Could use some help from a certain mod... (vert problem)
#1
Could use some help from a certain mod... (vert problem)
Icemark,
Could use a bit of help here. The wife's vert top wont go back up, I have swapped the switch out, no fix. When I use the diag plug, it blows the fuse. Any ideas?
I cant find the wiring diag for the 89 vert in the FSM...
Could use a bit of help here. The wife's vert top wont go back up, I have swapped the switch out, no fix. When I use the diag plug, it blows the fuse. Any ideas?
I cant find the wiring diag for the 89 vert in the FSM...
#7
I'm a boost creep...
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http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47...ng/Vert%20Top/
Most ground points are shared by several circuits. If the motors' ground point was disconnected plenty of other stuff would stop working as well.
Most ground points are shared by several circuits. If the motors' ground point was disconnected plenty of other stuff would stop working as well.
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#9
Winter sucks
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#10
I'm a boost creep...
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Yep, a bad horn relay in the CPU is the most common cause of horn failure. You can replace the CPU with a used one, replace the relay in your CPU or even bypass the CPU entirely with another externally mounted relay.
#12
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
well it looks like there is some kind of separate CPU (not the body computer, but it says CPU right there in the diagram for the motor) in the RH convertible motor assembly. but that motor is only for opening the top, not closing it?
anyway, checking that G/W wire would be a good place to start. just my two cents.
anyway, checking that G/W wire would be a good place to start. just my two cents.
#16
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Sorry just seeing this thread today.
Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.
Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.
With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).
If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.
Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.
So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?
Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.
Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.
With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).
If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.
Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.
So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?
#18
Sorry just seeing this thread today.
Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.
Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.
With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).
If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.
Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.
So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?
Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.
Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.
With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).
If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.
Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.
So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?
#19
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
If you meter the Grn/Wht does it rest at a perfect ground or does it have a couple of ohms of resistance?
#21
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
was there any work done recently on the passengers side, or spare tire area, or underhood? Those are the most common pinch spots
#24
SLEEPER
iTrader: (3)
Are you sure on that? I was told when I did my turbo swap in my vert that if I put the turbo ecu the top would not work? Its a s5. Would a j-spec ecu work then? Just a thought I had. Thanks
To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.[/QUOTE]
To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.[/QUOTE]
#25
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Are you sure on that? I was told when I did my turbo swap in my vert that if I put the turbo ecu the top would not work? Its a s5. Would a j-spec ecu work then? Just a thought I had. Thanks
To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.
To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.
There is the CPU that is the body computer found in the drivers kick panel, and the power roof CPU that is built into the right side roof motor.
And I am not sure about what harness the power top underhood/ diagnostic plug is in on a S5. If it is part of the engine harness (which I don't believe that it is), then yes you would need the correct engine harness for a convertible or re-wire the harness. Again, I am not sure about S5 models if they run the top controls through the engine harness as I try and avoid S5 models at all cost.