Ok, I tell you the story I installed a S4 series 87 model T2 into my 91 na vert. Ok I cant get the damn thing to start and run more that 30 seconds. thats with puttinng fuel into the spark plug holes myself and cranking it. The fuel pump kicks on in the on position and I had to jumper it to do that. It only came on when I was trying to crank it, I didnt know if that was correct so i jumpered it. It is getting fire but no fuel.I had to wire up the ECU using both harness everthing is fine as far as know. If nobody canhelp I ambuying a microtech. But please try.
Brent

 

So will the car run more than 30 secs with the pump jumpered? I believe the pump should always run when the car is in the "ON" position when it is jumpered so you should check that. If not it seems like the pump is not getting power in the "ON" position, which would explain why it is getting fuel when cranking. Actually, does the engine get power when cranking when it is NOT jumpered?

 

If the car is getting fuel with the car cranking, but then the pump shutting off once started, check out your AFM. When the key is turned to "start", it bypasses the AFM and makes the fuel pump run, once released and the key is in the "on" position, the AFM takes over and has its own switch to keep the pump running.

Like asked above, does the car run with the yellow connector jumpered?

 

Just wanted to clarify:

Is the ECU from the 87 TII, or from the 91 N/A?

 

Yeh, from what I've heard, you need the ECU from the S4 Turbo engine, not the S5 NA, to be running.

 

Actually, you'd need a s5 TII AFM/Fuel pump (s4 pump on the N/A bracket will work), S5 TII pressure sensor, s5 tII ECU, s5 tII harness/injectors. Unless you replaced the dash harness, you can not use the s4 ecu's.

 

these are the reasons you don't use a s4 on a s5 engine. Swaps are hard enuff without this added headache.

 

yeah, I know the injectors were switched from/to high impendance to/from low impedance ones. Lots of issues like that.

 

Well, what harness/afm/pressure sensor/ecu are you running?

 

ok I am running everthing s4 t2, ecu, harness, pressure sensor, and I believe afm as lonf as know what the afm stands for. What does it stand for?

 

air flow meter. Talk about taking the EXTREME hard route. It sounds like the wiring for the fuel switch in the air flow meter isn't working properly.

 

I can change the dash harness if need be only as a last resort before purchasing a microtech or haltech. But what good would that do the I ve already wiredand spliced in the s4 wiring to the dash, I have both Mazda books, they helped out... the cars fuel pumped came on when I tried to crank it only... I thought it was supposed to come on when your ignition is in the on position so I jumpered it under the dash at the open circuit relay the black/white wire to the blue/green wire which run up to your fuel relay/resistor. The fuel pump the came on when the igition was in the on position. But still the fuel must not be entering the engine.

 

yeh I have the s4 afm in place, so the brown/wire that runs out to the afm must not be working right? But it is, there is a test connector right before the afm and as long as ground the furl pump comes on in the on position to. I did this test before jumpering the wires

 

Thanks rat, for taking the time to help me out I am appreciating this. I know I am taking the hard route, but I have complete S4 T2 car I bought for GREAT price to do this conversion and I had an extra T2 engine with less than 30,000 miles. With your guidance we might be able to figure this out!!! First I am going to remove the wiring harness again a remove all unessary wires. I removed all the selnoids and bull crap I didnt need. i dont have to be emissions tested and I ve got alot of goodies attached to this motor!!! just need some expert knowledge, Thanks man

 

what color is that wire inthe afm that is not working properly? So I can repair it...

 

There's a switch in the AFM that will cut fuel as well, this is incase your car catches on fire and stalls, it won't keep pumping gas into the fire. Also check your injector wiring, make sure they see +12V on both wires coming from them, they should be grounded when they are fired (so quick it's almost impossible to tell) But you can verify they work by removing them and tieing them onto the fuel rail, then pulling the CAS and turning it by hand, this will tell the injectors to fire and you should see fuel spray out of them. Good luck!

 

ok man I out the door to try this, Be back to let you know