Crap Inside my Waterneck!!!
02-15-09, 05:14 PM
#1
Crap Inside my Waterneck!!!
Well after i got my jdm s4 TII motor in the car and seen it had great compression i decided to do a full gasket change and clean up of the manifolds and things to refresh it a bit. Well i pulled the uim, lim and water pump housing off to clean, and when i took the waterneck off i found this!!! wat do you think this could be?? looks as if it dosent go past the thermostat..lol
02-16-09, 01:04 AM
#7
This is why you strip the engine and replace everything before sticking it in a car...If it's been sitting around in a junkyard for a long time, it's going to have all sorts of nasty crap in/on it.
I'd pull the entire waterpump housing and clean it out with a wire brush. The waterpump will likely be corroded too if you kept the original.
I'd pull the entire waterpump housing and clean it out with a wire brush. The waterpump will likely be corroded too if you kept the original.
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02-16-09, 10:05 AM
#11
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This is why you strip the engine and replace everything before sticking it in a car...If it's been sitting around in a junkyard for a long time, it's going to have all sorts of nasty crap in/on it.
I'd pull the entire waterpump housing and clean it out with a wire brush. The waterpump will likely be corroded too if you kept the original.
I'd pull the entire waterpump housing and clean it out with a wire brush. The waterpump will likely be corroded too if you kept the original.
My motor blew becuase of a cracked SIDE SEAL that was most likely caused by carbon buildup. Had I opened the motor the reas tof the cooling system would be clean and the motor would more than likely have held together. Open the motor up, clean out the cooling passages, rebuild the motor and make sure that all the carbon buildup is removed from the rotors. Don't make the same mistake that I did
02-16-09, 01:43 PM
#12
well i got the car as a trade so i dont have the money to open it up, ill just flush it as good as i can and see wat happens...from wat your describing to me is that you had crap in everything when you took the outter cooling system parts off...mine just had it in the thermostat the rest looks just like my original 88TII motor that i took out of my TII so it dosent look messed up... all else fails ill keep my half bridge motor and put that in there if this motor goes...lol
02-16-09, 03:30 PM
#13
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i know it hurts but go the extra mile and $ and open the engine up and see whats the deal inside if u got that **** out of the neck I'm pretty sure the coolant jackets are full of that ****.
02-16-09, 05:39 PM
#14
You're jumping to conclusions based on the piece of **** engine that you bought. Not every engine will have the entire block full of this sort of crap, so if the OP is lucky it'll be limited the water pump area. Your logic is that you should rebuild every engine regardless of compression or overall condition, when that's clearly not needed in a lot of cases.
02-16-09, 08:17 PM
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well i got the car as a trade so i dont have the money to open it up, ill just flush it as good as i can and see wat happens...from wat your describing to me is that you had crap in everything when you took the outter cooling system parts off...mine just had it in the thermostat the rest looks just like my original 88TII motor that i took out of my TII so it dosent look messed up... all else fails ill keep my half bridge motor and put that in there if this motor goes...lol
It's called a starting point. Obviously, if you can see evidence of more crap through the front iron, coolant drain, heater lines, etc..., you're going to want to do some further cleaning. Water soluble substances like that solidifed coolant can be purged with...guess what? WATER.
Read my thread newb, I flushed the motor THOUROUGHLY THREE SEPERATE TIMES and still had mounds of **** literally falling out of the engine when it came apart. Have you ever seen the passageways on the housings? They tend to have these small holes for the coolant to pass through that open up to big cavities. The pressure CANNOT purge these mounds.You're jumping to conclusions based on the piece of **** engine that you bought. Not every engine will have the entire block full of this sort of crap, so if the OP is lucky it'll be limited the water pump area. Your logic is that you should rebuild every engine regardless of compression or overall condition, when that's clearly not needed in a lot of cases.
It's your motor and you're either going to choose to take the advice of people with more experience or put your head in the sand. If I were you, I'd open it up. If you re-use all the parts on the rotors it will cost <$200 in gaskets to open it up, actually clean it out, and put it back together. For no cost other than time to clean the rotors, you'll know that you won't end up with a stuck side seal that breaks and destroys >$3000 in hard parts. But what do I know, this only happened to me 2 weeks ago and my car is on jackstands.
02-16-09, 10:47 PM
#17
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Ive been to rx7boys house he has 2 other known good condtion motors thats why hes not to worried about this one
Hell my jspec s5 TII motor is still goin strong after 2 years of 12Psi and its still got 100Psi compression per housing, not one problem, other than the water pump goin out and a few gaskets lol
02-16-09, 11:59 PM
#19
jimmy ur a dumbass lol...but ya if it blows then it blows,,,ill do everything to prevent this but im not gonna open the motor up, i have plenty enough parts to fix it if it does go so no biggie.
And Nottt, i wouldnt come in here with 200 posts and call someone with 1200 and 1100 posts newbs just not a good thing to do i would think, who to say rotaryrocket dosent have a rotary only shop or like 20 motors at his house, same goes for me, how do you just automaticly kno u have more experience than me or anyone else...?? lol not tryin to be a dick just stating facts thats all.
And Nottt, i wouldnt come in here with 200 posts and call someone with 1200 and 1100 posts newbs just not a good thing to do i would think, who to say rotaryrocket dosent have a rotary only shop or like 20 motors at his house, same goes for me, how do you just automaticly kno u have more experience than me or anyone else...?? lol not tryin to be a dick just stating facts thats all.
02-17-09, 10:32 AM
#20
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And Nottt, i wouldnt come in here with 200 posts and call someone with 1200 and 1100 posts newbs just not a good thing to do i would think, who to say rotaryrocket dosent have a rotary only shop or like 20 motors at his house, same goes for me, how do you just automaticly kno u have more experience than me or anyone else...?? lol not tryin to be a dick just stating facts thats all.
How do you know I haven't owned rotary cars for over 12 years?
02-17-09, 10:43 AM
#21
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Quit raggin the guy.If he takes your advice, great. If not, let him learn the hard way like most of us did. No reason to flame the guy cause he doesn't do it your way. I'm not knockin anyones opinion/advice, just saying, let him try it his way. Best way to learn short of going to tech school.
02-17-09, 03:32 PM
#24
Alright guys, quit your bitching.
If the OP takes NotTTT's advice, great. If not, he'll hope for the best. Like his friend says, his J-Spec motor has lasted for 2 years.
BTW, If I were you guys, I'd listen to NotTTT and his 200 post count. This is coming from a <b>Mod</b> with 3K+ posts.
And, NotTTT, quit being a jackass about it.
If the OP takes NotTTT's advice, great. If not, he'll hope for the best. Like his friend says, his J-Spec motor has lasted for 2 years.
BTW, If I were you guys, I'd listen to NotTTT and his 200 post count. This is coming from a <b>Mod</b> with 3K+ posts.
And, NotTTT, quit being a jackass about it.
02-17-09, 03:56 PM
#25
lol cool, i dont dout he has more experience than me, but bein as im not to concerned about this engine as its not my DD or anything, ide like to see if the motor holds up... im doin everything but cracking the motor open...but he keeps goin on about how im basicly dumb for not opening it up which tells me hes not listening to me...sure if this was my DD or something ide take and open it up and refresh it as its not that expensive, i see your point...
thanx
thanx