Crazy Wiring Help me please im stummmped. GURUS needed for this one! Seriously
06-14-09, 10:35 PM
#1
Crazy Wiring Help me please im stummmped. GURUS needed for this one! Seriously
car-88 Vert.
microtech= no factory engine harness
Im doing a wire tuck on the chassis harness because the car has microtech so there isn't a factory engine harness just the microtech harness. Now to start with, i unwrap (take all the tap loom ect off) my harness(located on the drivers side of the car) and i see theres wires that hae been cut everywere and stuffs hacked up but the car ran without it forever like that so it should still run without it. Anyhow the harness at this moment is running outside of the car but the fuse box and cpu are all plugged in. I been working on this problem for days now im just stummmped. There is no engine in the car at this moment nor is the microtech. so i got the harness laying out on the ground and i plugged in my headlights, put all my relays in, plugged in my headlight motors, plugged in just my drivers side front blinker, ddn/t plug in my side marker light, plugged in all my brake switches/ clutch switches, plugged in my gauge cluster, idiot cluster, and dash surround, mirrior switch, harness that runs to the rear of the car. plugged in my wipers. did not plug in my sterring wheel turn signal cancel thing. NOW everything is plugged in for the most part. I ground the plug ground thats under Tcoil pack, The ground thats above the steering column, Another ground that just needed to be grounded, and a wire that has 3 fat black wires running into one and on the end of it it has a black single wire connector plug. Onto to the Pass Side of the car. there is no heat, a/c or anything in the car so theres alot of extra plugs just chillin. So the previous owner(s) cut both the yellow plugs that plug into the ECU off so theres no plugs on them. The harness that runs on the Pass side of the car that has 2 Brownish plugs that clip onto the black clips under the dash on the right side of the wall right infront of the door.., One of them plugs runs your wipers and they have it also running my alternator, Now the other plug they cut the harness about 5 inches away from the brown plug and hooked up the fuel pump really to one wire and the IGN. to another wire. all of this is hard to explain. My problem is Half of my fuse box dosnet get power, the row that DOES get power has the, antenna, stop, room, and a couple others in the row. I have Headlights, HIgh beams and low, Dash Lights, Hazards, i have brake lights and tailights. BUT NO turn signals, NO power to the window switches, NO power to the mirrior switches, NO power to my IGNITION switch, not to any of the acc, or anything, My wipers Don't turn on, My top switch Don't work. NOTHING on my idiot cluster comes on. Most of that hooks to my fuse box and im not gettign power to most of it so thats why that stuff don't work im assuming. My main fuse box is hooked up with all the fuses in it. HEEEEEEELLLLLLPPPPPPP been at this for days, am im missing a ground or does the harness on the pass side have to be hooked up idk im lost now. is there a ground on the Pass side harness.
I have a Video i made but I cannot Host it on youtube cuz its over 10min is there another place i can host it so i can post it up. Will make things alot eaiser
microtech= no factory engine harness
Im doing a wire tuck on the chassis harness because the car has microtech so there isn't a factory engine harness just the microtech harness. Now to start with, i unwrap (take all the tap loom ect off) my harness(located on the drivers side of the car) and i see theres wires that hae been cut everywere and stuffs hacked up but the car ran without it forever like that so it should still run without it. Anyhow the harness at this moment is running outside of the car but the fuse box and cpu are all plugged in. I been working on this problem for days now im just stummmped. There is no engine in the car at this moment nor is the microtech. so i got the harness laying out on the ground and i plugged in my headlights, put all my relays in, plugged in my headlight motors, plugged in just my drivers side front blinker, ddn/t plug in my side marker light, plugged in all my brake switches/ clutch switches, plugged in my gauge cluster, idiot cluster, and dash surround, mirrior switch, harness that runs to the rear of the car. plugged in my wipers. did not plug in my sterring wheel turn signal cancel thing. NOW everything is plugged in for the most part. I ground the plug ground thats under Tcoil pack, The ground thats above the steering column, Another ground that just needed to be grounded, and a wire that has 3 fat black wires running into one and on the end of it it has a black single wire connector plug. Onto