Column ignition lock swapping.
#1
Column ignition lock swapping.
Ok on my TII some jackass tryied to remove the lock and broke the crap out of the thing. I have an S4 88 GXL with a fully functional lock and switch. Can I just use that one? I saw on mazdatrix that it has a different part number for them but I want to know if I can swap atleast the lock if not the switch and lock.
Santiago
PS_ I will get some pics later tonight of the mess they made.
Santiago
PS_ I will get some pics later tonight of the mess they made.
#4
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Was someone trying to steel it? If so was he to dumb to see the fuel cut switch (if that's what it is)
Anyways, you can use the 88's switch on the TII, there should be no difference. If you need one from a TII though I'ce got one
Anyways, you can use the 88's switch on the TII, there should be no difference. If you need one from a TII though I'ce got one
#5
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OK, unless you have more than one TII, and it's an S5, I take my answer back, I would stay within the series. But I'm not positibve if it would work.
Just put it on, can't hurt to much
Just put it on, can't hurt to much
#6
Ok I cant get the starter to turn over the engine. I am suspecting the switch here. I have the starter grounded pretty well its a 4guage wire that I attatched to the battery and the POS wire is on there. WHen I use a screw driver to turn the switch it doesn't even click.
I don't know whats up here.
I don't know whats up here.
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#8
Originally posted by Templeswain
driver to turn the switch it doesn't even click.
Doesn't the security system shut the starter down if the ignition is turned without the proper key
driver to turn the switch it doesn't even click.
Doesn't the security system shut the starter down if the ignition is turned without the proper key
#9
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How do I dissable it?
I do not know. I've never had to mess with it like that.
I go crosseyed looking at the shitty wiring diagrams in the FSM
But I suppose that if one were to bypass it, you would have to find out where the ignition circuit is and basically design a new path around the security system's lockout. I also suspect that the realay behind the trailing ignitrion coil has something to do with it.
Gives me a headache just thinking about it.
Hopefully someone else here knows.
#11
I will check the fuse box cover for that. In the mean time I need to know how the hell to get the LOCK part of iit off of my 88 GXL. It doesn't have a standard bolt or nut. Just these two circle peices of metal.
Help?
damn I am such a noob.
Santiago
Thanks for the help already given guys.
Help?
damn I am such a noob.
Santiago
Thanks for the help already given guys.
#12
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You know how you get those 2 nuts off??
With a chisel and a hammer! I'm not jokeing either, you have to take the chisel, and hammer in a groove, and then once it gets deep enough you hammer it to the direction that loosens it. Also I correct my self they a bolts not nuts.
That also works great on stripped/rounded bolts/nuts
With a chisel and a hammer! I'm not jokeing either, you have to take the chisel, and hammer in a groove, and then once it gets deep enough you hammer it to the direction that loosens it. Also I correct my self they a bolts not nuts.
That also works great on stripped/rounded bolts/nuts
#13
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Originally posted by 1987RX7guy
I will check the fuse box cover for that. In the mean time I need to know how the hell to get the LOCK part of iit off of my 88 GXL. It doesn't have a standard bolt or nut. Just these two circle peices of metal.
Help?
damn I am such a noob.
Santiago
Thanks for the help already given guys.
I will check the fuse box cover for that. In the mean time I need to know how the hell to get the LOCK part of iit off of my 88 GXL. It doesn't have a standard bolt or nut. Just these two circle peices of metal.
Help?
damn I am such a noob.
Santiago
Thanks for the help already given guys.
#15
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uh oh that sounds like rivits.
There NOT rivets, they are regular bolts with no hex head, or any other kind of head. For a reason, and that is theaft protection. Because when you take the ignition switch off, it alows you to turn the steering wheel with out the key, because the steering column lock is in the switch.
And I don't know if a screw driver will get those out, they are tourqued on there pretty good. It took me a good couple of minutes with hammer/chissel when I changed my switch.
#16
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I say sawzaw.
Alright, I realize you could do more damage with it. But I did construction for five years and that thing is one of my favorite tools for getting stuff out.
Alright, I realize you could do more damage with it. But I did construction for five years and that thing is one of my favorite tools for getting stuff out.
#21
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I used to do car alarms and remote starts for a living, I just put one is my vert. 2 weeks ago. There is no special circuit for not starting without the right key, at least not on our cars that were made when some people still thought neverland would be a cool place for the kids to go for the weekend. Even the GM V.A.T.S. "chip in the key" system is a joke and easy to get around anyway. Our ignition switch is just that, a rotary "switch" (no pun), it is normally turned by the back of the ignition lock when you turn the key so a screwdriver works the same. The "anti theft" part is the fact that the column is locked still by the ignition lock and the only way to remove the bolts is to drill them out or dremel and try to use a screwdriver. The bolts are specially designed to actually snap off the heads when they get tight so that NO ONE can ever use a tool to take them off again. I have done it a few times on cars with this type of lock and a drill is the quickest way, just drill out the wider head part until you can seperate the two halves off the column then when its off use pliers to remove the bolts the rest of the way. I heard you can buy those bolts from the dealer but if you are lazy like me you can just use regular metric bolts in their place, the only problem is anyone with a ratchet can easily remove your column lock IF HE KNOWS your situation. If you can keep quiet about it, or trust your freinds, or both, then no problem.
I hope this helps someone, my hands are tired from typing.
John
I hope this helps someone, my hands are tired from typing.
John
Last edited by JonEQuest; 12-19-03 at 11:07 PM.
#22
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Originally posted by JonEQuest
the only way to remove the bolts is to drill them out or dremel and try to use a screwdriver. The bolts are specially designed to actually snap off the heads when they get tight so that NO ONE can ever use a tool to take them off again.
the only way to remove the bolts is to drill them out or dremel and try to use a screwdriver. The bolts are specially designed to actually snap off the heads when they get tight so that NO ONE can ever use a tool to take them off again.
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