k so i just got a new fc and its got a few things i know are gonna annoy me after a while that i want to take care of now...

heres some background info ive been able to pick up so far; its an s4 with s5 intake manifold(dont know if the conversion was done correctly but the car seems to work fine minus the stuff im about to list) and s5 tails, the clutch fan was replaced with an e-fan, theres some big blue aftermarket intake on there, and a lot of the emissions are blocked off, it pretty much looks like all of its gone.

so the idles really low, it barely seems like it wants to start when i crank it then idles at like 500-600 area, and it just makes me antzy cause i feel like its gonna shut off on me, but it will drive and stop perfectly fine. ive looked up stuff saying you need to adjust the tps but i dont know how to adjust the tps and wanted to know if anyone could tell me, id like it at a more stable area maybe like 900-1000 range.

the car flooded on me when i was pulling into a gas station when i was driving it home, unflooded it and it everything was fine the rest of the drive home, went to start again later on that day and it was flooded...dont understand how... but i unflooded it and it started right up...buddy of mine told me to rev it up to 3000 before i turned the car off and since ive been doing that it hasnt been flooded when i start it.. id like to take care of this so i dont have to rev up to 3k before i shut it off or worry about it flooding when im sitting at a stop light or turning with out my foot on the gas.

also, the reverse lights and right turn signal arent functional, theres been transmission work on it which i know is a big cause of the reverse lights not working and was wondering if anyone had a pic of that wire im supposed to plug in or check.. and if theres any clue as to why only the right turn signal isnt working, i figure im just gonna swap out the switch and hope that does the trick..

anyways if anyone can give me some info id appreciate it

 

It flooded while driving it? If it just flooded while sitting at the gas station, was the car fully warmed up before you shut it off? Flooding is cause by 3 common things:

1. not letting it warm up properly and shutting it off.
2. Injectors are leaking and not fully closing, so when you shut them off they will leak.
3. Your engine coolant temperature sensor is malfunctioning making the engine think it is cold and feeding it more fuel than is needed.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/car-takes-forever-start-idles-rough-backfires-when-warm-runs-fine-725787/


Adjust the TPS for the idle problem, it should be at 750rpm:

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment

You can find all this information if you search, but hopefully someone will be nice enough to chime on the backup switch and turn signal. Please check the bulbs for turn signal, and also connector to the backup switch.

 

yeah i searched first but all i could find was people telling what to do on other threads and not explaining how, appreciate it though, an yeh it flooded while i was driving it, i turned into the gas station flipped around to pull up to the pump and as i was rolling up to the pump it cut off.
also if its in the case where the injectors are leaking will it be the primaries or secondaries? im figurin primaries but i want to make sure..

i forgot about checking the bulbs that will probably be cheaper thing to do first, i dont remember if the turn signal shows up on the cluster or not but im sure that will help cause my old fc did the same thing only with the left turn signal

 

was it a hard turn? i really haven't heard of a car flooding while driving, but if this did happen and you have bad injectors your car is probably running really bad.

If it shut off while making a hard turn, it could also be due to fuel starvation caused by a dirty fuel filter inside the gas tank.

 

As far as the injectors, primaries. But since you will have all 4 out get them all clean if you are thinking of doing this, maybe the secondaries are clogged worse, you won't really know.

 

nah it wasnt really a hard turn, i didnt have any tags on it so i wasnt trying to attract any attention to myself haha, i have a spare set of 460s sitting around somewhere what set of injectors should i swap out for this, or should i just do all of em?

 

also that tps thread you posted is a little too technical, im a little slow when it comes to electricals, ill ask a couple people i know in my area if they can help me with it though

 

well there really wasnt any noticable problems going past 3800 so i figure the secondaries are fine and i pushed it kinda hard going home just to make sure everything was solid, but i might swap em out just because

 

What makes you positive it flooded while pulling into the gas station? If you tps is bad, your car will not idle properly and shut off. Don't jump to conclusions its the injectors yet.

As far as the link for the TPS, it is really easy to do if you have access to a multimeter. Just disconnect the harness for the TPS, since you have an s4 you will just hook up the multimeter to points A and B as shown in the picture and measure the resistance with the multimeter set to the KOhm range.

Make sure your car is off and when you are ready to do the test just turn the key to the "on" position, but don't fully turn on the engine.

At "idle" meaning without anything opening the throttle plate besides the adjustment screw your tps should read:

* Idle: 0.95 - 1k

Now at Wide Open Throttle, meaning when the plastic plunger on the TPS is fully extended it should read:

* WOT: 4k to 6k

You can see a picture in that link for the TPS adjustment screw, if the idle is not within spec you turn that screw until your multimeter is within the specified range. Also make sure to manually open the throttle plate fully and let it drop back down on the TPS plunger and recheck the resistance. This will make sure you get the proper reading as it WILL change slightly if you miss this step.

