how much would the parts cost to do a full rebuild if i did all the labor?

-Zach

 

check racing beat and mazdatrix, they have rebuild kits with all the stuff to put together the engine. you might need to buy some special tools or an engine stand adapter if you want to use a engine stand to build it on.

 

im talking about the TRANSMISSION...not the engine

 

my bad

 

i believe 400 just in parts. I THINK!

 

thanx. I was j/ looking for a rough estimate neway

 

i took my 88gxl trans to a trans shop with a bad 2nd gear synchro and 4th gear synchro for a full rebuild they quoted me almost 2000 in the car 1600 outside of it...
i wish i could charge someone 400 to take out their transmission :P

silly mechanics.

 

well that 1600 included labor...im talking strictly parts

 

Pineapple Racing will rebuild it for around $400 plus any additional parts. Another rotary shop here in Tampa Bay will do it for around $600. You shouldn't be paying that much for a tranny rebuild.

http://www.pineappleracing.com/PricelistSvcs.html

 

damn...thats pretty cheap..but id rather do it myself neway...anyone got a link to a kit with everything i need?

 

I'd love to give a direct link to the kit, but the site is in frames.

http://www.drivetrain.com

 

Parts would cost a little over $200.00

Rebuild kit is $122.00
Syncro kit is $60.60 or 234.84 for OEM mazda syncros

 

awesome! that totally undershot my original estimate

thanks to all who helped out!

-Zach

 

You'll really need to tear the tranny down and see exactly what you need. I just took down an S4 trans that's lived a long hard life. The synchros were shot for sure but the dog teeth on the clutch hub sleeves and the gear faces were worn badly too. Don't do it half assed. Tear it down, see what's worn and replace everything that's not right. Don't want to do the work to only be pissed that it's still not right.

 

well how much would all new gears and clutch hub sleeves bump up the price??

 

I destroyed another box earlier this year and priced all new parts through Mazdaspeed. I needed basically everything except cases and shift rods and clutch hubs. The price ran up to around $900. I decided to scrap it and use what was left for spare parts.

Just scanned through some fiche and a clutch hub sleeve will run you about $40. Fourth will run you $121, the rest of the gears about $80 give or take. They may all be in great shape...hope they are. But if they're worn, new synchros will be a waste of time and money. Tear it down first and inspect everything carefully. If the dog teeth are rounded off and not pointed I'd look for new ones.

Chris

 

thanks for the heads up man! Im still unsure about buying the car neway, but its nice to have an idea about what i could be getting myself into

 

Here are a couple pics to show you what you're looking at. The pics of the dog teeth are hard to get a idea of what they should and shouldn't look like but hopefully you get the idea. They should be pointed, the end making about a 80-90* angle with a fairly sharp point. If they're rounded scrap 'em.

Good...



Bad...



Good...



Ugly...

 

Good pics. I'm about to start researching tranny rebuilding myself. My 208K tranny is showing signs of limited life. It'd be nice if it lasts until the end of the year.

 

So how difficult is it to rebuild? Time wise? Skill? Tools?

 

Tools are the big thing. There are a couple specialty tools you should have. The big one is a HUGE socket. There is nut on the output shaft that requires a deepwell socket about 20-some inches DEEP. The tool is about $80 from Mazdaspeed. I bought a socket for $15 at Sears, bored a hole in the end large enough to slip it over the output shaft and welded a bar to it to use it as a wrench instead of a socket. Much cheaper. Other than that a bearing puller with long teeth on it. Again on the order of 20-some inches. Other than that it's no harder than building a motor. Take your time, measure everthing, keep it super clean, and use good parts. As with anything a FSM helps.

 

For the big nut I used a LARGE box end wrench (1 5/8 I think). Be sure to lock it in 1st and reverse (I think those were the gears) to keep the trans from spinning while removing the nut. Also need some good gear pullers. The job isn't as hard as you would think. Definately disassemble and inspect. Count on replacing the bearings but the other stuff got to see and measure first. My syncros met thickness specs but had burs on them that needed removed so they would work properly again. Also I messed up the threads on the main shaft so I had to replace that. Win some, lose some.