beater1.3liter

I know there are tons of threads on the 2nd gen's coolant buzzer... Now my issue is kinda wierd...
At random times my coolant buzzer goes off.. some times for several minutes and sometimes for seconds. now the issue is.. the car has coolant topped off(all air out of the system) but it still comes on ...
the thing that confuses me is that I can unplug the sensor on the top of the radiator but that does nothing! no buzzer sounds.. shouldn't it be going off untill I ground it or it in the radiator full of coolant?

I also have issues with my warning light cluster... they only work then they want to. any one have any idea why the buzzer is still going off?

SDrotary-FC

maybe a bad sensor i have a old one you can try

Icemark

the buzzer can also come on for low oil.

If you unplugged the sensor, ground the wire and it is still buzzing you have low oil or a bad oil level sensor

gurgi08

i had the exact same probelm ...pissed the hell out of me !!! so i dook out my instrument cluster and ripped that damn buzzer out ... nice and peacefull now

Icemark

pretty stupied... why didn't you just fix the problem???

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you unplug the coolant level sensor in the top of the radiator it should go off continuously until it is grounded. i wonder if a cold solder joint in your cluster may not be causing some wierd issues. you can remove the cluster and remove the white back off of it and resolder the pins to the circuit board, if your clock is not working this is a good indication of this...

i have a spare sitting in front of me atm waiting for me to resolder, if you want it just reimburse me for what i paid for it($12 and S+H) and i will repair it and send it off to you.

Syonyk

And, 6 months from now, we'll be seeing a thread from you:
"OMG ENGINE OVERHEATED BAD! NEED REBUILD HELP!" when something leaks, you don't know about it, and you fry your engine.

I would say the huge "OH SNAP!" buzzer is probably the most important gauge on the car. Running the engine low on oil or coolant *will* damage it, very quickly.

-=Russ=-

beater1.3liter

wow thanks for all the help......as of now...I checked for the elevendyith billion time and its still full of coolant..... and I bled it with the little bleader on the radiator blah blah blah .... I grounded the wire that goes to the sensor and the buzzer still goes off.... I have a oil pressure gauge.. checked the oil and pressure (both fine) and my aftermarket coolant temp reads fine. so I dunno....

Also mark.... if the buzzer still goes off once the wire is grounded doesn't that mean that its in the wiring somewhere?
if any one has any more Ideas just let me know
..
PS would a bad cluster cause the buzzer to go off?
thanks again!

Icemark

NOT OIL PRESSURE!!!! OIL LEVEL!!!!!The level of the oil in the engine, tested while the engine is off by the oil dipstick.

Almost impossible for a bad cluster to set off the buzzer. If anything it would be the opposite. Bad cluster = no buzzer

beater1.3liter

right thats what I said ......................thus the I checked the oil and pressure not just oil pressure

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

ground the wire and cycle the key, the buzzer should not come on, just because you round it while it is buzzing doesn't mean it will stop it from going off immediately.

beater1.3liter

and something else I didn 't mention(I forgot) was the fact that the low coolant light goes off with the buzzer..so its not oil.

jhammons01

Rant alert!!! The following should only be read by those that agree with my terms

Guys, understand Two things are going back and forth.

First, the coolant thing. The only thing that works for me is to wait until the motor is hot and while running..... slowly open that bleeder valve (I usually wind up executing this task on the side of the freeway, thank you Mazda). Keep cranking it back until you see bubbles and steam vapors of coolant coming out. It should then stop bubbling and just coolant drips. This is only thing that stops mine. I then negotiate the best time to open the door and jump in and shut it before the 18 wheeler rips the door off. My tie usually gets caught in the door jam.

Second, That Buzzer IS REDICULOUS!!!! It is way too loud. When I need an alert, I don't need it to keep buzzing forever!! Maybe a buzzer that is lowered by Db or two. NOT in the TONE of F (like all car horns= scaring the **** of me) With out a reset/acknowledge button. Loud, Long, Does not really mean low coolant(just an air bubble), Rings in the same tone as a car horn, No way to stop it, Then there is the time when your just starting to get low on oil you turn left a little too fast and the buzzer goes off......but just for a second.....long enough to scare you cause you think somebody is honking at you, but not long enough for your eyes to get over to the cluster too see if it was coolant or oil........that's the one that I really love.

