1. I don't think my low coolant buzzer is working. How should I test the coolant buzzer? I unplugged the connector to it and nothing happened. I have a CSF metal radioator BTW.

2. I have 3800 RPM hesitation until completely warmed up. Grounds sanded and sealed a while back.

3. My starter takes severel clicks to turn over most of the time. Every once in a while it will click and just won't work again. I'll have to remove and replace the battery cables to get power to it again.

 

3. Sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere, probably at the battery. Check for voltage after the battery. My guess is you have bad battery terminal connectors.

 

Yeah, I replaced my terminals with those clamp on tool-less ones from autozone a while back. They're kind of cheesy, but work. I wonder if some nice terminals would help the cold hesitation too.

 

umm you shouldn't be revving anywhere near 3800 until it's fully warmed up

 

That's BS, not to mention I can do whatever I want to my car.

That being said, by completely warmed up I mean everything heat soaked. I'd drive several miles at 50 mph, temp needle up and still get the hesitation merging onto the interstate. Get off the interstate and it's fine.

 

I cleaned the battery connectors and replaced the quick service levers with a straight through bolt and tightened it with a ratchet. It started on the first click, but overnight the starter is back to clicking several times before the engine will turn over.

 

and that has what bearing on this thread?
Oh I see, it all comes together in your not wearing underpants... so the car isn't grounded properly!

Like everyone has said so far: Check the voltage on the battery, make sure it has the proper amount of voltage... If it doesn't you have a slow drain some where, which means look for anything that stays on when it shouldn't.

for number 2 i'm assuming you have an NA, make sure your 5th and 6th ports are functioning properly. If they are, you have a bad ground and may need to replace some old wires.

test your coolant buzzer by having your car run. Disconnect them if it goes off it works, if it doesn't jump them, if it goes off it works (In case you can't tell i can't remember if it's when they complete a circuit or interrupt the circuit that causes the buzzer). Reconnect them.

 

It's not a battery problem. The car starts up fine sometimes and when it doesn't, after a few clicks the cranking speed is fine.

You can hear the solenoid push the gear onto the flywheel but it won't go anywhere and the lights dim like it is drawing a huge amount of current.

5th/6th are fine. Lubed by pre-mix internally and lithium grease externally. I can't see them being temperature dependant anyways...

I'm aware of the grounding issue. I never had ground issues, but re-did mine anyways when I was having a problem with my secondaries and thought it was the grounds. Can a bad battery ground cause the same thing?

That was the first thing I tried and nothing happened, leading me to where I am now. Is the coolant sensor just a probe connected to the wire or what? It shows it as a thermostor in the FSM, but that doesn't make sense to me.

 

My friends accord was doing EXACTLY that for the last couple months... Finally figured it was a dead-spot on the starter or worn contacts in the solenoid. Replaced the starter. Fixed the problem.

 

Thanks, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I forgot to mention that the starter has almost 200k miles on it

 

I'm at the garage now and the reman bosch starter is still doing the same thing.

Cleaned and re-attached the battery terminal connections to the wires (not stock terminals) with lead shims for better contact. Cleaned posts. No help there.

I'm checking the wires to the starter for damage and resistance now.

This is killing me. I had to push start the bitch to get it over here and all this is in conjunction with a nice hangover.

 

Bad and redundant (from manual conversion) wiring near the starter... problem solved

 

I finally got around to it and fixed the hesitation yesterday. I ran a new ground from ecu pin wires 3A and 3G to the intake manifold. Then, I randomly decided to take a look at my pressure sensor wires and noticed the vacuum line was barely on the nipple.

My coolant buzzer still doesn't work... I may just get an acurate aftermarket temp guage If I can't figure it out.

 

I am having the same problem with my starter and the 3800 hesitation.

Every once in a while when i go to start the car, when i turn the key it just clicks once, all lights go off and trying to turn the key again does NOTHING!

I have to remove a battery lead and reconnect it to fix it. I was thinking it might be a starter relay sticking and removing the battery lead allows it to reset to neutral. But I can't figure out where the relay is from the FSM and tech manuals. Is it the lockout switch, interlock switch, starter cut relay? What worries me is that all the interior lights including dash lights go out when this happens.

