hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Was driving down the street and all of the sudden my car dies. I look at the under hood fuses and found that one of them the comp fuse blew. I went to the store got two more and went back to where it is and popped the new one in. I turned the car over and nothing happend so I went and looked at the fuse and the new one burned as well. I've searched and found a bunch of stuff but everyone says egi comp fuse but this is just the comp fuse and the egi fuse is below it. Anyways what does the comp fuse power? I have no emissions and no acv bac vavle witch is what I believe (read on other posts) is what the comp fuse powers. Is this correct? Anything else?

Thanks.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Probably pinched/shorted a wire with all the times you had your intake apart/back together.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol, no joke only problem is the only wires that are still around the manifold are the wires dangling from what used to be the rats nest. everything else is plugged in. Do you know what I should start checking to narrow my search down?

in other words would it be in the engine bay or near the ecu?

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

two ways to look for shorts.

1. Use a wiring diagram and a multimeter and get busy.

2. Hardwire across the fuse and look for smoke. Smoke = short..

I personally use method #1. But I have gotten frustrated and used method #2.

HAILERS

EGI COMP is the Black/White wire that feeds all those solenoids. Each solenoid has a black/white wire, thats the one I'm talking about. It passes thru the Main Relay.

ilike2eatricers

If it's not one thing it's another lol.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I had a similar experience. It turned out to be a short in the harness. I figured it out when I replaced it with another. I had just put a new engine in, and somewhere in the process pinched a wire in the middle of the harness. So, it is possible that could be the problem. I also used little 20amp fuses to test with until the short was gone.
Chris

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

thats a good idea because at 2.50 a piece thats a crap load of money to be thowing away everytime. Will 20 amp fuses do the trick? Won't they pop because it's not enough amps? ilike2eatricers, you ain't lyin' It's starting to get stupid but oh well. I'm probably just going to cut all those silenoid connectors at the harness just to get rid of them. Is there anything wrong with doing this? It's a hacked harness anyways that should be replaced but If I can help it won't. Hailers is there anything else that the 30amp fuse feeds besides the silenoids? Thanks. J-rat thanks for the reply, I have to get it out of these people driveway asap so if it comes down to it I'll use number 2

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I was blowing my main fuse, the 80 amp. So, it worked for me. Is the fuse you are speaking of in the main block? If so, that is a real small harness, if the problem lies there.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

got it Ended up being that peice of metal that comes of that bolt on the alternator that I guess holds wires in the back was hitting the water thermo sensor wire and cut a hole in it. After I did this it stoped blowing fuses and worked perfectly. Also saw that one of the black/white wires of the selinoid connectors was touching the block but after I removed it, it still was blowing the fuse until I fixed the water thermo wire. Anyways after those two things everything worked fine. I swear I owe all you guys!!! Maybe we can have a bbq down here one day and I'll get the keg and we can all do a bunch of keg stands lol.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

nevermind, it's something worse. I just tried driving again and the damn car cut off again. Looked at the freakin' 30 amp fuse and its fucked. I put another one in and with a little hessitation it starts up. I go to pull out of the parking lot and whamm! it dies. I'm ****** fed up I guess a new harness is in my future?