Hi I am new to this forum, and new to the FC. Not new to rotary engine cars, but its been a while. I just picked up a 1990 NA auto, and COSMO 13btt engine and a 5spd S5 13bt transmission. I have the engine mount adapters allready. The car was bought with the original engine known to leak coolant into the engine (temp fixed with block weld by me), but an excellent body interior etc. with around 60K miles at a good price. I have the brain complete wiring harness and the engine is very complete.

I have a few questions that I hope you good people can help me with:

Is there a consolodated FAQ for swapping a 13bTT cosmo motor into an FC?

What is the flywheel compatabilility with those lightweight flyweels that are sold on ebay for around 200 dollars?

What about compatability with a S5 turbo?

What is the recomended (and easy to tune) aftermarket brain to use with this thing?

I have about 3K more in the budget to perform the swap, for a total of 6 spent on the car, and I would like to rebuld the engine to replace the apex seals, and do whatever else would make the engine last longer, do a single turbo swap FMIC, and a few other things, but I don't want this thing to make more than about 300 WHP absolute tops, I would like it to last a while as I plan to have this car for 5 years at least.

Thanks,
Colin In San Diego

 

why not more than 300? too concerned with reliability after that point?

 

search


-Ted

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/13b-re.html

any S4-S6 light weight flywheel will work. All you need is the counterweight that is on the flexplate of the RE motor.

You could get a cheap S5 hybrid turbo that will do 350 whp. That way it will still bolt to the stock exhaust and use a stock turbo 80mm downpipe. Then get some stainless steel oil and water lines fabricated.

Most people would go with a cheap (used) haltech or microtech. You can probably pick one up between $650-900

Your fuel system is gonna run you around $700. Injectors, fittings, stainless lines, FP regulator with a gauge, and fuel pump.

Then get it tuned and spend the rest of your money on brakes and suspension.

 

"why not more than 300? too concerned with reliability after that point?"

I'm not intending to build a racecar, I want something streetable, reliable and wife friendly not too loud etc. This dosent mean its going to be a daily driven car either.
And for a street driven car thats 2600 pounds 300 whp is plenty. Also my other street legal weekend ride does easy low 10 second quarter miles (2 wheels).

Thanks for the link, what about the electric omp, in use with an aftermarket ecu?

Is it controlled by the ecu?

 

people just remove it and put on block off plates. they just run premix into their fuel.

 

If you are on a budget, you can bolt up a Series 5 Turbo II N370 23LBS flywheel or an FD3S 93-Up N3A1 20lb Flywheel. All of the 89 and up TURBO rotors are the same type and weight. No need to buy a pricey clutch/flywheel kit..use some of that money for a good stand alone and tuning.. If you do decide to use a stock flywheel, either s5 tII or FD, make sure you use the S5 Type clutch disc/pressure plate as the FD pressure plate will not work with your TII trans.

Shameless plug: I have new Microtech LT8S and both types of flywheels for sale..
Japan2la@yahoo.com

 

The Haltech e11v2 on this site http://www.hitman.hm/e11v2.html claims to controll the rotary oil metering pump. For now I might just put in as stock I do have the oem ecu and wiring.

Is it worth it to rebuild the engine to replace the seals before putting it in?