When I got home yesterday, I glanced at my Microtech hand controller and I noticed the water temp was at 104c. I looked at my Mechanical AutoMeter gauge and It said 190F.

104c = 220F........ WTF

190F = 87.7c

So now I'm wondering if my autometer is not working properly, or maybe it's because it's reading from a different locaton. The radiator was steaming, so I think the MT is giving the correct reading.





Does my water overflow tank cap need to be vented? (I read that the factory cap has a little hole in it). I'm also using an Advanced Auto parts T-stat, do I really need a Mazda OEM?



I think I need a real fan shroud to suck the heat from the entire core, but I don't think that's my only problem.




I'm going to try a new radiator cap (13 or 16lbs). Maybe mine is no good from sitting for 2 years

 

It could be from where your sensors are. The coolant goes in cool at the neck, and is likely quite warm at the back of the block.

 

i'm going to say this. Autometer is not called guess o meter for nothing. Also 104 is really not that hot for stock settings however what is your microtech set to? i would trust what my microtech says over what my guess o meter says. Just my .o2

edit: also your rad shroud as bling as it is, could really use some inprovements.

 

Yep! I'm ordering the fan shroud from summit this week.

So how about this overflow cap. Do the factory ones have a vent hole?

 

no the factory has a fill cap and a preasure cap. In other words one has a cap with a spring on it and the other one doesn't. has your car been running cooler up until today? or has it always ran like this?

edit: I'm retarded for not seeing your original post about the rad shroud

 

I don't think you really need a shroud... due to the way your e-fan is mounted (right on top of the radiator) I don't think a shroud would really do anything. not unless you mount your efan to the shroud instead of the rad. if anything your fan shroud right now is worse than not having anything there at all.

and yeah, I would get a guage that's a lot more acurate. I have a defi and it's really nice. but it's probably more of a sensor location issue than a guage issue. your MT one is taking the temp right after it goes through the hot engine.

 

The two locations should give different results but the location on the back of the water puimp should be hottest because that coolant has returned from the engine and is going to the radiator. Are you using the right sender for the AutoMeter guage?

It has an short overflow hose. Air has to be able to get in and out as the water level changes.

Yes you do!

Lose that fan shroud, it won't be doing anything at all.

Completely wrong.

 

I'm using the one that came with the gauge.




Is a radiator cap from Advanced good enough, or is that also junk?

 

I think the main problem here is that YOUR ENGINE BAY IS WAY TOOO CLEAN!!

 

get the caps from mazda! Ask me how i know

 

How...?

 

All this Bling! bullshit, and the damn car runs hot

Hater, I'll buy all the OEM stuff on Friday, I think I'm also going to get this:

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...CAT591_pg2.htm



Maybe I have air in my system.

 

luim73,

on the back of the t-stat housing is probably going to be the best measure of how hot the engine is. however, i have my greddy temp gauge installed in the rear iron (where the stock gauge sending unit is) and it reads almost the exact same as my haltech; there is maybe a 3*F difference at most...

i would definitely go by what the MT is telling you.

 

the 86's overflow tank doesn't have an air vent on it, should this be an issue?

 

How does that work?

 

If it's factory it will have an air bleed. Look for a small hole in the cap.