Wankel7

Cold :

Front 80-80-80 and held 100 if we left the button in.
Rear 85-85-85 and held 105 if we left the button in.

Hot :

Front 85-85-85 and held 100 if we left the button in.
Rear 80-80-80 and held 91 if we left the button in.

So, that is all she wrote for that engine.

Not bad for 12k miles eh?

So, lifes a bitch then you die. Time to rebuild.

I wonder if anything is damaged in the engine since it has even bounces. Maybe just cracked apex seals? The problems with the engine were low power and hot start issues.

James

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

Hopefully we get to rebuild soon.




Santiago


"we can rebuild her.....we have the technology.......faster.......stronger......more stinky...."

reboot

dun dun dun

Wankel7

At the end of the compression festivites I plugged in my EFI fuse and looked at my SAFC to see what rpms the engine was turning at.

It peaked at 391 RPM but was more like 350 for the test. Brand new battery that was pushing 12.7-12.8 volts.

At least the battery runs strong!

James

Wankel7

Up ^

blacksailsxx

I just bought an engine 88 n/a, that i cant get to start. Its still under warranty, I'm going to be selling it soon. I paid paid 995 plus 175 for shipping on it. I would be willing to sell it for $800 though. If you dont feel like rebuilding, thats another option. its under warranty until the end of june, I bought it from ASAPmotors.com

Wankel7

Thanks anyway......but my S5 TII engine is done

OverDriven

So I'm not quite understanding...why do you think the engine is dead? If you leave the button in, that is the true compression. When using a gauge, you watch to make sure the needle hops are even. Thats the important part. Then you leave the button in and you have your true compression number. If you are just watching a gauge jump and you think that will tell you the compression, you are wrong. The needle doesn't even have time to jump up to the right pressure reading before the next cycle comes around. Here...read this.

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/comp.html

-Joe

Wankel7

I did read that artical. It just seems a little on the weak side when you leave the button out. So the only way to get the real deal numbers is to go to Mazda Eh?

James