Hey guys, I'm new to the FC world. I used to have a 85 GSL-SE and I just picked up a 88' TII. The thing with it is that it has a blown coolant seal. The guy that I bought it from had said that the car was bubbling the coolant and they drove it until one day it wouldn't start. It has set since last fall. A friend told me that there might be a chance that since there is probably coolant in the rotor chambers and since it has sit so long that a) I wont be able to get the block apart and b) there wont be anything useful anyway because the coolant will have rusted everything together, The car appears to have antifreeze in it but who knows what is in the block... my question is what is the chance that he is right? I'm going to start pulling it next weekend and tear into it, I'm hoping for the best.. also would the reason it didnt wouldn't start be because of the fact the coolant is keeping the seals from making compression?

 

Can you get it to turn over?

 

honestly haven't tried yet. do they really rust up so bad that they dont turn? I was thinking about dumping some ATF in it to dry up the coolant and maybe (frown) eat some rust

 

Try cranking it over first. If nothing (and you're sure you have all connections made and a good starter) then try a lil ATF.

If nothing, try a bump start to un-stick the motor. But if its that bad you're going to need a new one anyways!

 

so... if the motor is frozen I'll probably not be able to get it apart and there probably wont be anything useful in the engine anyway right?

 

Eh, i dont want to say no, it all depends on the shape that its in....

 

well hoping for the best... TII irons seem to be hard to find.

 

One step at a time my friend... i always hope for the best. Maybe the last guy that owned it was silly and all it needed was some fresh windsheild washer fluid?

HAHA

 

My TII sat for 3 years after a massive coolant seal failure, but came apart easily. Also, most of the internals were not notably damaged.

Keep in mind the car could have likely overheated when the seals failed (for example, mine failed on a 400 mile trip, and I averaged about 8 miles to a gallon OF WATER nursing it home). If so, the housings may very well be warped.

 

the rotor housings are the things that would most likely warp right? that might explain why is stopped running...

 

The engine is probably trash. If it sat around with coolant in it, then the rotors and irons will be very rusted. Seals will be stuck, the plates will be pitted, and you may find that the rotors are actually rusted to the plates.

Water pumping engines that sit generally turn into scrap metal.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nt_damage.html

 

I guess that we'll see, I just got it to start so I'm going to see what I can do. at least it's not rusted solid

 

I'm going down to the where it is tonight to work on it... I was wondering on a side note if anyone has every used a 6 port block with turbo rotors in a tII before? I know that I would have to use the N/A LIM and a spacer for the turbo manifold but it might be a cheaper and unique solution to getting another 4 port block if it comes to that.

 

There's no need to make such a thing. Since the entire block comes apart, and you already have t2 irons, it'd be foolish not to reuse them. It's not like the (usually higher mileage) NA 6 port irons are in any way superior to the turbo irons. Not to mention poorer flow and fitment issues.

Since the seals cost the same regardless of what housings/irons/rotors you run, there's no reason to hack something together that way that doesnt suit your needs.

 

My engine i pulled apart had bad coolant seals and it damaged the irons by causing the metal to break/flake off where the seal had failed.

 

Well, since you got the engine running, it cannot be bad at all. The seals would be rusted stuck if it were very bad. If you have enough compression to start without the aid of oil/atf/pullstarting, then it should be in pretty decent shape to rebuild.

If you have a coolant seal motor that needs to sit for a while before it can come apart:

1) DRAIN THE COOLANT. Since you know you have a pathway between the coolant system and the combustion chamber, and you dont want the combustion chamber to rust, don't let any coolant get inside.

2) Start the engine, after draining the coolant, and let it run for 15-30 seconds or so. It won't cause any damage to the engine, but it will blow out/burn off any remaining coolant in the chambers. Now, when you shut it down, there's no leftover coolant to drain into the chamber and cause rust.

3) Shoot a bunch of oil/atf/whatever into the chambers and spin the engine (by hand or with the starter) to coat the internals and keep the seals from sticking. The internals will be in prime condition when it gets torn down for rebuild...that is, they will be in as good condition as they are now.

 

well it did start and run without anything, but then died and my dad tried to get it started and cranked on it over and over before I got home and flooded the crap out of it. So I did use a little ATF to get it started but it ran good and it ran hard (besides the coolant getting pushed out) so I'm feeling like it could be in decent shape. Thanks for all the help I just started pulling it our yesterday so we'll see...

 

Did you just try un-flooding it first?? Pull the EGI fuse and crank the motor over for a few seconds to clear the combustion chambers, then put the fuse back in and try again...

What?

Started pulling out the motor?

 

the coolant getting pushed out of the reservoir while the engine is running. I didn't try pulling the EGI because I didn't have my manual yet and I didn't which one it was (my old one was an 85' so it was of course different) and I dont care about the cats and yes I am pulling the engine out to go through it

 

Hey, congrats on the buy. I was thinking of buying that car for a while but wasn't sure on how much damage had been done to the irons since the coolant had been sitting in it for so long. I'm from Bellevue, IA, which is about 20 minutes south of Dubuque. If you need TII parts, look up Seshoumaru or E_Dogg on here in the Midwest section. They've got some core engines around I believe.