start if you feather the pedal a bit. Once started it should run normal because the Start Fuel Map is out of the way.

HAILERS

Because it's a second rate, no, third rate method, and I don't have to FLIP A DAMN SWITCH on and off when I start the car when it's hot. It addresses the real problem which is the Start Map in the ECU.

RETed

It's a nice secondary theft deterrent.


-Ted

arghx

iTrader: (3)

umm

i still don't get why he won't clean his injectors. I never have flooding problems with clean injectors and clean plugs.