erevos

Greetings from Greece.

I own a FC3C Turbo II S5 with HKS TID and a lower temp thermostat (71C)
Its been like 15 days or so that my cooling fluid plastik tank is drained really fast!!!
I keep filling it up with cooling fluid but every time that i push the car a little bit the cooling fluid tank gets empty!!!!
I have no visual leakage as far as i can check.
Also i dont think that the cooling fluid goes inside the rotor chamber and burns because my car doesnt smoke at all.

Also the car doesnt consume cooling fluid if i drive it like a old man and shift up at 3-4K...

What can it be???
What should i check??

I thank you in advance.

PS:i tried to search the forum but i found nothing...maybe i dont use the right keywords...

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

It could just be leaking.

Try the coolant seal test.

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

I hear ya man, i'm having the exact same problem. I'm hoping its not the coolant seals...

GodSquadMandrake

Mine burns coolant and I don't see the smoke except on startup. Coolant burns white and not blue btw.

A good way to tell is just watch the exhaust on startup or give it a wiff. I can smell that mine is obviously coolant. It takes about 1,000-1,500 miles to burn up all the coolant in the reservoir jug for me if that gives you a reference of how bad my leak is. I don't drive my car that much so I don't worry about it though. The only way to fix it is to take the whole engine apart and i'd rather pour in a little antifreeze and water than rebuild the whole engine.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

With the car cold, take off the rad cap and then start the car. Look inside the cooling system and look for a steady stream of bubbles that increases when you rev the car. If such a thing can be seen, then it's a sure sign coolant seals are bad.

Another common cause of "missing coolant" is a pinhole leak between the rad cap and coolant bottle. The hose develops little leaks that allow vapor to squeeze out. Some coolant leaks are so small that any leakage only comes out as steam. A pressure test will isolate these but sometimes you can find them based on the crusty deposits left.

erevos

Thanx a lot for your replies.
My car burns the whole tank in about 40-50km drives...so i guess its a pretty high consumption...

What is the coolant seal test???
Is it the procedure that Aaron describes???

Also...i thought that coolant produces blue smoke and oil white...or is it the other way around???

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Yes, Aaron put up the test.

Yes, it's the other way around.

erevos

Ok i did the coolant test and i saw no bubbles!!!!
Also i park my car in my garage and i detect no leaks under the car when its parked over night.
So...the cooling fluid is escaping from somewhere else...
Can it be the water pump??
The cooling fluid dissapears when i drive the car fast and rev it up to 5-6k.Is this related to the problem somehow???

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As I mentioned before it sounds like a pinhole leak. Look around for deposits left when the coolant evaporates. A pressure test will also quickly find the leak. There are dye kits that you can add to your coolant and then use a UV light to find the leak. They work well...

erevos

I know what you mean Aaron...thanx for the info

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

my old NA engine failed the bubble-test (as in i saw a constant stream of bubbles), but it was due to a leak between the lower rad hose and the water pump. The bubbles tell you that there is a leak, but not necessarily that its a coolant seal.

erevos

I pressurised the water system and find out that there was leak at the water tube (neck) that goes into the engine (the same tube that the thermostat is located)...so i repleced it and now its ok...thanx again for your help

rolandofeld

yay! i love happy endings!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's why it's key to rev the engine during the test. If you rev the engine and the bubbles increase appropriately or the coolant violently bubbles over, it's a definite sigh of bad coolant seals.

Glad it was an easy fix.

erevos

An easy fix indeed...but not a cheap one...
The OEM mazda PLASTIC radiator neck that goes into the engine costs 63 euros!!!!!
63 euros for a piece of plastic!!!!!!!

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

I work at a major auto repair shop and as a rule we always include a "block test" when we inspect vehicles with cooling system problems, especially if the car was overheated. The block test involves taking a sample of the gases inside the radiator to check for combustion leaks from cylinder head gaskets (or in a rotary the coolant seals). The tool that is used looks like a clear plastic cylinder with a squeeze bulb at the top and a tapered rubber seal at the bottom that is placed at the filler neck opening at the radiator. You put a dark blue test fluid (available at Napa stores) into the tool and squeeze the suction bulb a few times (with the engine running) and if the fluid changes color from dark blue to a light green or even yellow, you have combustion gases from the coolant seals. This eliminates guesswork, as a few bubbles seen in the filler opening can also be from trapped air or cavitation from the water pump. This test can be done cheaply at most competent repair shops. The shop I work at performs a complete cooling system test for I think $22 which includes a pressure test, block test, dye test and radiator cap test.

erevos

Update...the car was also loosing coolant from the hose behind the radiator neck....the one that goes to the BAC valve....replaced it and everything is fine...