Could use some help from a certain mod... (vert problem)
 

Icemark,

Could use a bit of help here. The wife's vert top wont go back up, I have swapped the switch out, no fix. When I use the diag plug, it blows the fuse. Any ideas?

I cant find the wiring diag for the 89 vert in the FSM...

ill take a stab in the dark, could the wiring to the motors be ungrounded?

If there wasn't a ground somewhere the fuse wouldn't blow.

Why not PM him.

Because PMs aren't searchable.. If someone else has the same issue, then when I fix it I want everyone to know what fixed it.

so voltage is coming out of the switch when you activate it? you will have to start ripping the car apart and metering the circuit

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47...ng/Vert%20Top/ :)

Most ground points are shared by several circuits. If the motors' ground point was disconnected plenty of other stuff would stop working as well.

looking at that diagram... could something be screwed up in the CPU?

Also: http://www.rotorwiki.com/images/6/6c...ngDiagrams.pdf

Yep, a bad horn relay in the CPU is the most common cause of horn failure. You can replace the CPU with a used one, replace the relay in your CPU or even bypass the CPU entirely with another externally mounted relay.

Oops, I think I got this thread confused with another one... :dunce:

To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.

well it looks like there is some kind of separate CPU (not the body computer, but it says CPU right there in the diagram for the motor) in the RH convertible motor assembly. but that motor is only for opening the top, not closing it?

anyway, checking that G/W wire would be a good place to start. just my two cents.

Yeah, I am not sure where to start. I know that when I jumper the roof up on the diag plug, it frys the fuse. Guess I just have to tear it apart..

Was the top always smoothly opening and closing? Or did it have any rough/tight spots?

I've seen a *smiliar* problem due to binding/wearing linkages.

No, it goes up and down fine (when it works). I just works intermittently.

Sorry just seeing this thread today.

Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.

Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.

With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).

If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.

Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.

So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?

Shit then, I'm out :rofl:

Yep, when you jumper it to open, it works fine(the top opens). when you jumper it to close, it pops the fuse. As of now, the top is stuck down.

Then that points to either a bad motor or a pinched wire.

If you meter the Grn/Wht does it rest at a perfect ground or does it have a couple of ohms of resistance?

Gotta wait till the wifey brings the car home tonight. She insisted on driving it even though the top is stuck down. She is a bit strange..

:)

Where would I look for pinched wires?

was there any work done recently on the passengers side, or spare tire area, or underhood? Those are the most common pinch spots

Okay, I will start looking when she gets home.

So it does. Well, nobody said the FSM couldn't be confusing at times. :p:

Are you sure on that? I was told when I did my turbo swap in my vert that if I put the turbo ecu the top would not work? Its a s5. Would a j-spec ecu work then? Just a thought I had. Thanks

To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.[/QUOTE]

Not exactly.

There is the CPU that is the body computer found in the drivers kick panel, and the power roof CPU that is built into the right side roof motor.

And I am not sure about what harness the power top underhood/ diagnostic plug is in on a S5. If it is part of the engine harness (which I don't believe that it is), then yes you would need the correct engine harness for a convertible or re-wire the harness. Again, I am not sure about S5 models if they run the top controls through the engine harness as I try and avoid S5 models at all cost.