Cooling system precautions
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Cooling system precautions
i'm looking for some advice or suggestions on what else i should buy, as i am upgrading my '88 GXL's cooling system, the only thing that i actually have in my hands at the moment is a new Koyo radiator. i'm not planning on installing it until i have the rest of the items i should replace at the same time as the radiator. with that said, i've been browsing the cooling section of mazdatrix and this is what i have so far in my basket...
two new alternator/water pump belts for the 2 sheave pulley
new thermostat
new upper and lower hoses
new hose clamps
that's pretty much it. i just installed a 10 blade fan today from an S5 with a new fan clutch also, until i get an Efan. what else should i consider buying? i'd like to get a new overflow bottle and a new hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle, however, mazdatrix doesn't have them. anyone able to tell me who does sell them. and maybe what else i should purchase? thanks
two new alternator/water pump belts for the 2 sheave pulley
new thermostat
new upper and lower hoses
new hose clamps
that's pretty much it. i just installed a 10 blade fan today from an S5 with a new fan clutch also, until i get an Efan. what else should i consider buying? i'd like to get a new overflow bottle and a new hose that runs from the radiator to the overflow bottle, however, mazdatrix doesn't have them. anyone able to tell me who does sell them. and maybe what else i should purchase? thanks
#2
I'll blow it up real good
iTrader: (1)
Use Evans coolant. A waterless coolant that has a higher boiling point and better cooling abilities which reduce internal hotspots.
Perhaps the biggest benefit of using it is that it runs at 0 psi which could help avoid coolant seal failures/problems.
Make sure you flush the whole system (including the heater core) before using it which you should do regardless whether or not you use Evans.
Make/route your own overflow tank hose.
Perhaps the biggest benefit of using it is that it runs at 0 psi which could help avoid coolant seal failures/problems.
Make sure you flush the whole system (including the heater core) before using it which you should do regardless whether or not you use Evans.
Make/route your own overflow tank hose.
#3
Lives on the Forum
Don't forget about the heater hoses also- especially the left side hose under the oil filter pedestal. Might as well change 'em while you're changing hoses...
Also the coolant hoses up top if you want to go all-out...
Also the coolant hoses up top if you want to go all-out...
#5
Lives on the Forum
That's the third heater hose- it goes to the metal line that runs back towards the firewall, then another rubber heater hose (what I call the "right side hose") takes the coolant to the heater core. Then you have the infamous left side heater hose, the one that's always blowing on everybody, lol...
Then (on my car, at least) there are three smaller hoses up top- the rear housing-to-thermowax hose, the thermowax-to-BAC hose, and the BAC-to-water pump housing hose...
Then (on my car, at least) there are three smaller hoses up top- the rear housing-to-thermowax hose, the thermowax-to-BAC hose, and the BAC-to-water pump housing hose...
#6
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
new pressure cap also. I've changed every coolant hose on the engine. Do the rad hoses, heater hoses, waterpump to BAC, BAC to TB, and the coolant line under the UIM.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i'll take a look at those (the few heater hoses) tomorrow, i think i know which ones you guys are talking about. if they look like crap, i'll replace em.
thanks for the help!
thanks for the help!
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