to the Pass Side of the car. there is no heat, a/c or anything in the car so theres alot of extra plugs just chillin. So the previous owner(s) cut both the yellow plugs that plug into the ECU off so theres no plugs on them. The harness that runs on the Pass side of the car that has 2 Brownish plugs that clip onto the black clips under the dash on the right side of the wall right infront of the door.., One of them plugs runs your wipers and they have it also running my alternator, Now the other plug they cut the harness about 5 inches away from the brown plug and hooked up the fuel pump really to one wire and the IGN. to another wire. all of this is hard to explain. My problem is Half of my fuse box dosnet get power, the row that DOES get power has the, antenna, stop, room, and a couple others in the row. I have Headlights, HIgh beams and low, Dash Lights, Hazards, i have brake lights and tailights. BUT NO turn signals, NO power to the window switches, NO power to the mirrior switches, NO power to my IGNITION switch, not to any of the acc, or anything, My wipers Don't turn on, My top switch Don't work. NOTHING on my idiot cluster comes on. Most of that hooks to my fuse box and im not gettign power to most of it so thats why that stuff don't work im assuming. My main fuse box is hooked up with all the fuses in it. HEEEEEEELLLLLLPPPPPPP been at this for days, am im missing a ground or does the harness on the pass side have to be hooked up idk im lost now. is there a ground on the Pass side harness.
I have a Video i made but I cannot Host it on youtube cuz its over 10min is there another place i can host it so i can post it up. Will make things alot eaiser
06-15-09, 02:58 AM
#4
Smoke moar
06-15-09, 03:18 AM
#5
If that is a custom wiring harness made for the microtech then there is no telling what its going to without tracing every wire back yourself. When you are refering to the plugs about the harness, it reads like you are refering to a stock wiring harness that has been cut and spliced to retro-fit a microtech, so which is it?
06-15-09, 08:00 AM
#6
Rotary Freak
Electrical power distribution works like the second jpg attached show.
Power comes from the engine bay fuse box on a single black wire (that is also spliced to the alt output wire) that goes to the single black wire at the ignition switch.
You turn the key to ON and power passes thru the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to the two busses called IG1 and IG2. The fuses on those two busses do not have power until the key is put to ON, unlike the BATT bus that has power all the time, key on or key off.
Look at the first jpg that shows the interior fuse box. You can see which fuses are on IG1 and IG2. Plus it shows the items on the BATT bus and the ACC bus.
IG2 will also not have power if the key is HELD to START. Common sense. The ACC will have power also when the key is held to ACC. Common sense.
Headlights have nothing to do with the interior fuse box, so they work without the key in the ignition. Same with Retractors.
The interior fuse box has a BATT bus. It has power with or without the key in the ignition. It is fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
Your car can't be fixed from here. All I can say is what was said above. You need power to the BLACK wire at the ignition switch. I mean there are about three plugs at the ignition switch. One is a connector with two wires. ONe is pure black and the other wire black/white. The BLACK one comes from the engine bay fuse box and powers the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to ON, power passes from the Black wire to the Black/White wire and feeds IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box. Power also passes from the Black wire to the B/R wire to feed IG2 fuses.
No power to the BLACK wire from the engine bay fuse box means the only fuses in the interior getting power are the ones on the BATT bus in the interior fuse box.
See second jpg attached for how stuff works. Your car cannot be fixed from here.
Power comes from the engine bay fuse box on a single black wire (that is also spliced to the alt output wire) that goes to the single black wire at the ignition switch.
You turn the key to ON and power passes thru the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to the two busses called IG1 and IG2. The fuses on those two busses do not have power until the key is put to ON, unlike the BATT bus that has power all the time, key on or key off.
Look at the first jpg that shows the interior fuse box. You can see which fuses are on IG1 and IG2. Plus it shows the items on the BATT bus and the ACC bus.
IG2 will also not have power if the key is HELD to START. Common sense. The ACC will have power also when the key is held to ACC. Common sense.
