For some reason my coolant buzzer is going nuts. The coolant resevoir is full, the radiator seems to be full also? Whats wrong? "Add Coolant"

 

is the probe clean? Possile air bubbles?

 

well if you are 100% sure the coolant is right full, look at the center top of the rad for a little black probe with a brown wire, if it is disconected or broken that is your buzzer. if its broken and you dont have a replacement ground the wire and the buzzer will stop

 

Let the radiator cool down and take the cap off to check the coolant level to be sure.

 

check the wire on the sensor

 

The reservoir has nothing to do with the coolant being full in the radiator. It only is a overflow area, for when the pressure is too high.

It sucks a minor amount of coolant back in, but only when the engine cools.

If you have air in the rad you will have the coolant buzzer. Bleed out the rad and top fill location.

 

Yeah, i checked both. the sensor is intact and i did a coolant flush just about 2 weeks ago. (with a machine) so there shouldn't be air bubbles?


it was kind of weird, when the buzzer was on, i gave it a decent amount of gas, and it turned off.

 

there's a thread on this in the archive

 

You have an air bubble. Cool the engine. Take off the radiator cap. Fill to full. Replace cap. Take off filler neck cap (the hose from the thermostat neck to the radiator... this is the highest point in the system). Fill to full. Replace cap. There is an "air bleed screw" on the left top side of the radiator... if you can't find it, look in the FSM. You don't have to unscrew it very much, but this helps you remove air from the system as well.

Did you replace the coolant recently or did the buzzer just start popping on? If you just replaced/flushed it... it's common to get an air bubble. If your buzzer just started popping on, you may be losing coolant. Find the leak before it finds you

Josh

 

Why is everyone so adament about letting your engine cool to take the cap off. Leave the engine running, yes running, and take off the cap. If you don't feel comfortable about doing it that way, let it cool. Take the cap off, run the engine, add coolant, water, etc.. As it is warming up, squeeze the upper radiator hose, fill some more. Open bleeder , put cap on and hold it down, don't tighten it. It will seal with pressure. When liquid comes out of bleeder, close bleeder down, take cap off, add more liquid. Now, open bleeder again, squeeze radiator hose gently, until fluid comes out, then fill again, close bleeder , and put cap back on. Now, here is the key: When your thermostat kicks in, open up your bleeder, and if liquid comes out immediately, your done. If not, leave bleeder open, take cap off, and add more liquid, and repeat. The problem that most people have is that fear of taking the cap off is gonna burn them. Yes, it will, if the engine IS NOT RUNNING. Common sense.

Not a lot of people will agree with me, but it has always worked for me, on any engine.

PEACE THE DOG

 

Just bought an 88 Conv. and experienced the coolant buzzer. Drove to work, 20mins later wanted to move the car and it wouldn't start. Put coolant in that afternoon and it started right up. 2 days later warming the car up in the morning and before I get in the car to leave I notice the buzzer and light are on again. I turn the car off open the cap over the thermostat, add coolant, go to turn the car on and it won't start again. Is there some sort of sensor that does that? If there is why won't it start after the radiator is full. I found a crack in the the neck where the bleeder valve is and will replace it my next day off, until then I fill the raidiator before warming the car up. Has anyone else come across such a problem? If so do you have any feedback?

 

I have an '88 Black vert that is now experiencing the dreaded "low coolant" buzzer. I had been playing around in the coolant system, and apparently created an air bubble. Now, since I broke, the "seal" the cap above the water pump, it now leaks fluid over the engine. I have checked the overflow tank and it is near capacity. I have used the air bleeder valve, each time that I have been in there, but it seems to be the radiator cap. It started doing the buzzer right after I opened the cap the first time. I keep trying to play with it, but I don't want my overflow tank to runneth over. Any ideas?

 

A.w.ankl.el It sounds like you are experiencing a combination of things. First, lets start with the car not wanting to start. This is a common problem with all fc's that is typically related to fuel injectors not being able to hold the pressure of fuel that is still in your lines after the car is shut off. So what happens is that the seals around these let the injectors leak fuel into the chambers causing major flooding. If this happens again, follow your nose to fuel odor. I have had this happen before in many 7's and i used to keep a spark plug wrench to take the plugs out and turn the motor over to let the fuel air out. But you might wanna consider new injectors.


Now to the infamous ''buzzer'' question. You have either got air in your water or your colant seals are going bad. Again i have owned many 7's that did this and lasted many more miles so dont freak out. There is no sensor that prohibits your car from starting buy having too much water. In all honesty your motor is going through what i like to call the ''over the hill'' change. And what i mean by that is, its just getting those unusual quirks that are associated with al 7's. Please keep in mind that your car is 18 yrs old and i would bet it probably has 100-150k miles on it. So this is all normal.

But you did good buy posting question on the forum. Where is Powder Springs? I am in Tallahassee and starting a S. georgia n. Florida club if you are interested. So far we have 7 cars of all gens. Just let me know and if you have any other questions dont hesitate. Peace.

 

I had the same problem after I drained and change the coolant in my car last year. It end up being some air bubbles in it eventually cleared up though, now it doesnt do it anymore!!

 

The easiest way to make the buzzere shut off is to rev the moyor to make the air pass. If driving, simply push the clutchin and give it a good rev. This should take care of it. Sometimes it takes awhile for the buzzer problem to go away as far as the air is concerned. But do not go crazy on this because its not that big of a deal. It will go away eventually.

 

i'm somewhat having the same problem. 88 turbo II. changed the coolant last night(did the whole bleeder thing, where coolant come's out of the bleeder). i pumped the hose and then put more coolant in( i repeated once more). it ran fine that night(no buzzer) and ran fine until tonight. now the buzzer is going off every so often while driving normally. no white smoke. i do hear bubbles when i check under the hood. did i bleed the coolant wrong? and the overflow tank is almost to the top now too. i just hope this isnt a coolant seal problem and the idle is between 1k-2k(very irratic). i need help!