1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I was backing the car out of the garage and as I was about to put it in 1st gear the clutch went down and didnt come up. I tried pumping the clutch and checked the fluid and that was useless. So I bled the slave cylinder, nothing.

The pressure plate seems to be ok, I turned the car over in gear and it jumps like usual. So before I decide to take out the trans. What could be the issue? Is there any test I could run?

If I do have to remove the trans, do you have any tips? im going to be doing it in my garage with Hand Tools. Is any part of the task a 2-man job? Etc.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

If someone pushes the pedal does the slaves cylinder rod push out to move the fork? Most likely problems, are something in the hydrolic system or broken pivot ball for fork. I would lean towards the hydrolic system.

beachFC

iTrader: (13)

sometimes my clutch pedal only comes up about an inch.. i just stick my toes under it and pull it back, and then shift

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

the cylinder moved forward when I took it off the block. after re-installing it, it does seem to push the fork in. How hard is it to push in the fork by hand?

MrGoodnight

iTrader: (1)

Clutch hydraulics?

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

Replace both the slave and master cylinder. They can both be had for under 75 bucks total.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

I'm not in the position to throw money at my car, right now. Is there any way the slave can be diagnosed before I just buy one.

Could it be a throw-out bearing? How would i test that? Pivot-fork?

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

If you only replace one of the two, the other will go bad shortly thereafter. Jeezus... less than 75 dollars is throwing money at the car? Time for a civic.

1NSIGHT

iTrader: (3)

Dude. You dont know anything about me. Or the money Ive invested in this car. Ive done a full s4 to s5 turbo swap, KAAZ LSD, Haltech Platinum, lots of other stuff. Just because something is inexpensive to replace doesnt mean I want to replace it. IDK for sure if thats the real problem so why would just replace it. How often does this part fail?

Dont post unless you have something constructive to say.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

This guy is right.Maybe not Exact on price but on diagnosis.
The **** is like 20 years old..time for new.

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

I just looked... they're 20 bucks each at Oreilly.

Dont get offended, I wouldn't tell you to replace them both if I (and many before me) hadn't been in this exact situation before.

wheezle

iTrader: (2)

MIDNFauciUSN is correct in what he is telling you. The reality of it being something other than the hydraulics is very slim. More than likely they have worn out the seals around the pistons, thus not functioning correctly. Just replace the hydraulics and you should be driving afterwards.

Wheez

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

All correct. It is your clutch hydraulics, most likely the slave. Replace both slave and master now or be pulling the master later as well.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

in actuality it is likely just the master cylinder if the reservoir never went dry.

the slave can only leak externally and is easy to pinpoint. the master cylinder can bypass internally which causes a dead pedal.

both are simple to replace and bleed so i'm not sure why you all are so content on telling him to replace everything.. even though a master and slave are only about $50 combined. i personally only replace failed parts, when they fail, this also simplifies diagnostic processes. replacing everything won't necessarily cure any issue at all, we know the quality of remanufactured parts these days.

if i were to replace everything on my FC it would probably be less reliable than if i only replaced what it needed each time something failed. i've seen AFMs, alternators, starters, injectors, relays, etc, etc, etc not even work right out of the box.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

There ya go... I may stand corrected.

However I've had a master cylinder go, replaced it and the slave went two weeks later. I've heard the same with other people as well.... I think the piece of mind knowing that both were fixed is worth it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

in this case you're probably right, the slave is one of the least likely to be a faulty part out of the box and the seals do dry out over time. it is easy to replace though, even if you just replaced the master the day before.

bleeding doesn't even require 2 people, open the bleeder loosely and open the reservoir cap and let gravity do the work. be sure the pedal is not on the floor or it will cover the port to the slave.