Ocelot

Is the long red cable w/the spade on the end the power plug? Where can I hook it up?

Ocelot

Do I perhaps get it from the green plug on the tower right neer the pressure sensor? Seems like the closest option.

YearsOfDecay

Yep, thats where most people get it...... doesn't it say that on the bottom of the instructions i sent ya????? (thats why the red wire is just about that long!!!!!!)

I guess I'm gonna have to put a picture of it on my instructions like i did with the s4's!!!!!

but dammit, i diddn't have the same dumbass girlfriend i did when i made the s4 directions..... the present ho-bag got the s-5 directions and hooked one up without pictures!!!!!!

Not tyring to pick on ya Ocelot, the newest model girlfriend has a masters degree, but i figured "ya know, its still a car and she IS a woman!!!!")

Ocelot

Oops, i'm retarded, don't mind me, lol

NZConvertible

Why bother doing that whan there's 12V right at the pressure sensor? That's how all the others are wired.

SureShot

Mazda changed that in 89.

NZConvertible

You learn something new every day.

YearsOfDecay

quote:
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
Why bother doing that whan there's 12V right at the pressure sensor? That's how all the others are wired.
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Quote:
Mazda changed that in 89.
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yeah... thats why there is a 15 dollar difference in the FCD's that RB and HKS sell,.... the 89-91 series only have 5v in the pressure sensor circuit,,,, so in order to run the FCD circuit, you either have to run a seperate wire, or add a 5vDC to 12V dc converter to the circuit.. reliable DC-DC converters that are small enough to be useful in a FCD are about 10 bucks from most of the electronics suppliers...

I can make mine like that... but nobody wants to spend the extra 10 bucks and, really, I agree, why?, when there is a 12v source right there and all it does is look a little cleaner...?????

Donn Hecht

I wanna know whats so special, or rather diffrent about this particular "Fuel Cut" defense ? Comparing to the lets say RB, or the HKS, also the radio shack special, like a friend of mine made for my Turbo II. It works awesome, and according to him, if you use different types of resiistors, for example lets say the fuel cut defense with a "Blue" transitor would be for lets say 14 lbs from what he tells me. And the Red one would be good for more boost lets say 20 lbs. So in other words what does this fuel cut due "Technically Speaking compared to the most common ones everyone knows about ? What makes it so special than the rest ?

Donn Hecht

Years of decay do you have any pics of the Creeping Death LED Pillar Stealth Mount shift light ? Also what color does the light show when the shift **** illuminates ?

YearsOfDecay

The modified shift light can be seen here:
http://mysite.verizon.net/res1f3en/id6.html

Basically, I modified a "proform" shiftlight to work off LED's, used Superbright 3500MCD LED's, and mounted them flush to the A-pillar, then mounted the works under the dash.

Right now, I'm still working on the circuitry for the stand alone light of my own, However, for those guys running Haltech's, the kit is simple, its a set of LED's (in any color you want) mounted and wired on a board with a relay to hook to the switched out of the haltech.

YearsOfDecay

ANY fcd is good for ANY amount of boost over the stock boost. The FCD simply limits the voltage sent out to the ECU from the Boost sensor. But there are two ways of doing it and one is not quite as good as the other.

As far as "TRANsistor", i don't know of any FCD's that use "transistors"

The Simple "REsistor" type of FCD, which i think is what your friend is talking about, just uses a resistor in line with the boost signal. By adding a resistor of a certain value, you can "squish" the voltage curve down. For example, with the "blue" resistor you could lower the voltage reading at 14 PSI to under 3.7 volts and thus avoid fuel cut and then hit fuel cut at 15 psi when the voltage would rise above 3.7 volts.

the same would hold true for the "Red" 20 lb resistor which would be a heavy enough resistor to limit the voltage produced by the boost sensor to under 3.7 volts at 20 PSI. (however, the stock boost sensor aint gonna hold it anyway!!)

HERE IS THE PROBLEM. these types of FCD's are not selective, they will lower the voltage over the ENTIRE boost range. therefore.... if you have the 14 PSI resistor in... at 7 PSI, the FCD is going to be telling the cumputer that its only getting about 3 PSI, and the computer will only add fuel for 3 psi....

The FCD's that I make allow the voltage that comes from the boost sensor to travel freely through to the ecu up to about 8.25 PSI... therefore, the ECU is getting the info from the sensor exactly as it would if the FCD isn't there, up to 8.25 PSI. When 8.25 PSI is reached, this type of FCD then switches the signal from the actual boost signal to one that is "clamped" at 8.25 psi and holds that signal no matter how high the boost goes. therefore, this type of FCD is good for ANY amount of boost without having to change the resistors.

Also... this type of FCD makes using a piggyback like a SAFC a lot easier... you know that the FCD is going to clamp the boost signal at 8.25 psi and hold it there.... Therefore, if you tie the SAFCII's throttle input to the boost sensor (which you HAVE to do anyway if you have an 87or 88) it will "learn" the 100% boost (throttle on the screen) is at 3.64 volts and set that as 100% on the screen. Then you simply have the SAFC start dumping in fuel by RPM after the boost (throttle on the screen) hits 100%.

Basically, this type of FCD is a bit more precise than just using the current limiting resistor and less prone to "trial and error"