2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Control arm issue

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Old May 20, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Control arm issue

Hey can anyone help me out, please. I need a ball joint for my 1990 Rx7 and I found a control arm on ebay for $50 but it's off of a 1986 so I was wondering if that will fit?
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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:09 PM
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nope. the s5's have non replaceable ball joints...you need to replace the whole control arm (unlike the s4)
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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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If you can swap out your control arms with ones from an s4 and make your life easier. I just replaced the ball joints on my s4 and it took less then an hour
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Old May 20, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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I am sure a search for control arms will get you your answers, I THINK that the s4 will fit on the s5 but like I said a search will help
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Old May 21, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by klaytoon16
Hey can anyone help me out, please. I need a ball joint for my 1990 Rx7 and I found a control arm on ebay for $50 but it's off of a 1986 so I was wondering if that will fit?
Early (86-88) 2nd gen front control arms will work on late (89-91) 2nd gen cars, but you'll also need to use 86-88 anti-sway bar end links. It would probably be smart to change both control arms at the same time.

Hot_Dog
90RX7 GXL
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Thanks a lot for your help guys. What ended up happening is I found a control arm from a 91 on ebay with a good ball joint and good price too ($60) so I got that and installed it couple days ago and got my safety Finally driving my car legally now :P
cheers.
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Old Jun 13, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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I would replace the ball joint boot and also repack the grease inside of the boot, and replace the clip. This would ensure that the ball joint lasts longer. If there is any play at all in the joint than I would replace it completely. But just repack and replace the boot will extend the life significantly and its cheap as crap to get the boot and retention clip.
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Old Jun 14, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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When I got the ball joint there was no play at all and yea that's what I did, I repacked it and changed the boot and the clip
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Old May 23, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by klaytoon16
When I got the ball joint there was no play at all and yea that's what I did, I repacked it and changed the boot and the clip
Yes I know this is an old thread, but are just new S5 ball joint dust cover boots and clips available from anyone? The Mazda dealership possibly? If so does anyone have part numbers?

TIA.
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Old Jul 2, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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I found the S5 front ball joint dust cover boots are Mazda p/n FC02-34-313

I ordered mine from Jim Ellis Mazda;

http://www.jimellismazdaatlanta.com/parts/
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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what if you have adjustable sway bar end links, will that work out???
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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The adjustable links should work with either control arm. I've never seen a vendor reference that a particular series of LCA was needed.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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how about where LCA attaches to the sway bar end link. that metal piece. is that replaceable as well?
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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Yes, on both S4 and S5 LCAs, that piece is bolted on and could be replaced if need be. I imagine that piece would be the same between the two, but I have never compared them.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Theres is a difference between the S4 ansd S5 endlink attachment points, being that the S5 and link is a good deal thicker than its S4 counterpart and, IIRC, the S5 part is non removable as its welded to the arm vs bolted to the arm like the S4's are, as the endlink bracket uses the same bolts to be held with as the balljoint assembly.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 09:21 AM
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Ah, yes you are correct, the brackets are completely different. My memory was a little hazy; I'd never had them side by side. The brackets on an S5 LCA are removable though.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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After reviewing pictures of the S5 LCA, it seems the bracket is both welded on and bolted. I cant see why mazda changed the arm design, other than the fact that you would have to replace the entire arm for the balljoint (more money spent at the dealer) vs just replacing a short stub without much time spent with the wheel off the car.
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