Headlights have nothing to do with the interior fuse box, so they work without the key in the ignition. Same with Retractors.
The interior fuse box has a BATT bus. It has power with or without the key in the ignition. It is fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
Your car can't be fixed from here. All I can say is what was said above. You need power to the BLACK wire at the ignition switch. I mean there are about three plugs at the ignition switch. One is a connector with two wires. ONe is pure black and the other wire black/white. The BLACK one comes from the engine bay fuse box and powers the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to ON, power passes from the Black wire to the Black/White wire and feeds IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box. Power also passes from the Black wire to the B/R wire to feed IG2 fuses.
No power to the BLACK wire from the engine bay fuse box means the only fuses in the interior getting power are the ones on the BATT bus in the interior fuse box.
See second jpg attached for how stuff works. Your car cannot be fixed from here.
06-15-09, 08:09 AM
#7
Rotary Freak
Two harness run on the left side of the engine bay. The ENGINE harness and the Front harness.
The harness that runs on the right side of the engine bay is the EM harness. That EM harness also plugs into the FRONT harness (FRONT harness runs across the foot area of the passenger and driver......enters the engine bay and runs fwd all the way fwd and crosses from the left front of the engine bay to the right front of the engine bay.
When you look at any wire in the wiring diagrams you'll see the color of the wire (like L/B for Blue/Black) plus you'll see a letter to the right of the color in a ( ) {like (F) for FRONT harness}.
The wiring diagrams show where the FRONT, REAR, EM and the other harness are located in the car. See your local FSM.
The harness that runs on the right side of the engine bay is the EM harness. That EM harness also plugs into the FRONT harness (FRONT harness runs across the foot area of the passenger and driver......enters the engine bay and runs fwd all the way fwd and crosses from the left front of the engine bay to the right front of the engine bay.
When you look at any wire in the wiring diagrams you'll see the color of the wire (like L/B for Blue/Black) plus you'll see a letter to the right of the color in a ( ) {like (F) for FRONT harness}.
The wiring diagrams show where the FRONT, REAR, EM and the other harness are located in the car. See your local FSM.
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06-15-09, 10:26 AM
#8
If that is a custom wiring harness made for the microtech then there is no telling what its going to without tracing every wire back yourself. When you are refering to the plugs about the harness, it reads like you are refering to a stock wiring harness that has been cut and spliced to retro-fit a microtech, so which is it?
06-15-09, 10:29 AM
#9
Electrical power distribution works like the second jpg attached show.
Power comes from the engine bay fuse box on a single black wire (that is also spliced to the alt output wire) that goes to the single black wire at the ignition switch.
You turn the key to ON and power passes thru the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to the two busses called IG1 and IG2. The fuses on those two busses do not have power until the key is put to ON, unlike the BATT bus that has power all the time, key on or key off.
Look at the first jpg that shows the interior fuse box. You can see which fuses are on IG1 and IG2. Plus it shows the items on the BATT bus and the ACC bus.
IG2 will also not have power if the key is HELD to START. Common sense. The ACC will have power also when the key is held to ACC. Common sense.
Headlights have nothing to do with the interior fuse box, so they work without the key in the ignition. Same with Retractors.
The interior fuse box has a BATT bus. It has power with or without the key in the ignition. It is fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
Your car can't be fixed from here. All I can say is what was said above. You need power to the BLACK wire at the ignition switch. I mean there are about three plugs at the ignition switch. One is a connector with two wires. ONe is pure black and the other wire black/white. The BLACK one comes from the engine bay fuse box and powers the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to ON, power passes from the Black wire to the Black/White wire and feeds IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box. Power also passes from the Black wire to the B/R wire to feed IG2 fuses.
No power to the BLACK wire from the engine bay fuse box means the only fuses in the interior getting power are the ones on the BATT bus in the interior fuse box.
See second jpg attached for how stuff works. Your car cannot be fixed from here.
Power comes from the engine bay fuse box on a single black wire (that is also spliced to the alt output wire) that goes to the single black wire at the ignition switch.
