flubyux2

when my 88 SE is cold, and i first start it up, there is about a 10% chance itll do the correct 3000 rpm start up procedure. and when it does do it right, itll drop down to 1500 after the normal time, then slowly idle down to 750.

BUT

most of time, it wont go to 3K. itll cough and sputter, and move up to about 1500, and itll stumble and sputter for 5 seconds, and then smooth out to normal. and then itll stay at 1500, till it warms up and idles down to 750.

also, i dont know if this has any relation to the cold start up. but i seem to have a rough idle when its warm and at a stop. it doesnt pop or sputter, or fluctuate RPM's at idle...its just noticably rough.
any ideas?


chris

Audiofight

I have the same start-up procedure.

MY 88 SE will sputter and puke for about 5 seconds before it smooths out and idles at 1500 when cold. Is that normal? But, it only does it once in a while. Sometimes it will stick at 3k and not idle down until I get down the road a little bit.

I don't have the rough warm running problems. Once my car warms up, it pulls great and runs great.

I hope someone can solve our problem with the cold idle.

flubyux2

Audioflight: when your idle goes up to 3000 rpm, its not supposed to come down right away. its supposed to stay there for 30 seconds, then drop down to 1500, and then slowly lower as it warms up finally settling at 850-750 rpm.

someone help with the cold sputtering. me no likey.

chris

Scott 89t2

just wondering. do you 90% of the time start the car in gear and 10% in"N" ?? cause starting the car while in gear bypasses the cold start up.

the cold start up is a joke, I'll be removing my soon. reving a dead cold engine to 3k can't be good. the only reason it is there is to warm the cats up faster for less emissions

flubyux2

Scott, i NEVER start my car in gear. i know that starting it in gear is supposed to disarm the 3000 rpm start up.

are you for SURE when you say that the 3k start up is just to light off the cats? cuz if thats the sole reason for it, i dont need it...if you know what i mean. it would be nice to tune DOWN the 3k start up, change the fast idle to a nice 2000 or 1500. that should cause less wear. but, i dont liek the sputtering when it first catches when it spins up to about 2k, cuz after it peaks, and revs back down, it will STALL OUT if i dont tap the gass. i hate that, and i want to know how to fix it.

chris

Audiofight

In order to totally disable the rev-up feature for the cats, there is a sensor near the bottom of the radiator that controls it.

It will soon be yanked out of my car as well.

I read someplace that a small leaking vacuum line will cause idle problems. Not sure what hoses to check, but I will be checking/replacing all my hoses over the winter. My baby is getting alot of mechanical/preventative/body maintenance this winter.

[bnd]

haha, two months ago i spent an hour searching for that damn plug. then i remembered the previous owner replaced the radiator!! DOPE!!! *smacks forehead*

blipping the throttle also bypasses the AWS.

HAILERS

86-88 pulling the wires on the temp sw on the bottom of the radiator not only disables the 17 second 3000 rpm start up, it also makes the relief solenoid for the acv ineffective. Might just pull the plug off the air bypass solenoid valve, located just aft of the oil filler. Barrel shaped outfit. That way you keep the function of the relief solenoid and acv.

flubyux2

ok, so thats how i can disable the 3k start up. but, how can i fix my cold-start sputtering?

it sputters pretty bad as it idles up to 1500, 2000, or 3000 once it peaks out at one of those RPM's it still sputters. after like 5 to 10 seconds, it stops, and smooths out. but ive noticed that, every time it does that, i have Also turned the ignition key all the way to start w/o pausing at the ON position.

i realized last night: what if, my injector pintles arent seating properrly, allowing fuel to seep out, and air to possibly invade the fuel circuit. and also, fully depressurizing the fuel system over long periods of time. and with out me pausing at the "ON' position on the ignition before i "STart" it, the Fuel pump does have enuf time to prime and re-pressurize the fuel system. so now im trying to start the car w/ a depressurize fuel line. does anything know if this would be the cause of the sputtering that happens at the first 5-10 seconds of start up?

ive noticed that it doesnt really ever sputter if its warm, or has been started previously that day. it only sputters after sitting overnight, or longer. and also, occasionally, my car floods out. so i KNOW my injectors are dirty.

