2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
View Poll Results: biggest radiator
koyo dual pass
68.42%
fluidyne
0
0%
corksport
21.05%
other (please post what you think)
10.53%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll

corksport radiator

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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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corksport radiator

ive been searching for a while now. and im going to get a bigger radiator. right now i have a koyo single pass and i just dont think its working for me. i need something with a lot more volume.

so its either koyo dual pass, fluidyne, or corksports radiator.

does anyone have experience with their radiator? i just talked with them over the phone and they said its 4 inches thick but is only a single pass. money is not a problem.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 05:42 AM
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does anyone have personal experience with the corksport radiator?
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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I sell csf radiators 2 row with rad cap on it (looks like koyo but black)

235.00 shipped
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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Why do you think that the Koyo isn't working for you?

I have a Howe radiator. The fluidyne is small in comparison. The advantage is that it monsterous. The disadvantage is that you'll have to find custom hoses, hose reducer, mounting, level sensor bung, e-fan. It's a fair bit of work.

I think this is the one I bought:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Last edited by Snrub; Jan 16, 2007 at 03:27 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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If you're looking at $550 rads, another option would be a Ron Davis rad, available through Flatout Motorsports, AWR, Mazdaspeed and several other places. They've got a crossflow design that's supposed to be the best. If Mazdaspeed sells them they must be good, and I've read a bunch of positive feedback from racers running them.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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i got a Ron Davis racing radiator and its the best radiatior ever i think. but it was a little costly like $450
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Th3Tun4, how hard was it to install? any pis?
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 07:46 PM
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What kinda fan setup do you have? What are your oil temps like also?
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 95nracer
What kinda fan setup do you have? What are your oil temps like also?
3000 cfm rated efan, no clue on oil temps.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:27 PM
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How good is the ducting around the rad? Having a well ducted smaller rad is better than a poorly ducted big one. Try sealing it up really well and the problem might go away, or at least get less severe.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
How good is the ducting around the rad? Having a well ducted smaller rad is better than a poorly ducted big one. Try sealing it up really well and the problem might go away, or at least get less severe.
i have the stock underbelly tray installed. as well a aluminum radiator panel.

i just want to know whats the better radiator, do a search on my old post and see all the fixes i have already done that have lead me up to this point.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by projectredsuns
Th3Tun4, how hard was it to install? any pis?
It was pretty easy to install basically i went to grannysspeedshop.com and bought there ron davis radiator and it comes with direct bolt on brackets witch you could easly make but it comes with them. 525 + shipping. and i am just running 2 12" electric fans a pusher and a puller but its really nice. i will post you some pics in a couple of days
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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^forgot to ask are you using the competition version or the cross flow version. i see both them on Flatout Motorsports
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #14  
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what temps are you seeing coolant wise? I plan on road racing mine with a koyo single pass.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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190 city driving, 201 highway cruising.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
You think that those are problem temps? My thoughts are that those are pretty well controlled temps considering your setup.

I read your cooling threads. I cannot believe that 201*f is a dangerous temp. According to FSM the factory spec t-stat begins opening at 177-182 but does not fully open until 203*! In other words, you are running at a temp that should not open the t-stat fully, according to the factory spec. I think that is awesome considering your FMIC and the rest of your setup.

I'm not trying to be a smartass here, but maybe you don't still have the original problem anymore. Maybe it is long fixed, but you are a little paranoid and protective (like we all get about cooling issues) such that you are trying to keep the temp lower that it needs to be?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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The CSF radiator I mentioned is a stock fit readiator has a neck on it for a radiator cap, it is VERY EFFICIENT and is INEXPENSIVE compared to any other on the market right now

Dave
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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From: And the horse he rode in on...
Originally Posted by SpooledupRacing
The CSF radiator I mentioned is a stock fit readiator has a neck on it for a radiator cap, it is VERY EFFICIENT and is INEXPENSIVE compared to any other on the market right now

Dave
Dave-

You are in the business. Is 201*f a problem temp as far as putting the engine in danger of damage?

Jack
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 08:26 PM
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From: Comstock Park, MI 49321
jack u have pm!
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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SpooledupRacing sorry i dont want your CSF radiator. so would you please stop filling my thread with your sales pitch.
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