Comp diff mount vs. OEM diff mount
#1
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Comp diff mount vs. OEM diff mount
Ok I have begun to completely redue the entire suspension.. the last steps are to either put on a perfectly good OEM mount or put on a comp mount from mazdatrix..
I have redone ALL the bushings with solid mounts and urethane bushings my question is:
Is the comp diff mount that much better then the OEM mount or not?
This is on a turbo drivetrain and I am putting in an lsd plans for big power I just want to know for those who have used them is it worth the change? should I save the 100.00 and just use my current stock mount (I have 2 both look just fine)
any info would be great..
THX.
I have redone ALL the bushings with solid mounts and urethane bushings my question is:
Is the comp diff mount that much better then the OEM mount or not?
This is on a turbo drivetrain and I am putting in an lsd plans for big power I just want to know for those who have used them is it worth the change? should I save the 100.00 and just use my current stock mount (I have 2 both look just fine)
any info would be great..
THX.
#2
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Competition mounts (i.e. engine / trans / diff) are all made from "40% stiffer rubber".
The front diff mount does not have the front "counterweight" rubber piece on it.
-Ted
The front diff mount does not have the front "counterweight" rubber piece on it.
-Ted
#3
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right I figured it would be roughly 30-50% stiffer..
why do they not have the counterweight on it? will I need to put the stock counterweight on it or does it not use one?
and in yoru opinion do u think the diff mount is a weak point where the comp one should be used?
why do they not have the counterweight on it? will I need to put the stock counterweight on it or does it not use one?
and in yoru opinion do u think the diff mount is a weak point where the comp one should be used?
#4
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The OEM one sucks, and will always break, if your making more than stock power, or even if you are making stock power. They just don't last.
I made my own mount solid. sorry no pictures. basically a u bracket with a bolt washers, and a nut going through the center of a new mount..it works great.
Made ET's at the track got down quite abit..very nice, if you don't mind all the vibrations.
I made my own mount solid. sorry no pictures. basically a u bracket with a bolt washers, and a nut going through the center of a new mount..it works great.
Made ET's at the track got down quite abit..very nice, if you don't mind all the vibrations.
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For the amount of added performance vs the cost..its the only way to go..and it never breaks ever again!
also you can make a very solid trans mount with a 4" rubber freeze plug with removeable brass plates on either end, from a Diesel engine, they cost about $5 at any auto store, just grind the part down and it fits perfect..changing the 2 mounts got my time slips down .5 seconds in the quarter mile track, with no other changes.
I was running high 14's like 14.9 or so..then right down to 14.2 on street tires.
also you can make a very solid trans mount with a 4" rubber freeze plug with removeable brass plates on either end, from a Diesel engine, they cost about $5 at any auto store, just grind the part down and it fits perfect..changing the 2 mounts got my time slips down .5 seconds in the quarter mile track, with no other changes.
I was running high 14's like 14.9 or so..then right down to 14.2 on street tires.
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#8
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The competition one costs *less* than the softer stock one!
and in yoru opinion do u think the diff mount is a weak point where the comp one should be used?
It's a bad design, period.
I know guys who have killed the competition version of the front diff mount.
I used a bump stop on the rear diff pinion to all but eliminate this problem of breaking those stupid front diff mounts.
-Ted
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u have a pic of the bump stop u used? I am curious to know what u did..
So now if I buy the comp mount do I need the counterweight of the stock mount or not?
So now if I buy the comp mount do I need the counterweight of the stock mount or not?