ok just did a turbo swap on my car.....engine is fully rebuilt running a microtech lt-8. now when i start the car the add coolant light come on and off....sometimes stays on for like 30 secs to a min. after about 5 mins it wont come on anymore.....car has plenty of coolant....temps are all fine......if i fill the filler neck up with coolant the add coolant light wont come on....but once i park the car it shoots the coolant out because there is way to much in the car........what can be causing this problem....car runs fine....its just annoying as **** for the first 5 mins

 

you have your overflow bottle on still?

 

There are bubbles or a leak in the cooling system.

The only way the light comes on, is if the sensor is not touching coolant (or a broken wire). If the sensor gets ground through the coolant touching it, the light does not come on.

If the car is shooting out coolant, either you have a bad coolant seal or a bad thermostat.

 

it only shoots out coolant if i fill the filler neck all the way up to keep the sensor from going off.....but if i do that then there is way to much coolant in the car so i shoots the rest out of the over flow bottle......the motor was just rebuilt....last weekend so there is no blown seals......car temps are fine..........i will get a new thermostat and see if that is the problem

 

there is no such thing as too much coolant in the system, you are not understanding how the cooling system works. in a proper system there should be no air in the cooling system whatsoever so somehow you are either building higher than 13PSI in the system(blown coolant seal), you have an external leak allowing the water level to drop(water on the ground), or you have a faulty radiator pressure cap which is allowing the water to be pushed out of the system too easily(into the overflow).

i could paint a picture with crayons but i think that description should work.

 

well there is nothing leaking on the ground....no indecation of a blown seal...as i said just fully rebuilt the motor.....i will go out and try a new radiator cap.....thanks for all the help guys

 

Just rebuilding the motor makes it more likely a seal is installed wrong, or missed a weak housing and you are getting coolant mixed with the combustion.

But yes, check the cap first.

.9 bar, not 1.3 bar cap by the way.

 

also be sure the caps are on correct, the pressure cap should be mounted where the overflow hose come from the engine/radiator. there is a number of variants in the system so the pressure cap could be mounted on the top filler or on the radiator itself, generally when the overflow comes directly from the engine there is no cap on the radiator though.

a flat cap will just allow the coolant to flow directly into the overflow so pay attention to how the caps are oriented.

 

Or just check your wiring... that wire seems to get brittle after all the years of being mounted on the Rad... so just check and make sure it's not a wiring issue..

You could just cut it off of the sender, then strip it back and ground it to the rad/chassis... and then you won't have to worry about that noise... EVER AGAIN.

 

Hehe, yeah, get rid of that SOB, I don't know why they put a coolant temperature sensor on our cars to begin with. It's easy to tell when it's too hot by all the white smoke pouring out from around the hood and behind the exhaust! Sounds like a waste of money to me.

 

Yeah, you might as well just rip out all the gauges too, hell you don't need them telling you how fast you are going or what your oil pressure is either right???

Disabling the sensor is about one of the stupidest things I have seen posted here today.

If you bust a heater hose under the hood (the one under the oil filter is a common one after 100K miles- and you'll probably never see it until it blows out), and your car dumps the coolant out, are you gonna know without a sensor and buzzer??? Because the coolant temp gauge won't show you anything is amiss when it is not submerged anymore.

I guess if fixing the car is less important than blowing your motor, yes you could cut off the sender, strip it back and ground it.

 

but it's annoying...


*sarcasm off*

 

God, I only wish there was some way to stop that horrible noise without defeating the switch. Hell, I'd pay the guy at Autozone $24.99 plus state and local sales tax if he had something right there in stock that would make that noise go away without the risk of screwing up my car!!! Right?

 

i had the same problem i fixed it by replacing the rad cap and the one on the engine

 

i had the same problem i fixed it by replacing the rad cap and the one on the engine...make sure you get the correct psi caps

 

well put on a new rad. cap......drove to work and back and light didnt come on.....so i guess its fixed now....i may be taking the car to KDR to get tuned so i will have Dave take a look at it

 

Good luck, I hope it works out for ya!