Ok. I called Racing beat and asked about their water pump pulley and they said since it slows down water pump rpm's to reduce cavitation at high rpm's, it is not recommended for street use? does anybody have some kind of Unorthodox, RB, rx7.com, or any performance pulley in their street driven car? I was wondering how much warmer the engine gets when revs are consistintly under the 4K region.

I want to put the RB pulley in even on my, street driven car. I have throught of a few solutions. To battle the heat being genterated at low rpms I would start w/ flushing the cooling system. Then change the old waterpump with a new one (my current one has 100K on it) then upgrade to a Koyo. Also, I bought a bottle of Redline's Water Wetter.

If this doesn't work then I'm planning to fab up some type of water injection system. My plan is to take out the windsheild wiper sprayers and use them to spray on the radiator. Ill just run down to Home Depots garden section and buy some of those mister things. Does the windshield water pump create enough pressure? Then fill the resivor with some distilled water so that there's no mineral build up. I was wondering if anybody has tried devising some type of water injection system, as they are popular in endurance and rally cars.

My last option is to buy the pulley and then only put it in the night before track days.

... or constanly drive above 5k on the streets

 

Why would you want this pully? It's only useful if the engine constantly is run above 5K or so.

 

i ... dont ... know.

 

because it forces me to think of better ways to cool the car at low rpms.

 

This pully produces no gain at all, but results in cooling problems on the street. Unless you spend all your time on the track, then don't bother.

 

alright then.

 

but still.... im interested in making a water injection system. i have not read many people trying it yet. have you?

 

Unless your car is a TII (your profile just indicates 1991) then don't bother. There's no reason to.

 

ok. with the stock pulley, if your revving over 5K, how much cavitation does it cause and how much does it increase engine temps?

 

If your are above 5K constantly, you will notice engine temps start to very slowly creep up...Actually, you won't because the S5 temp gauge sucks. Spend the money on an aftermarket water temp gauge.

 

please correct me if im wrong. i read that there are 2 major was that rotories die due to temperature. one way is the gradual overheating of the o-rings that crack over time as they get brittle, and coolant leaks in through the crack. the second way is that the rotor face gets so hot so fast that it warps and coolant begins to leak in through the gap.

now, do only turbos have to worry about this do to all the excess heat generated by the turbo? or do na have to worry to? i have an na. how do most na's die? or do they just become "tired engines" and lose power with age?

 

I have been trying to beat this overheating problem because of the huge greddy FMIC. You should try Evan coolant. It was developed for track racing and I will be going with it soon.

 

If the cooling system is functioning correctly, cooling should not be an issue. Many problems start when people beging to modify it (change pully, e-fan, remove shrouds, etc.) without understanding the consequences.

 

Aaron I will be running a Koyo factory shroud and clutch fan and most likely evans for highway temps with the greddy fmic

 

so then do NA's have to worry about heat issues or is that just reserved for TII's?