cloudlight69

my bleeder cap on my car is busted, it wont open at all. the coolant resevoir is full, and i add coolant everyday to try and quell that damn buzzing. but the buzzing doesnt stop. it keeps going and going and going. sometimes when i down shift or go into nuetral the buzzing will stop briefly, or when i hammer the brakes or am on a hill facing down the buzzer stops... i am assuming it is my sensor, being faulty, as there are no visible leaks and the car isnt heating up out of the ordinary. i just need someon to offer advice or an answer to what this problem could be? i thought it was air in the hoses, but there is no way the air hasn't settled after 3 weeks. PLEASE HELP!!!

cloudlight69

aswell, there are no leaks as far as i can tell, i visually inspected all the hoses and check under the car for coolant spots, but there are none. i was thinking that i might just buy a pressure release rad cap and run the car with the valve open for a few kliks to bleed the lines would this be recommended or will it do damage? please someone reply to this thread as it is a very big annoyance for me and my job requires me to drive for long periods of time. if i can fix this myself i would rather do that than pay the hundreds of dollars to have it chekced over and fixed.

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

is the coolant level dropping?

cloudlight69

it doenst seem like it. whe i top it off it always only takes like 1 or 2 oz. the resevoir is waaayyyy full. almost to the top. so there is no suction from that line... could be a problem? aswell, the car doesnt overheat, and i have been driving hard to try and work out the bubbles... the temp gauge always sits at about 1/3 the way up once warm.

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

check the line that goes from your cap to your overflow bottle that will casue conditions like you are experienceing.

cloudlight69

okay thank you i will chekc that right now and write back

cloudlight69

okay just went out and pulled the line to the overflow, and blew air through it to see if it was plugged, none of them are, and the coolant is full. when i start the car, she doesnt buzz right away, only once pressure has been put to the lines. and when i down shift or go into nuetral or stop facing down on a hill the buzzing sometimes stops....

Hepcat1920

I had my coolant buzzer going on and off intermittantly while driving, and it seemed like I was not losing any coolant, kept filling it up that 1/8" or so to keep the buzzer happy. I could not find any visible leaks--just might have been so small that it would evaporate off the housings or something right away. I had my upper and lower radiator hoses replaced and it has not gone off since. So perhaps you have just some old hoses like I did?

cloudlight69

just replaced the heater hoses... maybe i will see about replacing the upper and lower
is it cost effective and could i do it myself?

cloudlight69

ohyah and it isnt really htat intermittent. it is 98% of the time buzzing with a handful of seconds or so of sweet relief. i even stopped the car while running and got out to chekc and see. i could not smell any coolant burning off or see any steam from the engine bay

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

did you check that line for cracks or splits too.. (tho one from the radiator cap to the overflow bottle)

Hepcat1920

I could not smell anything either--that was the wierd part about it. I work Morrie's Mazda (in MN-yes I drive my FC year round), so I just had it done while I worked (also do not have a garage at the moment to work in, otherwise I would have tried to do it myself). If you are not afraid of draining your coolant and refilling it, and all that-I can not imagine it would be to difficult to do--they are just hoses.

cloudlight69

yes no crack no splits it is a g ood line

cloudlight69

is it dangerous to drive with the4 coolant as such?

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Can I hi-jack this thread because I have a similar problem? Buzzer (afternoon only) goes off while pushing the accelerator pedal. Back off of gas pedal, buzzer goes off. Coolant bled and full, new oil level sensor, and usually operate below 3K rpm.