So a friend of mine, (EAGE 8 on the forum) is attempting to use a hybrid turbo.

This turbo consists of a Stock S5 turbine and housing, Stock S5 bearing housing, and Garrett T04 compressor and housing.

This poses a slight problem since the stock Wastegate actuator is bolted to the compressor housing. The T04 is both larger in diameter and wider.

Larger in diameter isn't such a big deal. I've bent the stock wastegate actuator to compensate for the angle, so the actuator rod won't bind on the little nub it hooks onto on the wastegate lever.

Width is an issue because if it is bolted to the T04 housing, at rest, it holds the wastegate open rather than shut.

Adjustment would need to be very minor. The actuator rod is flattened at the end and if I can drill through the flat portion where it starts to join to the round part, I can attach it to the wastegate lever there.

My other solution involved cutting the actuator rod in the middle and using a tube with setscrews to join the two pieces. This'll also make the wastegate actuator rod adjustable in length should the need arrise in the future.

Once I have the rod length issue solved, I will fabricate a bracket to hold it on the new compressor housing.



Jumping to a different problem of a similar nature...

He's using a stock cast iron exhaust manifold (With RB flange behind it to space it away from the engine, as the T04 hits stuff when it's too close.)

I need to drill through it to install EGT probes into each runner. Large hose clamps will hold the EGT probes in.

My problem with BOTH the manifold and the wastegate actuator rod is that I can not drill through either of them... I dulled a couple carbide (or is it Cobalt? I forget... Gold colored DeWalt bits that come in a yellow index, from Home Depot.)

Does anyone have suggestions for drilling through cast iron, and/or the wastegate actuator?

Also, cracks in the exhaust manifold, near the exhaust ports shouldn't hurt anything, should they? They look like hairline cracks, barely visible unless you look really close.

TIA.

 

ooo, this thread is about me

yeah, how does BNR do their wastegates? (this is not a BNR turbo, it's a bit bigger)

also does anyone ever used an HKS wastegate actuator? do you think that would work?


thanks guys

 

yeah, how does BNR do their wastegates?

When I was using internal WG Bryan at BNR had cut/welded the rod to make it line up and the correct length.


also does anyone ever used an HKS wastegate actuator? do you think that would work?

Too much $$. Would require as much work as stock one to work.

 

thanks

the HKS one says it's adjustable though I'll look into it somemore...

 

as far as drilling through cast iron, i have installed a few egt's myself. Just start with the smallest bit (cobalt hopefully) you have and make your way up. But your better off tapping the manifold for the probe fitting, that way you dont have to use hose clamps. If this doesnt work at all, you might think about just installing it on the downpipe.

 

I have a dual EGT gauge and I'm putting 2 probes in the manifold (one for each rotor) how would I seal/get the probe to stay in the manifold if I didn't use the hose clamps that the probe came welded into

 

I'd try to find a solution that allows you to screw in the sensor to a bung that's welded on to the manifold. You shouldn't need to use a spacer either. I had a hybrid turbo (not BNR) with a turbonetics t04 housing and I just grinded it down a little and it fit just fine. The wastegate actuator was also pretty simple, I just re-drilled the plate for the actuator and used one of the compressor housing bolts and re-attached it there. It lined up fine. You might be able to find a decent picture of it on my website under new turbo.

 

the egt probes aren't threaded though

and the stock waste gate deffinitly won't fit without either doing a lot of crap to the bracket or shortening the arm.

as for the spacer... the guy who sold it to me said it was necessary, so I think I'm just going to use it. I got it with the turbo so it can't hurt... if anything it moves everything further away so there is less heat (it's just a racing beat flange that looks like it would be used to make custom headers)

 

No, they're tapered though... We drill the hole so that it's large enough for the sensor tip to go in, but smaller than the taper. Then we tighten the clamp down so that it press fits the sensors into the holes.

Worst comes to wost, they sell a play-dough kinda stuff for patching mufflers. We use that.

I'm gonna try drilling again. I'm gonna start with an even smaller bit or go shopping for bits that have a flatter tip (135 deg) might bite into that iron a little better. I'm also going through all the machinists reference books I can get at work.

I don't think my boss would appreciate me throwing a cast iron manifold into the CNC machine, but I might be able to get it done with the Knee mill and a good end mill bit.

 

May even want to call racing beat and ask them what the easiest way to punch a hole in that flange would be.

 

The flange is just a 3/4 inch spacer to stop the T04 from hitting the engine. He's using a stock cast iron manifold.

 

I know, but I was under the impression that you wanted to tap the flange for the bungs, Which wouldn't be too bad of a location so long as there was clearance on the top or bottom for the wire.

 

that actually might be easier... I'll take a look at the flange.