Forgot to mention, you need to also measure the full sweep from "idle" to "WOT" on the TPS plunger. It should read smoothly from 0k to 4-6k. If at any point it says OUT OF LIMIT your tps is bad.

 

oh man, ok i google'd it i think ive got one of those laying around my shed somewhere, thats pretty simple since you broke it down for me, ill have to check that out in the a.m.

 

also do i hook the meter up to the tps piece of the connector or to the harness piece?

 

to the harness leading to the TPS (coming out of the actual tps itself). They say you can "probe" it through the back of the harness. When I did this there was no way I could do this, but I have an S5. I just held the two multimeter leads up to points A and B on the front of the harness (where you can see the male spades). They slipped out sometimes doing it this way, if you have an extra set of hands this should be easier to do also.

 

hopefully this will help me solve my problem thanks, now i just gotta figure out the other stuff

 

post back here if you have any more questions.

 

forgot to tell you, after you set the tps, you will need to set the idle. connect everything back up, then there is an idle adjustment screw at the top of the throttle body (under the black cap). set the rpm to 750 using the screw. Blip the throttle as you "set" the screw (every time you want to check at what rpm you raised or lowered after turning the screw) because if you don't do this i found my throttle plate didn't set right for some reason.

 

you say your car is a S4, so i'm hoping that it is an S4 then. well follow this link and try it out. i did this on my NA but havent done so to my T2. only because the carpet wasnt there anymore on the NA. here's the link:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/looking-car-has-hot-start-problems-499744/

this was a while back so dont go reviving it unless its necessary. just new info to you from me.

 

now when i set this screw do i tighten it or loosen it?

can anyone else help me out with the other stuff??

 

it kinda depends... i bought a unit at banzai-racing to help. it's set on two LED lights that tell you if you have your TPS set right. you can go look at fcs3pro to make your own.

 

google'd fcs3pro and i didnt get anything, can you send me a link or somethin? cause that banzai racing tps tester is not worth 30$ considering the fact that it looks like its held together with zip ties on the picture

 

which screw? the tps adjustment screw or the idle screw on top of the throttle body?

Either way, if its the tps screw, you will see the resistance values change on your multimeter as you turn it. This is how you know which way to turn.

For the idle screw, the idle will either go up, or down, depending which way you turn. Don't worry about messing anything up. Remember to blip the throttle after you think you turned the screw where you want it to make sure it settles in right.

Using the test lights are the proper way of setting the idle if you want to do it this way. The method I showed you is a way of knowing your tps is working correctly and also a brief way of setting it. After you check your tps and set it, you need to set the idle speed using the screw on top of the throttle body (its covered by a black rubber cap).

Did you check out your light bulbs for reverse and turn signals? If your tps is bad this will knock out both problem with your car shutting down and idling problems. If not, it is going to be something else you need to look into.

By the way you never answered if your car was fully warmed up when it shut off?

 

I thought I would throw this in for you in case you didn't know this already. When you set the idle speed (not the tps) you need to jump the initial set connector before you set the idle to tell the computer the initial idle speed.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...al+set+coupler

1. Check to see if a jumper has been left in the initial set connector. It's easy to forget to remove this after adjusting idle speed. On '87-'88 models, the initial set connector is a green connector with two female spade connectors in it, placed at right angles to each other. It is located in the engine compartment, forward on the driver's side, near the headlight. On later models, it is a single conductor connector, located in about the same position. In these models, a jumper is connected between the connector and ground.
2. Check the Throttle Position Sensor setting. A variety of instructions for doing this are contained in the FAQ. My personal favorite is the two light bulbs. After setting it, rev the engine a couple of times to let everything settle back into place, and re-check it. You may even want to take the car for a quick drive and re-check the setting. An incorrectly set TPS seems to be the most frequent idle culprit. Make sure you get it right.

Also i forgot to mention the most IMPORTANT thing to you: Makes sure your car is fully warmed when adjusting the TPS. If it is not warmed up fully, you will NOT get appropriate readings due to the way it works. Best thing to do is to drive around, then as soon as you get home, try to check the tps within 5 minutes. If you need more time go drive around again then recheck. Sorry on my part as I forgot to tell you this, although you should of seen it on the link I sent you.

 

ill look into all this stuff tomorrow cause ill have the chance to check it all out; im assuming the car was warmed when it shut off, i went to go check it out, drove it around the guys neighborhood, went back to his place turned it off it sat for maybe like 20 min then i got the title an what not and drove like 5 min around to the gas station and like i said as i was turning around to pull up to the pump it cut off, i was maybe doing like 7-10 mph

 

k so im bringing my thread back to life to ask a question, do i get a s4 tps sensor for my car or a s5 one?

 

86-88 s4, 89-91 s5

 

yeh im aware of the years just wasnt sure cause of the whole s4 s5 manifold swap business, but i believe i read that the s5 tps wont hook up to an s4