theory

iTrader: (5)

Car: 87 NA, 12lb flywheel (just recently installed)

This only happens within the first 5 mins after start up. Starts fine, idles ok (around 1k, sometimes a little erratic), when I drive, and come to a stop, after I push my clutch pedal in the rpms drop to about 500 and dies. I cankeep it alive if i give it some juice. After 5 mins it doesn't do this at all, idles fine at ~800 when I come to a stop.

Icemark

TPS is out of adjustment

theory

iTrader: (5)

I found a few procedures to adjust the TPS I'll give that a go, could the problem be the thermowax unit possibly as well?

theory

iTrader: (5)

Tested and adjusted TPS.

Before: Min was .76 and max was 4.55.
After: Min. of .95 and max of 4.55 still.

This adjustment cured the dying car problem.

However it caused other problems: now the car hunts between 600-1000 rpm upon first start-up, and while driving (on a cold motor) the motor cut out (hesitated and 2 times it wouldn't go past 1500 rpm).

Onced warmed up there seemed to be no more hesitations, cut-outs, and idled fairly smooth at ~700 rpm.

I will now try adjusting the idle screw and A/F ratio.

The instructions I read were as follows:

1. Jump initial set coupler
2. Turn the air adjusting screw until idl is 750 rpm
3. Turn the variable resistor to the position where idle is the highest
4. Turn the air adjust screw until idle is 750 rpm.
5. Turn the variable resistor to the left until idle reachs 730 rpm.
6. Turn air adjust screw until idle is 750 rpm

Question: Without a seperate Tach, is there another way to get a more accurate visual of the tach other then the stock gauge ( I'm sure I won't be able to see a diference between 750 and 730)?

Icemark

Cold surging is a classic example of the TPS set wrong.

Your meter may be off, or has bad connections when you were adjusting.

The fact that dieing on lift throttle is gone, suggests that you are close... just not there yet

theory

iTrader: (5)

I just bought the meter today so I could do these adjustments. The connectors did seem to have corrosion. I have to get some contact cleaner and try a better cleaning before adjusting again.

Is it common to just adjust TPS in these scenarios, or is it recommended to re-adjust the idle AFR as well?

theory

iTrader: (5)

Latest adjustments:

Min: 1.00
Max: 4.48

After I adjusted, I let it sit for a few hours to make sure it was cooled down. I started it up, it revved to 3k for about 15 seconds, dropped down to about 600 then back up to ~800 where it wobbled a bit. I drove after about 30 seconds from start-up and it didn't stall or hesitate once. I thought I fixed it...

Later on in the evening, after it cooled again, I turned the car on, and only let it sit for a few seconds before taking off, at my first stop sign it died on me. After that it didn't hesistate or die at all.

I'm thinking I should at least let it wam up for 30 seconds before I go. I don't think I should have to live like that so I''ll try and figure out what the deal is. Last year I didn't have this problem at all, after storage now all these problems...

Icemark

TPS might be going bad, but it sounds like you are still slightly off. On my old vert I ended up having to set the TPS by metering the wires at the ECU rather than at the TPS.

theory

iTrader: (5)

Is this the same idea: Trace back the two wires to the ecu, and just meter across those pins?

Icemark

Yep, but no need to trace. Just pull the FSM and see what pins the wires are at the ECU

theory

iTrader: (5)

I found Pin 2G to be the TPS pin. I'll have to do some more searching to find how the individual wires from the connector are wired in that area to meter resistance. Or I could just use voltage with the ignition in "on" instead of resistance? However I read somewhere resistance seems to be more accurate.

I hope this works...

theory

iTrader: (5)

I took the meter at Pin 2G and 2A. I read .94 at the ecu accross these 2 pins, where I read 1.00 at the sensor. So I up-d it up to 1.00 at the ecu.

I also checked my BAC and it read 12.5 ohms, the FSM says this should be between 10.7 and 12.3, it was't exactly warmed up though, by this time it had been cooling for nearly 2 hours. Not sure if the BAC being slightly out of spec can be contributing to this problem to.

theory

iTrader: (5)

I took it for a test drive, no symptons occured other then the usual very mild 3800 rpm hesitation every now and again.

This has usually beenthe case after adjustments, I guess the real test will be tomorrow morning.

After I got it nice and warm, the BAC read no lower then 14.6 ohms, which is even further then my previous 12.5. Maybe it's time for a replacement?

theory

iTrader: (5)

Results: Started fine this morning. Revved to 3k for 10-15 seconds, quickly dropped down to 1000 then back up to 1500 for a few more secondss, quickly dropped to 600 then back up to about 1000, didn't stall out, didn't die when I came to my first stop.

1 slight cold surge occured after nearly 15 minuts of city driving. I think I'm almost there, however I'm not sure how much further I can go without completely replacing the TPS.

well uhhh

as far as the bac, i know the book says what it does but i have found that around10-20 is ok. You just dont want it to be wide open, or read off the charts.

theory

iTrader: (5)

Update:

I've been testing and tuning the past few days. I've got the car almost running perfect.

It still dies when I come to a stop if I don't le it warm up for 30-40 secs or so. It does idle on its own very well, doesn't die at start-up, the only issue is when I come to a stop within 30 seconds of startup.

The TPS was adjusted at the ECU to 1.00. Not sure where to go next.