Complex Unflooding Procedure!
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Complex Unflooding Procedure!
Apart from my Add Coolant light going off, (Very Annoying). My 1989 GXL decided to flood on one of the best days of the year. (Saturday). I tried to reach my mechanic, unfortunately his shop was closed.
My only other help was this forum. I searched the forum and came up with links to 2 Unflooding Procedure, I ended up having to use the last resort, Complex Unflooding Procedure! After 11hrs of trying to start this car.
Complex Unflooding Procedure!
(Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 3-step Method have failed.
TOOLS
Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type (use natural engine oil instead)
Oil squirter, fluid bulb(like a baster), or funnel with hose
NGK spark plug set(if needed)
I followed the instructions which was, Place approximately one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF) into each of the bottom two spark plug holes.
That did not work, I tried for 6hrs, then I noticed it was only the top two spark plug that was getting flooded the most I decided to put motor oil (in place of the ATF) in the top plug holes as well, after 12hrs of horror the car Started! (Was I happy to hear that sound!)
However! when I took the car for a test drive the car has been driving the roughest I have ever felt. I am hearing noises under the hood, and the car drives like S*IT!
Now I'm scared to death, can someone tell me I did not kill my rotors!
And if I did not, what can I do to remove any excess oil from the rotors or make that RX pleasing to drive.
Thank you for taking the time to read!
My only other help was this forum. I searched the forum and came up with links to 2 Unflooding Procedure, I ended up having to use the last resort, Complex Unflooding Procedure! After 11hrs of trying to start this car.
Complex Unflooding Procedure!
(Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 3-step Method have failed.
TOOLS
Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type (use natural engine oil instead)
Oil squirter, fluid bulb(like a baster), or funnel with hose
NGK spark plug set(if needed)
I followed the instructions which was, Place approximately one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF) into each of the bottom two spark plug holes.
That did not work, I tried for 6hrs, then I noticed it was only the top two spark plug that was getting flooded the most I decided to put motor oil (in place of the ATF) in the top plug holes as well, after 12hrs of horror the car Started! (Was I happy to hear that sound!)
However! when I took the car for a test drive the car has been driving the roughest I have ever felt. I am hearing noises under the hood, and the car drives like S*IT!
Now I'm scared to death, can someone tell me I did not kill my rotors!
And if I did not, what can I do to remove any excess oil from the rotors or make that RX pleasing to drive.
Thank you for taking the time to read!
#5
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Second on the spark plug idea.
My 88 SE flooded on me really good last October and has been doing it every so often since then.
My plugs were so fouled out it was amazing the car started the first time at all. I keep a spare set in my storage compartments now, just in case.
My 88 SE flooded on me really good last October and has been doing it every so often since then.
My plugs were so fouled out it was amazing the car started the first time at all. I keep a spare set in my storage compartments now, just in case.
#6
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Ok! I live in montreal, Canada (I missed TO) and finding anything for the RX7 (except from the dealer) could be tough. I called around for the spark plugs and they cost CDN$20.00 each! however I can only get the bottom ones.
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
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#8
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rotary>piston Thank you! But no offence, the US is not a place I want to drive to right now. I use to look forward to the weekends to take my RX to the states, be it for Gas or Groceries, but now things has change, its not worth the hassel, anyways i'll pull the old ones tomorrow and try cleanning them hope that works.
#9
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after "fouling" plugs, wouldn't it be possible to avoid spending $40 on a set of plugs, and just get some good cleaner and soak the tips in them for a few, and brush the crap off with an old toothbrush?
#12
I called around for the spark plugs and they cost CDN$20.00 each!
#13
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dr0x, I live 10mins from a CT store they may carry NGK plugs but not the complete set. They may have the bottom ones not the top and vice versa.
But anyways, i'll call CT again tomorrow, if I don't get a new set i'll try cleaning the old set which still have about 50% of life.
It cranks the rotors fine. It just runs like S*IT! (You know, it feels like driving a car with a mixer of water and gas.) Hesitant.
Anyways, Thank You So much you generous RX7ers. You Rock! (sing) Zoom, Zoom, Zoom!!!
But anyways, i'll call CT again tomorrow, if I don't get a new set i'll try cleaning the old set which still have about 50% of life.
It cranks the rotors fine. It just runs like S*IT! (You know, it feels like driving a car with a mixer of water and gas.) Hesitant.
Anyways, Thank You So much you generous RX7ers. You Rock! (sing) Zoom, Zoom, Zoom!!!
#14
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Canadian Tire carries both plug types. They have to special order them. *Make* the guy at the parts counter look and he'll find it. I don't have any of my old receipts so I can't tell you the part numbers, but they **are** in the computer. You can order them in 2 packs and get a slight discount.
If you're so inclined, you can then take this price to a Mazda dealership and they'll very likely beat Crappy Tire's price. They did for me here. I can get a 4-pack of our plugs from the dealership for $39.90 plus tax = $45.88. The dealer's normal price here is $46.94 plus tax.
If you're so inclined, you can then take this price to a Mazda dealership and they'll very likely beat Crappy Tire's price. They did for me here. I can get a 4-pack of our plugs from the dealership for $39.90 plus tax = $45.88. The dealer's normal price here is $46.94 plus tax.