As for the 3800 hesitation. I had the engine out and rebuilt everything but the block. New gaskets and cleaned everything up all the way around. Made sure all the contacts and grounds were cleaned and solid. I know the 5th and 6th ports are working because after the hesitation the car launches itself. Plus I cleaned out the MASSIVE ammount of carbon build up inside and can visually verify that they open under fast throttle movement.

But the weird part is that if I am under full throttle from the get go the car doesn't hesitate, its only under medium or low throttle that it has the hesitation.

So I was wondering if it was a grounding issue? or possible a small vacuum leak (which shouldn't really be since the engine idles smooth and all vacuum lines were replaced with silicone tubing and double checked to make sure they were replaced properly and are tight.) Or possible cold solder in the cpu?

Any ideas about where to start first to check this?

P.S. All parts were ordered from Mazdatrix.com. They seem really reliable in selling good quality parts. Hope I am right.

 

Mrslysly, if you are losing lights and then nothing while cranking, it is most often poor contact between the batt cables and the batt posts. However, I have seen batteries fail internally where the conductor plates inside the battery lose continuity with the posts. Clean or replace the cable ends and clean the posts, then retest. If still kills the lights, replace the battery. My car had the 3800 rpm hesitation, and it ended up being my fuel pump resistor. I checked my fuel pressure at idle, and only had 20 PSI. I checked volts at the pump connector at idle, and only had 4.2 volts. I checked the resistance at the resistor pack, and had 4 ohms. Replaced the resistor pack with a known-good one, and Voila! 32 PSI pressure, and no more hesitation. This was one of many possibilities that can cause hesitation, so your case might be different.

 

Thanks for the advice. Can you tell me what a good resistance value is for testing at the resistor pack so I can tell if mine is failing? I have a decent set of battery post connectors that I have been meaning to put in.

I still think the problem isn't the battery terminals because when i put the key in and turn it to the ON position the first time, the lights come on but then when i try to start the car it clicks once and then everything goes dead. Disconnecting and reconnecting a battery lead resets the car so the lights come back on and then the car usually starts.

Guess its a cat and mouse game for me.




Why is it when you fix one thing, you notice 2 more that have to be fixed?

 

Exact same thing with my starting problem. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Check the positive wire at the starter very very well, as in unwrap it and check for brittle insulation, etc a ways up the harness (within reason). Also check the solenoid wire very well for the same thing. Repair with a real crimping tool and re-wrap.

The problem is that the high resistance in the wires at the starter causes a huge amount of current to be drawn. This has some effect on the battery connection. I would say what effect, but I don't know the proper term.

 

Check the FSM for testing the resistor pack. It is only for low impedance early injectors (86 and early 87 IIRC). No packs on 88+.

I know what you mean... I jumped my car the other day and now I'm putting in a new wiper relay. LOL, I'll never get around to painting this piece of work!

 

Both my '88 TII and my '90 NA have the resistor pack. According to my '90 FSM, the spec is .70 to .94 ohms between terminals E and F of the resistor connector. Mine had .40 ohms which dropped my available volts too much, resulting in reduced fuel pressure.

 

Alright will check the wires. I am assuming that these are going to be solid core 12-14 ga?

Will also check the pack. See how that is doing.

 

Well, all 88+ are high impedance injectors, so you've got something wierd going on.

 

We're not talking about the injector resistor, we're talking about the fuel pump resistor mounted on a bracket right behind the passenger headlight. On the same bracket is a relay that allows full batt volts to the pump during cranking and reduced volts once the engine is started. Mine was pulling the current down too much resulting in low fuel pressure and hesitation.

 

I still have my hesitation until absolutely warmed up... I lied.

Still can't figure out the coolant buzzer/light either. I traced the coolant level wire all the way to the plug on the gauge cluster. It is not broken and is not getting a false ground anywhere.

I would say that means I have a bad coolant level unit in the cluster, but I swapped in another cluster I had lying around and it didn't buzz either...

Well, you said resistor pack, which to most people is the injector resistor pack... I'll give my fuel pump circuit a look.

 

Ok, my coolant warning was fine. The problem was that I didn't have the car running when testing it. Also, it has a ~30 sec timer between the sensor circuit seeing no continuity and the warning being switched on.

I also figured out why my gauge was reading low. Back when I put the engine together NAPA sold me some piece of **** sender that had way too high resistance (keeps the needle buried near cold mark).