ok, so i deleted emissions and rats nest. im trying to route a crankcase/ oil fill vent. im using the factory charcoal can. i ran a vacuum line from the air intake to a T fitting,
then i took the line from the filler neck and a line from the crankcase nipple on rear iron to a T with a line running from that T to the T from the air intake
the nipple left on the T fitting is connected to the line that runs to the charcoal can
. there a line from the charcoal can to fuel tank just like factory.
will this work? i have a picture below cause im sure this is confusing ha.

 

or can i loose the line from the air intake and just have the nipple from the oil fill neck and nipple from crankcase vent nipple on rear iron T'ed into the line that goes to charcoal can? cause there is pressure from the crankcase to blow residue to the catch can?

 

Why at all vent it into the intake? I ran two lines from both of the nipples to a T, a line off that to a small filter, then ran a line off of that down and out of the engine bay. Simple and easy. (Ps I put a filter on incase anything manages to get back into the system it is filtered.)

 

forget about the above and just drill several small holes on your oil filler cap

 

so silver comet, your way makes a lot of sense but if i want to use the charcoal can i can run the line off the T to the charcoal can instead of using a small filter and running it out the engine bay?

i dont like the drilling holes in the cap thing haha.. i have one of those nifty rotor caps for the filler neck

and will one of those small round white fuel filter work if i dont use the charcoal can? or what kinda filter did you use?

 

I've never heard of running it to the charcoal canister, I'm not sure how or if that works so I won't give you false knowledge on it. I just know what I did and alot of other people do because it's simple, no hassle and it looks good too. A fuel filter would be alright to use, I think I use one of those really tiny filters that a vac line can fit on that way it's really small. Got it from autozone and it works perfect.

 

I just looked at your diagram hahaha making it way to complicated friend. The whole point of T-ing a line from the crankcase into the intake was to burn off the access. Running it too the charcoal canister I don't believe will do anything. What I'm saying is it would just be simpler running it to the ground with a filter on it than welding a nipple on your intake to vent it back into the system to be burned off.

 

i gotcha! i ran it the way u told me to. this morning i ran n got a small filter and hooked it all up. no more smoking, and the write up i was following on the emissions removal told me to cap off both the injector bleed so i was having flooding problems and detonation problems n fuel smell all the time. Thank god i found out that wasnt right and didnt burn my car down or something stupid. i got it all hooked up and put back together about an hour ago n went for a rip! has more power than before. while im on the topic of power, when removing the emissions i took the cat out and you couldnt see threw it n if you shook it, there was big ball or something rolling around inside haha. but neways, thank you Silver Comet for your help! sometimes the easiest thing can give you the most struggle!

 

Why not just vent it to atmosphere? Or run it to a catch can...?

 

Ding ding ding!!!

 

You mean don't run any lines and just have them open correct? People do what I suggested because oil will sometimes be released and make the engine bay dirty along with many other components. You could have a catch can, but it is much simpler and cheaper to do what I've suggested.

Also Rx7-TII, I would highly suggest if you haven't already to port the wastegate on your turbo to prevent over boosting. It is highly recommended because you will run lean and detonate from the excess boost. Porting the wastegate controls your boost level. I recommend that you reinstall your cat until you moderate your boost levels.

 

catch cans are cheap and they allow you to drain the oil and recycle it.

 

Just to chime in*** where do you suggest one from?

 

ebay.

it's just a can with 2 holes in it and some hosing, even ebay parts can hardly **** that up. unless you are a sucker for name brand parts..

 

the crankcase should reallhy be under vaccum, you should hookup your catch can to the 2 points on the fillerneck and the rear plate, then run another hose to the intake pipe of the turbo if you have one or the inlet manifold on a n/a

if not you will kill your oil control seals

 

If your set on venting without a catch can find a small inline PVC valve and hook it up to one of the vent tubes on the oil filler tube and run it to the intake , if you don't use a valve the engine will create more vacuum than necessary to vent the bottom end of the engine and may run lean , .. plug the rest of the vent tubes as you only need one to do the job . A catch can sounds like a dirty sloppy way to vent but in reality if your engine is in fair condition there would be little to no oil in the can in a month. Heck I use a catch can on the air boxes of my Detroit diesels with great results and little to no oil in them .. All you are doing is venting fumes it,s not like there is oil laying inside the filler pipe waiting to be sucked up . JMO Gerald m.

 

Please explain how not having Vac to the crankcase will kill oil control rings and cause you to run lean?

 

Weather it be carb or fuel injection if you introduce air into the system that isn't being metered some how if it is fuel injection there is no way for the engine to determine how much air fuel ratio there is same as a carb it determines how the fuel ratio by how much air goes through the carb . if more air is being introduced after these points ( after the air flow meter or after the carb the engine is bound to run different because the air flow is higher and the fuel metering cannot be done proper . it might not make much difference but it will make some . If anything The engine should also have a filtered hose attached to another vent spout to allow air to enter the crank case .Now texfcturbo11 if you think that is incorrect that is fine but explain why it won't change anything . What happens when a vacuum hose has a leak in it or is broken or came off ?? it causes a lean condition and makes the engine run shitty ..As far as oil control rings I know not what steven16 means .

 

I didn't say it was incorrect, I just had not heard that before and wanted clarification. I still don't see how air from the crankcase is going to get into the combustion chamber, though.

 

i'm not a fan of running it to the intake, you're forcing blowby oil to be burned in the engine increasing carbon deposits. the vapors from the crankcase are already dirtier than the liquid coming through the OMP.

the crankcase is fine with ambient atmospheric pressure.

 

Ok , So with a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve ( PCV ) that is where the air would go . It would be sucked out of ONE the oil filler neck fittings or anywhere that is open to the bottom end through the PVC valve which controls how much air is actually being sucked through it with a mechanical internal spring and valve . it in turn is connected to the intake and goes directly into the combustion chamber and poof it burns on ignition .. The PVC valve is more or less an older school way of controlling crankcase emissions into the atmosphere , instead the fumes are burned .

The only reason I even brought this up is I would think that in some states and other countries you can't have catch cans so the valve would be an option for those people that need to conform to more stringent emission laws , it may also help control front and rear seal seepage by creating a small vacuum in the bottom end .

As far as the charcoal canisters go I'm not so sure that it has ever been proven that the darn things even work they are more for fumes from the fuel system to be trapped in and burned . If the canister was used for the bottom end ventilation it would become laden with oil and moisture emulsions after a few years or less . and not do its job .

I love the simplicity of the catch cans and as stated I use them on my Detroit diesels and they sometimes , when worn some , slobber out their air boxes like a baby getting teeth . I'm just saying that's all . Gerald m.

 

the FC never had a true PCV valve though, it had a vacuum operated valve that dumped positive crankcase pressure into the intake piping before the throttle body(not pulled by vacuum like piston engines).

the FD has a true PCV system that is under vacuum and a separate one that dumps off into the intake like the FC system to operate when under boost.

 

I see, thanks for the clarification. So you would then opt to have the fumes into the intake. If you simply vented to atmosphere though, you wouldn't be incurring a vacuum leak. You would be violating emissions laws in some states, however.

 

These days rotary engines violate emissions laws when parked in the garage not running...

The key is collector plates. Then you can basically do what you want with emissions.

Both my cars use the stock purge valve system and ive never had an issue whatsoever with it. Never had a problem with coking or carbon buildup either. But my cars are driven quite hard and get steam/seafoam treatments every 3-4 years or so.

 

hey collector plates, Check.! its nice not needing a front plate!