Cooling problems (pics)
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Cooling problems (pics)
When I got home yesterday, I glanced at my Microtech hand controller and I noticed the water temp was at 104c. I looked at my Mechanical AutoMeter gauge and It said 190F.
104c = 220F........ WTF
190F = 87.7c
So now I'm wondering if my autometer is not working properly, or maybe it's because it's reading from a different locaton. The radiator was steaming, so I think the MT is giving the correct reading.
Does my water overflow tank cap need to be vented? (I read that the factory cap has a little hole in it). I'm also using an Advanced Auto parts T-stat, do I really need a Mazda OEM?
I think I need a real fan shroud to suck the heat from the entire core, but I don't think that's my only problem.
I'm going to try a new radiator cap (13 or 16lbs). Maybe mine is no good from sitting for 2 years
104c = 220F........ WTF
190F = 87.7c
So now I'm wondering if my autometer is not working properly, or maybe it's because it's reading from a different locaton. The radiator was steaming, so I think the MT is giving the correct reading.
Does my water overflow tank cap need to be vented? (I read that the factory cap has a little hole in it). I'm also using an Advanced Auto parts T-stat, do I really need a Mazda OEM?
I think I need a real fan shroud to suck the heat from the entire core, but I don't think that's my only problem.
I'm going to try a new radiator cap (13 or 16lbs). Maybe mine is no good from sitting for 2 years
#3
spending too much money..
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i'm going to say this. Autometer is not called guess o meter for nothing. Also 104 is really not that hot for stock settings however what is your microtech set to? i would trust what my microtech says over what my guess o meter says. Just my .o2
edit: also your rad shroud as bling as it is, could really use some inprovements.
edit: also your rad shroud as bling as it is, could really use some inprovements.
#5
spending too much money..
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no the factory has a fill cap and a preasure cap. In other words one has a cap with a spring on it and the other one doesn't. has your car been running cooler up until today? or has it always ran like this?
edit: I'm retarded for not seeing your original post about the rad shroud
edit: I'm retarded for not seeing your original post about the rad shroud
#6
1308ccs of awesome
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I don't think you really need a shroud... due to the way your e-fan is mounted (right on top of the radiator) I don't think a shroud would really do anything. not unless you mount your efan to the shroud instead of the rad. if anything your fan shroud right now is worse than not having anything there at all.
and yeah, I would get a guage that's a lot more acurate. I have a defi and it's really nice. but it's probably more of a sensor location issue than a guage issue. your MT one is taking the temp right after it goes through the hot engine.
and yeah, I would get a guage that's a lot more acurate. I have a defi and it's really nice. but it's probably more of a sensor location issue than a guage issue. your MT one is taking the temp right after it goes through the hot engine.
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Originally Posted by luiml73
When I got home yesterday, I glanced at my Microtech hand controller and I noticed the water temp was at 104c. I looked at my Mechanical AutoMeter gauge and It said 190F.
104c = 220F........ WTF
190F = 87.7c
So now I'm wondering if my autometer is not working properly, or maybe it's because it's reading from a different locaton. The radiator was steaming, so I think the MT is giving the correct reading.
104c = 220F........ WTF
190F = 87.7c
So now I'm wondering if my autometer is not working properly, or maybe it's because it's reading from a different locaton. The radiator was steaming, so I think the MT is giving the correct reading.
Does my water overflow tank cap need to be vented? (I read that the factory cap has a little hole in it).
I'm also using an Advanced Auto parts T-stat, do I really need a Mazda OEM?
Lose that fan shroud, it won't be doing anything at all.
Originally Posted by rick_tj
The coolant goes in cool at the neck, and is likely quite warm at the back of the block.
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Are you using the right sender for the AutoMeter guage?
Is a radiator cap from Advanced good enough, or is that also junk?
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Originally Posted by porsche4786
I think the main problem here is that YOUR ENGINE BAY IS WAY TOOO CLEAN!!
All this Bling! bullshit, and the damn car runs hot
Hater, I'll buy all the OEM stuff on Friday, I think I'm also going to get this:
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT591_pg2.htm
Maybe I have air in my system.
Last edited by luiml73; 05-15-06 at 10:28 PM.
#13
just dont care.
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luim73,
on the back of the t-stat housing is probably going to be the best measure of how hot the engine is. however, i have my greddy temp gauge installed in the rear iron (where the stock gauge sending unit is) and it reads almost the exact same as my haltech; there is maybe a 3*F difference at most...
i would definitely go by what the MT is telling you.
on the back of the t-stat housing is probably going to be the best measure of how hot the engine is. however, i have my greddy temp gauge installed in the rear iron (where the stock gauge sending unit is) and it reads almost the exact same as my haltech; there is maybe a 3*F difference at most...
i would definitely go by what the MT is telling you.
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
It has an short overflow hose. Air has to be able to get in and out as the water level changes.
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Originally Posted by luiml73
All this Bling! bullshit, and the damn car runs hot
Hater, I'll buy all the OEM stuff on Friday, I think I'm also going to get this:
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT591_pg2.htm
Maybe I have air in my system.
Hater, I'll buy all the OEM stuff on Friday, I think I'm also going to get this:
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT591_pg2.htm
Maybe I have air in my system.
#16
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Originally Posted by Alex6969
the 86's overflow tank doesn't have an air vent on it, should this be an issue?
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