2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

compression test :(

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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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From: MO
compression test :(

i just bought a compression tester to do a test while i find an afm to buy (because it went bad) .. and on a low charged battery.. it was..

front: 50-60-60 (somethin like that)
back: 30-30-60 (for sure that)

this was with the battery being low, i know this effects the compression and im not so worried about the front rotor, but the rear i am.. could this be carbon or am i screwed? should i just buy the afm and see how it runs? i dunno what to do!
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:38 PM
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was on a cold motor.. hasnt been ran in a week or so.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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those are both really low...a good engine should be 90+, in the 80s and below=ready to go
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:47 PM
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Did you

A: Make sure someone was holding the throttle open.
B: Make sure the engine was warm
C: Make sure the battery was fully charged

?????

Cause if you didnt, you can toss those numbers out the window, they arent reliable.
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:51 PM
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throttle was open.. engine wasnt warm.. battery is low.. i understand that will lower them.. but how could the rear be 30-30-60 everytime.. that has to mean something?
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:53 PM
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if u get this soon can u get on aim jrat?
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:56 PM
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Cant, I am at work...
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Old May 24, 2004 | 07:59 PM
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jrat - PM

any other input?
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Old May 24, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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2 low numbers and one higher almost always points to one bad apex seal. Even if they were all even though, when they are that low its a very bad sign. To give you an example, my TII gets about 105 psi all around on front and rear rotors. However, it depends on what kind of tester you used. If it was a conventional gauge tester and you just watched the needle jumps, then its probably not even close to accurate. The needle just doesn't have time to come up to the correct reading before the next compression begins. Mine only jumped to an even 35 psi on each compression. The real compression was obviously much higher.

-Joe
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Old May 24, 2004 | 09:45 PM
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if i have one cracked apex seal.. can someone estimate how long it will last before it goes? does anything specific make them go?
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Old May 24, 2004 | 09:52 PM
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Originally posted by J-Rat
Cant, I am at work...
Then quit posting on here and get your *** to work!
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Old May 25, 2004 | 05:55 PM
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Originally posted by imloggedin
if i have one cracked apex seal.. can someone estimate how long it will last before it goes? does anything specific make them go?
bump
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Old May 25, 2004 | 06:37 PM
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who the hell knows, we can't see what's on the inside, so we can only guess.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 07:30 AM
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From: MO
well guess then.. if its cracked.. can it just come off or does detonation need to be present to make it brake off?
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Old May 26, 2004 | 08:20 AM
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Originally posted by AE_Racer
those are both really low...a good engine should be 90+, in the 80s and below=ready to go
That depends on a full charge, and proper cranking speed. If it's cranking at a low RPM, then it's not going to have as good numbers.

Oh, and if the engine's warm, the numbers will be lower. So if that's on a cold motor, and if it was cranking at the right speed, they're pretty low.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 01:05 PM
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From: MO
Originally posted by imloggedin
well guess then.. if its cracked.. can it just come off or does detonation need to be present to make it brake off?
bump again
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