HAILERS: whats my ACV releif solenoid for? if it has anything to do w/ cats, or the exhaust, i probably dont need it no more. check out my mods, and tell me if the solenoid is still active on my car.

let me know whats up

chris

btw; is there a way to adjust the 3k start up, down to only 2k? i like the cold start up feature, just not 3000 rpm's worth of start up, u know what i mean?

HAILERS

On a 88 (lets make that point clear, a 88) just turning the key to on does nothing at all for the fuel pump. It does not get power until the key is held to the start position. That act pulls in a relay that feeds 12v to the fuel pump. When you let go of the key and let it return from *start* that relay will drop out unless a micro switch in the air flow meter is making the fuel pump circuit. That micro switch is only made when the *door* in the afm is moved to the open position by the suction of the engine. Tell you what. There is a connector on the right hand strut tower(close to it anyway) that if jumpered with a piece of wire, bypasses the micro sw in the afm. If jumpered and the key is in the on position , then the pump is turning. Why not jumper this plug and see what happens? Before starting the car. Trust me, just turning the key to the on position prior to turning to start, does not activate the fuel pump, on a 86=88 model. Oh. The relief solenoid. No you don't need it to work if you have no cats. You'll never miss it unless you have to pass emissions, but I doubt you do if you removed the cats.

flubyux2

thanks bro.

on most of the other cars ive been around, the fuel pump primes itself when the key is turned to the On postion, and pumps for like 3-5 seconds. i didnt know if my car does the same or not.

do you think removing the ACV solenoid will help me at all, w/ my mods? or will it not make a diff? if it doesnt change anything for me, i think ill just save the trouble and leave it there. just INCASE i decide to put my cats back on.

do you have any thoughts on the sputtering when it first fires up? it does go away after several seconds, and smooths out.

HAILERS

Can't really help with the sputtering. Sounds a little like a fouled plug. Just for your peace of mind about the fuel pump do this. With a cold engine, not running, loosen the rear banjo bolt on the secondary fuel rail with a 19mm wrench. There might be some left over pressure on the rail but it should bleed off rapidly. When it does finaly bleed off, turn your key to the on position(not start). No fuel will spray. Now you will have no doubts about that. I'd leave the acv on the car. Does not hurt a thing unless you want more room in the bay. I run the Mazdatrix duals and leave the acv on along with the airpump. Not a racer here. The five or six lbs don't bother me and the miniscule hp drag of that air pump, ditto. I can see why someone would remove them to decrease weight or for a cleaner engine bay. FYI the relief solenoid for the acv is on the drivers side of the engine and has a blue connector. That solenoid activates a diaphram inside the acv on the passengers side to relieve air thru the acv exaust hose. The hose that exits the side of the acv and goes to a muffler hidden in the right front bumper area. On the sputtering, you've already changed your fuel filter along with the mesh filter on the end of the fuel pump already, have you not?

flubyux2

i did change the fuel filter about 600 miles ago. but, i didnt mess w/ the mesh filter at the fuel pump. whats that all about?

and what is the purpose of bleeding the secondary fuel rail pressure?

the sputtering COULD be bad plugs. but, they are newer plugs. i did however do the ATF trick w/ that set of plugs, but i have wire brushed them, and cleaned them off w/ brake cleaner. so they were pretty clean when i put them back in. however, they are platinum "highway" plugs. they are #9's. dont know if that makes a diff. ive heard from a few people that platinums arent the hot ticket...


chris

HAILERS

The idea on loosening the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel rail, was to show you that there is NO fuel pressure at all if you just turn the key to on(not start, just to on). That way you will realize that none of your problems are from turning the key to on for a few minutes prior to turning the key to start. You cannot flood that year car by just turning the key to on. I've run plat plugs. Can't tell any diff from regular plugs. I don't think one can just look at a plug an say its good or bad. I've had plugs that physicaly looked plenty good fine but the car was missing.I put in some new ones and wished I'd done it earlier. Just buy the lead plugs if your short on cash. You can run all day without trail plugs and you"ll never know they're disconnected.

flubyux2

on the fuel rail thing, ill take your word for it. i dont need to go under my hood to find out that the system doesnt prime when you turn on the key. i belive you.

i reckon ill see about gettin some new plugs, my current ones have gone thru some ****. and they could be shot.

thanks
chris