#17
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Originally posted by silverFC
flooding and over heating sounds like a bad motor
flooding and over heating sounds like a bad motor
He didn't say it was overheating - only that the light keeps going off. He may have a bad sensor or an air bubble...
#20
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Originally posted by silverFC
but it sounds like the problems of a **** motor
but it sounds like the problems of a **** motor
Unflooding shouldn't kill a motor. We don't know what happened when he was working on it. He may have bumped or broken or burnt out a sensor or cracked some vac hoses or something else may have happened.
You said you were hearing 'noises under the hood.' What did it/they sound like?
Could you describe the ruckus?
#21
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naw my engine is fucked and i have the same probs. but nothing w/ coolant did a comp check and the rear rotor has 2 pulces one at 75 and two at 20psi and it runs fine after 35k rpm but it idles like **** tuh tuh tuh tuh tuh tuh and taking off in 1st gear it stumbles till about 1.5k rpm and mine has a noise in the front cover tap tap tap tap tap tap what do u think ???
compression on rear rotor is 75-20-20 damn it
compression on rear rotor is 75-20-20 damn it
#22
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Put away your Daughters moms and dads the Black Knight has returned!
OK, so I changed the set of spark plugs, which I bought from Mazda, She fired up great and runs well, the noise under the hood has vanaished 95% (before the new plugs its sounded like a normal engine with bad pistons).
I donot hear the noise from inside like I use to with the bad spark plugs, but when I stick my head under the hood and rev up the engine, i'm almost certain I hear a clicking noise coming from the Catalyst Converter area.
However the car bucks a bit now at stop signs and it had a high rev. (The rev of a cold engine).
As for the Add coolant light, I briefly dealt with it this morning. (I pulled the sensor and found motor oil particles on the metal tip).
(How it got there? A mechanic who does'nt know S*HIT about rotaries worked on my car last year, drained the Rad in the same bin he use to do his oil changes and replaced the coolant back in the rad.)
So now the oil surfaces to the top and touches my sensor causing it to give a false reading. (This is my analysis).
Attention!
I have decided to flush my Radiator, but I can't seem to find my drain plug (on a 1989 GXL-non turbo).
Please tell me if this is the right procedure.
1. Let rad cool off and remove cap.
2. Remove sensor and insert water hose in rad
3. Leave water running until clear.
4 Insert new coolant until properly mix.
Thanks for your help.
Oh, keep in mind this is a car with An OMP issue. (Bad seal). will change soon.
OK, so I changed the set of spark plugs, which I bought from Mazda, She fired up great and runs well, the noise under the hood has vanaished 95% (before the new plugs its sounded like a normal engine with bad pistons).
I donot hear the noise from inside like I use to with the bad spark plugs, but when I stick my head under the hood and rev up the engine, i'm almost certain I hear a clicking noise coming from the Catalyst Converter area.
However the car bucks a bit now at stop signs and it had a high rev. (The rev of a cold engine).
As for the Add coolant light, I briefly dealt with it this morning. (I pulled the sensor and found motor oil particles on the metal tip).
(How it got there? A mechanic who does'nt know S*HIT about rotaries worked on my car last year, drained the Rad in the same bin he use to do his oil changes and replaced the coolant back in the rad.)
So now the oil surfaces to the top and touches my sensor causing it to give a false reading. (This is my analysis).
Attention!
I have decided to flush my Radiator, but I can't seem to find my drain plug (on a 1989 GXL-non turbo).
Please tell me if this is the right procedure.
1. Let rad cool off and remove cap.
2. Remove sensor and insert water hose in rad
3. Leave water running until clear.
4 Insert new coolant until properly mix.
Thanks for your help.
Oh, keep in mind this is a car with An OMP issue. (Bad seal). will change soon.
Last edited by netwed; 04-14-03 at 03:40 PM.
#24
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Originally posted by netwed
Ok! I live in montreal, Canada (I missed TO) and finding anything for the RX7 (except from the dealer) could be tough. I called around for the spark plugs and they cost CDN$20.00 each! however I can only get the bottom ones.
Any Ideas?
Ok! I live in montreal, Canada (I missed TO) and finding anything for the RX7 (except from the dealer) could be tough. I called around for the spark plugs and they cost CDN$20.00 each! however I can only get the bottom ones.
Any Ideas?
#25
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Drifter101-Try a Mazda Dealer before shopping around.
I got the Mazda spark plug kit for cnd$54.00
Napa had them for $80.00
I'm beginiing to think Mazda is not so expensive after all.
Btw, I found out I had an "Exhaust Leak" on top of all my problems. (Now I understand why my car felt so crapy a few days ago).
Exhaust Leak fixed!
Its like i'm breaking into her again. (I love my Rx).
I got the Mazda spark plug kit for cnd$54.00
Napa had them for $80.00
I'm beginiing to think Mazda is not so expensive after all.
Btw, I found out I had an "Exhaust Leak" on top of all my problems. (Now I understand why my car felt so crapy a few days ago).
Exhaust Leak fixed!
Its like i'm breaking into her again. (I love my Rx).
Last edited by netwed; 04-16-03 at 04:25 PM.
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