You turn the key to ON and power passes thru the ignition switch to the interior fuse box to the two busses called IG1 and IG2. The fuses on those two busses do not have power until the key is put to ON, unlike the BATT bus that has power all the time, key on or key off.
Look at the first jpg that shows the interior fuse box. You can see which fuses are on IG1 and IG2. Plus it shows the items on the BATT bus and the ACC bus.
IG2 will also not have power if the key is HELD to START. Common sense. The ACC will have power also when the key is held to ACC. Common sense.
Headlights have nothing to do with the interior fuse box, so they work without the key in the ignition. Same with Retractors.
The interior fuse box has a BATT bus. It has power with or without the key in the ignition. It is fed from the BTN fuse in the engine bay.
Your car can't be fixed from here. All I can say is what was said above. You need power to the BLACK wire at the ignition switch. I mean there are about three plugs at the ignition switch. One is a connector with two wires. ONe is pure black and the other wire black/white. The BLACK one comes from the engine bay fuse box and powers the ignition switch.
When you turn the key to ON, power passes from the Black wire to the Black/White wire and feeds IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box. Power also passes from the Black wire to the B/R wire to feed IG2 fuses.
No power to the BLACK wire from the engine bay fuse box means the only fuses in the interior getting power are the ones on the BATT bus in the interior fuse box.
See second jpg attached for how stuff works. Your car cannot be fixed from here.
THank you Thank you THank you. I will update!
06-15-09, 11:13 AM
#10
Rotary Freak
For the wipers........pull the plug off the wiper motor. Check the BLUE wire for power with the key to ON.
IF it has power, put the plug back on the wiper motor. Then strip a piece of wire bare at each end. Put one end of that wire up the backside of either the Blue/Red wire or Blue/White wire in the wiper motors elect plug.
Then with the key ON, put the other end of that wire to a ground. There should be a ground point just inboard of the wiper motor. Or just any bare place on the chassis. Motor should run.
IF there is no power on the BLUE wire, then look inside the passengers side of the car at the ORANGE plug (you called it brown colored) that has fifteen pins/sockets (see attached jpg). The four wires on the end of the plug that are L/W, L/W, L and L/Y are wiper wires. The L or Blue one comes from the interior fuse box and should have power on it. It comes directly from the interior fuse box. No connector inbetween.
IF there is no power on the BLUE wire, its because the fuses on the IG2 row of fuse don't have power. Power is fed to those IG1 and IG2 fuses just as I explained in my earlier post. The key is put to ON and power flows from the BLACK wire of the igniton plug to the BLACK/WHITE wire of the ignition plug and on to the interior fuse box and the IG1 row of fuses. The same BLACK wire feeds the B/R or black/red wire at the ignition switch and that feeds IG2 row of fuses where the 15a WIPER fuse is.
In my humble opinion you need to pull the three plugs off the ignition switch and see if there is power on the PURE BLACK wire ....or not. The SOFT TOP fuse is also on the row of fuses on IG2. Might also explain why the top does not work.
IF it has power, put the plug back on the wiper motor. Then strip a piece of wire bare at each end. Put one end of that wire up the backside of either the Blue/Red wire or Blue/White wire in the wiper motors elect plug.
Then with the key ON, put the other end of that wire to a ground. There should be a ground point just inboard of the wiper motor. Or just any bare place on the chassis. Motor should run.
IF there is no power on the BLUE wire, then look inside the passengers side of the car at the ORANGE plug (you called it brown colored) that has fifteen pins/sockets (see attached jpg). The four wires on the end of the plug that are L/W, L/W, L and L/Y are wiper wires. The L or Blue one comes from the interior fuse box and should have power on it. It comes directly from the interior fuse box. No connector inbetween.
IF there is no power on the BLUE wire, its because the fuses on the IG2 row of fuse don't have power. Power is fed to those IG1 and IG2 fuses just as I explained in my earlier post. The key is put to ON and power flows from the BLACK wire of the igniton plug to the BLACK/WHITE wire of the ignition plug and on to the interior fuse box and the IG1 row of fuses. The same BLACK wire feeds the B/R or black/red wire at the ignition switch and that feeds IG2 row of fuses where the 15a WIPER fuse is.