C'mon if you don't agree that at least 3 of these things are wrong with that buzzer, then you really drank a lot of the Mazda coolaid. Let me show you some land if Florida, take another sip. I find it funny that if anybody says anything against the buzzer they get jumped on.

Icemark, you could make a killing selling buzzer replacements. Something like a nice refreshing wind chime. Or something that you could load your own .wav files or Mp3 files into. anything but that f*****g buzzer.

Icemark

yeah I have replaced the buzzer with a smaller less 70's style warning beeper on a couple of FC gauge sets now.

And I doubt that anyone would take the serious engine damage soon warning that the Buzzer alerts you if they had how dry I am am or some other wav file.

NZConvertible

Then you can't be bleeding the system correctly when refilling it. If you follow the correct procedure (which is in the FSM) then you won't have air bubbles unless you have a leak. I've refilled my cooling system many times using the correct method and I've never heard the coolant warning once.

That's the funny thing about warning buzzers; they need to be loud enough for you to hear them no matter how much other noise the car is making. FC's didn't exactly have Lexus-like interior noise levels when stock, let alone after you've thrown on an under-muffled exhaust and chucked out all the noise insulation. Considering what you're being warned about, do you really think it would be wise to use a buzzer that doesn't offend your delicate ears but can't be heard past 3000rpm?

That doesn't matter. Even a small amount of air in the cooling system can have a big effect on its performance. There's no such thing as an "okay" air bubble; if you have one, you have a problem. The other point to remember is that the coolant warning system has a ten second delay built into it, so if you hear it the sensor has been exposed for over ten seconds. Does that sound like a something you should ignore?

I can't say I've ever mistaken the warning buzzer for anything other than what it is. Nor have I heard a car horn that sounds like that. It may have the same tone as a car horn, but that doesn't mean it actually sounds like one. If you were played the same F note on a piano, guitar and trumpet, would you be able to tell the difference between them, or would you think they all sounded like car horns?

Ah, yeah there is. Stop the damn car like you're supposed to! If the buzzer is sounding continuously and you continue to run the engine, you get what you deserve.

A little common sense should tell you that if this happens while cornering, it's highly unlikely to be the coolant warning, simply because of the shape of the radiator. The radiator level would have to be extremely low for g-forces to move the coolant away from the sensor, and hence would've sounded much earlier. There's also the time delay I mentioned before. Even so, it still only takes a moment to check both levels so I don't know why this bothers you so much.

Seriously, if the warning buzzer is going off long enough and often enough to make you this mad, then it's certainly not the car's fault. You're obviously not responsible enough to operate a rotary engine correctly...

Syonyk

I've had my coolant buzzer go off a few times, and every time it was low coolant (turns out I didn't clamp one of the hose clamps tightly enough after my rebuild, and then after I fixed that, the fill cap for the coolant was leaking... replaced that, and all has been good).

It *is* possible (though not terribly likely) for the sensor to go bad. If you're convinced it's the sensor, there are about 50 parts cars over in the "Parts for sale" section that would be glad to donate one.

As for quieting the buzzer, sorry, bad idea. If there's something important happening that could lead to rapid engine damage, I want to know. There have been threads from people who have *severely* overheated their engine (basically, warped everything and turned the entire engine into scrap) because they had disabled the coolant sensor and had a coolant line let go on the highway. Same thing with the oil sensor - checking your oil is great, but if an oil cooler line picks the highway to start leaking severely, I'd like to know.

-=Russ=-

sheldon

The buzzer is going off every 100 hundred miles or so after system bleed. Reservoir is full and there are no apparent leaks. Replaced radiator cap. Could it be that the O rings are shot and its time for a rebuild.

WhoDiddy6

iTrader: (9)

mine just started going off soon as i put the s5 n/a cluster in my s4 tII. the oil pressure is hooked up to a 52mm gauge and didn't go off with the s4 tii cluster. ideas?