In my humble opinion you need to pull the three plugs off the ignition switch and see if there is power on the PURE BLACK wire ....or not. The SOFT TOP fuse is also on the row of fuses on IG2. Might also explain why the top does not work.
06-15-09, 01:15 PM
#11
HAILERS2 your the man. THnaks for helping me. I been looking at all the wires for just way to long. As soon as i walked up to it i seen the problem. i just had the black wire for the IGN switch touching a ground. everythign seems to work. My idiot surround only seems to show seat belt symbole and the damn coolent buzzer keeps going off. That things enough to drive anyone crazy. It dosn't show my doors are open and my lights at the bottom of the door don't work. But im pumped everythign else works. i knew it was somthign so stupid. Now this plug (orange) its not the wiper one its the other one. the plug is cut off and the SOLID brown wire was hooked up to the green wire for the microtech wich is for the fuel pump relay. Theres 2 BLACK/WHITE wires they tied together and ran to the pink wire of the microtech and that would be IGN. 12v. Theres a BLACK/YELLOW with a but connector on the end i have no clue what they had it ran to. All the other wires aren't used. Can you link me up to what these wires to this plug goes to?
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06-15-09, 01:40 PM
#12
Rotary Freak
First things first. The buzzer.........go to the low water sender in the middle top of the radiator. Pull the single wire plug apart. Now ground the part of the brown wire that isn't a part of the sender itself. The buzzer should stop right away.
If it does not, then the buzzer could be caused by low oil. Engines not in the car though. Probably not that. So gnd the brown wire on the top of the radiator.
EDIT: I forget what the brown wire in the center does. I'll find out later. Jpg attached.
Evidently they used the black/yellow and black/white for Switched power for /?? something.
If it does not, then the buzzer could be caused by low oil. Engines not in the car though. Probably not that. So gnd the brown wire on the top of the radiator.
EDIT: I forget what the brown wire in the center does. I'll find out later. Jpg attached.
Evidently they used the black/yellow and black/white for Switched power for /?? something.
06-15-09, 01:42 PM
#13
First things first. The buzzer.........go to the low water sender in the middle top of the radiator. Pull the single wire plug apart. Now ground the part of the brown wire that isn't a part of the sender itself. The buzzer should stop right away.
If it does not, then the buzzer could be caused by low oil. Engines not in the car though. Probably not that. So gnd the brown wire on the top of the radiator.
If it does not, then the buzzer could be caused by low oil. Engines not in the car though. Probably not that. So gnd the brown wire on the top of the radiator.
06-15-09, 03:01 PM
#14
Rotary Freak
Oh. Thaaaaat BROWN wire. On the stock car, that brown wire caused the Circuit Opening Relay to stay latched. It did that thru the micro switch in the AFM. When the vane in the afm moved approx 1/18" aft, the switch made and put a ground on the BROWN wire. The brown wire traveled thru the X-16 plug to one of the two coils inside the circuit opening relay and latched in that relay. That fed powered up the fuel pump.
The MicroTech must do the same thing........put a gnd on the brown wire to energize the circuit opening relay to feed the fuel pump.
Grounding that single wire/brown wire that goes to the low level sensor on top of the radiator should kill the buzzer. OR just pull the plug off the CPU. I forget which of the three plugs on the CPU.
If the WHITE/BLACK wire on the alternators small plug is put to gnd, all the Warning Lights should come on. Make sure it's not the BLACK/WHITE you put to gnd or you''ll blow the Engine fuse.
The MicroTech must do the same thing........put a gnd on the brown wire to energize the circuit opening relay to feed the fuel pump.
Grounding that single wire/brown wire that goes to the low level sensor on top of the radiator should kill the buzzer. OR just pull the plug off the CPU. I forget which of the three plugs on the CPU.
If the WHITE/BLACK wire on the alternators small plug is put to gnd, all the Warning Lights should come on. Make sure it's not the BLACK/WHITE you put to gnd or you''ll blow the Engine fuse.
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